Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I do have the vent system (Fuel standpipe assembly). I purchased a used canister assembly a few years back so I'll hook it up. Following BCZEE's setup I was going to just hook the two you have tee'd together to block them off, then take the middle one and return it to the Impala tank. However after seeing your picture I think I might go that route; the middle of the three vent lines is 3/8", the others are all 5/16. Maybe makes sense to just plug the 3/8 line since I only need one to return.

Have to buy 16' of 5/16 fuel line to get it all the way up to my charcoal canister; will pick this up @ autozone tomorrow; it goes in the far left port.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Got the 5/16 line today and installed up to the charcoal canister. But then I got sidetracked. Nothing to do w/the LS build, but I have a rusty frame w/one nasty hole. Yesterday a car nut neighbor came over and the first thing he noticed is my hole in the frame. I haven't done anything till now cuz I really need a new frame; I have two solid convertible frames at my folks house in AR. My plan is to get all this running and then a few years from now swap everything over to the replacement frame, once I have a shop built so I can take my sweet time on the frame build up.

But today I decided to cut the rot out and replace it. So I did. Don't think this is greatly stronger cuz the surrounding metal is thinner than I'd like, but at least it looks better.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

I had a line of some sort that ran the length of the car on the driver's side. While doing the new brakes I cut it short so as to put the new brake line in its place. When I then plugged that line completely, gas started to slowly drip from one of the fittings on the tank (I forget which outlet), when I unplugged it the dripping stopped. Guess I'll go buy some fuel line and reinstall that canister. Does 40 year old charcoal need to be replaced?

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I haven't looked for a replacement source yet, but my FSM suggests changing the charcoal every 12000miles or one year. But I bet the charcoal I have is 40 years old! If I find a source I'll probably replace it.


EDIT: Rockauto has them for $1.35! Guess my next order I'll add 2-3 and just replace every year
EDIT 2: Just reread your post; don't know about charcoal-I thought you were talking about the filter. I just replaced the filter and I'll wait to see if I have any smell issues from the car.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, just to update from a separate thread, I decided to stick w/the LS3 MAF since I had the tube made and I ordered one from rock auto; $56 shipped. I also ported the charcoal canister into the rubber bellows in front of the MAF, and I added the fresh air PCV line to the 90 deg rubber bellows before the throttle body. I also got all the nasty old fiberglass insulation from the top of the dash out and put in some peel-n-seel to sound deaden much cleaner (not as good, but much cheaper than dynamat).

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

More progress today; finished all the tranny wiring. Luckily for me my Kwikwire harness had a 3rd brake light wire already; I used that for the reverse lockout (the other connection goes to ground). Then I wired the b/u lights--harness had a b/u light power and then the line going to the lights. Useful link here on the tranny electrical connections:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/9592890-post3.html
I took an O/A torch to the gas filler neck and bent it so it would work in the Cutlass. The neck did kink when I bent it, but think it should fill just fine. I went ahead and just zip tied the top of the filler neck; may make some brackets later but this will work for now while I just get the car up and running.

I also got my LS3 MAF in from Rockauto. So fuel system is now done, air intake system done, and working thru remaining wiring circuits. Also need to finish the dash wiring and make a repair on a crack in the dash. Decided against using the replacement dash I bought; I'll sell it later. Unfortunately, life events will preclude progress for next couple of weeks. Will it run by 4th of July? I hope so...

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, still working on misc wiring circuits; finished the radio and amplifer today. The radio was the source of most of the spaghetti wiring I had under the dash before, so I'm happy to get it cleaned up. really only have the courtesy light/door jamb and the instruments left.

My CTS-V oil pan stuck down about 1/4" (maybe 3/8 at the oil drain) below my crossmember, so I welded a short piece of 1/2" round bar I had to the bottom of the crossmember. Should protect the oil pan fine.

I went to the pick and pull yesterday and got a bracket off of a Astro minivan to mount my relays. For now I've just got my ECU tie wrapped in foam behind the battery. I may try to get a better mount later, but its out of sight and out of mind for now; don't think I'll have any issues if I just leave it that way. Just a day or so away from trying to start it up. Anybody have a good checklist to go thru for the first time starting?

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well I found another snafu; I do need the factory oil pressure sensor to operate VVT:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...or-needed.html
So I put it back in, and tapped a mounting location in the oil cooling cover for my speedhut gauge sensor. Also working to shape some of the stock a/c ducts to fit my round connectors supplied by Classic Auto Air. Hoping the dash goes in later today and I can start checking out the electrical (I won't install it completely until I've checked everything works--it will loosely sit above the steering column I hope).

1989GTA

I think I will follow in your footsteps regarding the oil pressure sensor for the guage. I was wondering if there was enough meat in the cover to drill and tap for the guage. Looks like there is. Another option is to by the other style cover with the boss.

Is that the drivers side knock sensor in your photo. If it is I will add a wire to the harness at that location for the new oil pressure sensor.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I think the knock sensor is the wire you see to the left in the picture; the gauge you see is my speedhut temp sensor. I think I put details of that install earlier in the build; used a freezeplug location and welded an adapter into mount the sensor to it.

1989GTA

Gotcha. I think Autometer makes a M12 x 1.5mm adaptor with 1/8 pipe in the middle. I think I will use that for the water temp gauge sending unit.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Not as much progress as I'd like; got in a fight w/my DSE intermittent wiper system. Obviously the time to install this is now as the dash was off; I bought the chevelle kit since they didn't have a cutlass/442. So the mounting bracket they sent wouldn't work. What I thought would be a relatively simple bend and shape a metal bracket fought me for well over 4 hours (over a few days) w/me finally getting frustrated and the final time the hammer....went a few hundred blows on the bracket more than it should have!!

So went to Lowes and bought a piece of 1/2" rectangular tubing and used my band saw and sander to slowly shape a more precise fitting bracket to allow the **** to go thru the center of my hole (third pic shows it next to the side which wouldn't allow the **** to slip over). WElded on a washer to make sure enough material for the **** to go thru. Finally got it on about 3 more hours, and I'll finish hooking up any dash electricals on Saturday (God willing!) and hopefully check out all my wiring. Then maybe next week have the tuner delete vats and try and start!

The black momentary switch in final pic is for the wiper wash pump I had to add; DSE's kit doesn't have this.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I read that thread and really there is nothing saying you need an oil pressure signal to the ECU for the VVT to operate. You do need oil pressure, but not a sensor or ECU signal. The PWM signal to the actuator is controlled based on the cam position (not oil pressure). The PWM signal will affect how oil flows into the phaser and yes it will affect the pressure in the phaser, but nothing in the ECU's control loop would require it to have an oil pressure signal since it is not controlling based on pressure feedback., it is controlling based on position feedback.

Now there may be other reasons to have an oil pressure signal to the ECU, but I don't think that would prevent it from running correctly.

71403

The ECM will inhibit VVT operation if the oil pressure is outside of set boundries. It's in the calibration tables.

My guess GM knows it can't control the actuator reliably outside of certain pressure ranges.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

I don't think the round bar will not offer as much protection as it might initially seem. It might be of a little use if you run over something flexible that will not bounce back, but if you are traveling at any sort of speed faster than a slow idle you will simply hit item x, go ever item x, then item x will slam into the bottom for your oil pan (or, rather, your oil pan will slam onto the top of item x). To really protect an oil pan that hangs you need a plate under the whole thing.

I'm going to try to finish my wiring this weekend as well, had to go by radio shack to get the resistors for the tach speedhut didn't tell me I needed.
Also, here is a good post about the block off plates since it's being discussed. https://ls1tech.com/forums/15375723-post4.html

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

fighting a few gremlins. first was code 2138 on ecu once i powered up the car. Solved by switching two pins to the monte dbw pedal, see link here for details:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post16525154

Had a problem w/my fuel pump not operating, but I had the connector on backward, now have 58 psi. Racetronix helpful on their forum on Sunday.

Still have two electrical issues. Fighting a headlight switch prob w/parking lights on all the time, some discussion here:
http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tml#post428585

filling w/antifreeze now, and will prelube probably tonite and verify oil pressure gauge works. Don't think I'll try starting tonite; probably tomorrow.

Oh yes, my tuner did come out this a.m. to delete vats, secondary o2s, and did some baseline to get it ready to run (raised idle speed up a bit to 925 and some other things).

Crossing my fingers.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well a little discouraged tonite. Car turns over but won't start. Pulled a plug and verified I'm getting spark. I have 55 psi at the rail, although not sure how accurate the gauge is. Wondering if my injectors are stuck; don't know how long the LS3 intake I bought was sitting. Hmmm...

No codes. Anything I should look at in my scan tool to give me more clues?

1989GTA

I have read where sometimes you have to do the "delete VATS" a couple of times.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well I read that pouring gas in the intake would be a quick check; tried putting some gas thru my rubber bellows in front of the Throttle body but didn't get anything; however not sure how much vacuum it would be pulling and intake is pointed downward.

So read some more posts checking for injectors clogging. Jon @ PSIConversion says to pull fuel rail leaving injectors on and turn key to on; should see a preburst of some fuel:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15015180-post20.html

I did this and I had no fuel. I'll go to Autozone tomorrow and rent the noid light to check injector pulse (the next thing he said) and I'll get some seafoam to soak the injectors in all day. Maybe tomorrow nite?

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Checking for injector pulse with the noid lights is a good idea, using the other method you mentioned is a good way to start a fire if your injectors are pulsing and you happen to have a errant spark.