mikezohsix

I read somewhere, or remember from some conversation that you're not supposed to extend the ox sensor wires, and if you do, you're not supposed to solder the sense wire, you're supposed to crimp them. I guess it's ok to solder the heater wires.

Old wives tale or some truth to it?

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

Never heard anything either way, but you could just buy extensions and not mess with any of it.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

i do think the o2s run off of ohm load, so extending/soldering could effect them, but ive never looked deeply into it, could just be my reasoning+overhearing the same stuff you did

89 formula350

iTrader: (8)

ok guys the reason behind this "tail" is some cars more so back in the day used the sealed signal wire as a fresh air feed to the o2. this required no solder as this would fill the strands with solder and melt the insulation to the wires that "could" result in no or improper amount of air flow. nice clean crimping prevented this.

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

Extending the wires, or using o2 extension wires can cause a number or problems.

The easiest solution I've found is to run Bosch 13111 o2 sensors. They are designed for post cat use on C5 corvettes. They come with a 3 to 4' pigtail and the sensor heater wattage is higher, thus it works better in headers.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Never heard of this one. I do know O2 put out a high impedance voltage, not ohm load. That is why you need to use a digital multimeter with a high input impedance to accurately measure the output voltage. So don't know that I buy the increased wire resistance idea.

I also know that widebands need fresh air to the back of the sensor to work as a reference. I know this cause getting silicone on the outside of a wideband will ruin it. So there may be something to what 89formula350 says. I don't know if the same is true with narrow band O2's.

79LS1FOX

iTrader: (11)

I run extended harnesses on my o2 sensors, got them from Speartech who also did my harness and John never mentioned any issues with extending them.

flame

iTrader: (13)

Extend the wires on the harness that way when you need to replace the sensor you don't have to do it again.

modstang60

I have Bosch with the long harness, seems like it will work great.

89 formula350

iTrader: (8)

yes this was back way before wb were used in production cars. at least any I know of. this was often the case on imports in the 80's

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

If your extending on the sensor side (which I would recommend against) you basically need to crimp because most of the oxygen sensors use stainless steel wires.....which do not solder well, ask how I know LOL. If you extend the wiring harness side it is just regular copper wire which is easy to solder. If your running headers I would get the post cat C5 vette senders as they are already longer and back when I was looking into headers it seemed like a fair amount of people had issues with the stock sensors running to cold in headers.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

I have a GM service manual that says "Do not repair the wiring, the connector or the terminals. Replace the oxygen sensor if the pigtail wiring, the terminals or the connector is damaged. Proper oxygen sensor operation requires an external air reference. This external air reference is obtained by way of the oxygen sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt to repair the wires, the connectors or the terminals results in the obstruction of the air reference and degrades the oxygen sensor performance."

So even the heater wires are not supposed to be cut or soldered.

What it doesn't specify, is that just the wiring on the O2, or the whole engine harness?

Marky522

iTrader: (8)

We have a Winner!!!

Thats how it was taught in tech school 4 years ago, except none of the wires are supposed to be soldered.

To simplify how an 02 sensor operates it compares the exhaust gas to an outside source of air, less oxygen in the exhaust creates voltage.

Mark

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

I recommended the 13111 Bosch O2 sensors as well. I was told by a reputable tuner on these and other forums that the pigtail extensions or soldering/crimping can cause erroneous readings while tuning. Every day operation could be fine but they can make tuning a nightmare.

dwfronk

Sry not trying to jack the thread but my car has been throwing a code for sens 1 bank 2 and devlopped a very bad studder and loss of power un plug the o2 and code goes away and car runs fine. The cars harness was extended when I got it and its crimp not soder and I have pulled the harness all the way to top out of engine bay and everything looks fine. And it dose have LT'S.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Me personally I think the whole thing is a crock of ****..lol..

If you buy the Extensions you are paying for just a wire with 2 connectors that slip on and make just a "contact"..so instead of one connector on the circuit you now have 2, which is a resistance.
I've actually moved my wires in the Harness when I built it for the car, they come out ontop of the T56, right next to the Header Collectors. One side had to be shortened, the other lengthened. I used butt-connectors and crimped the **** out of them, taped them up and have no issues.

There may be a wire crossed..

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

^ This

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Harness wires are made of copper and can be cut, extended, soldered, then covered with heat shrink tubing. Makes for an effective reliable connection in all weather conditions over years of life. Even under winter salt driving.

O2 sensors use either chrome or nickle plated wires. These CANNOT effectively be soldered together no matter how hard you try and even with extreme heat.

If you don't believe me, honestly try soldering the o2 wires and you will see. If you do try to solder the 02's you will have problems later.

nissan 570sx

Weird, I extended my O2 wires and soldered them. They've been working fine so far. Thinking about it now it would have been a lot smarter to extend the harness side but oh well. If I ever do have problems I'll do that.