1967 GTO LQ4 (L92/LS3) swap
04-28-2014, 06:51 PM
#161
Launching!
Thread Starter
Gonna hit NE dragway on 5/7 with some drag radials. It'll be the first real test of the 8.2" Pontiac rear. I wouldn't be surprised if it breaks, but hopefully I get a decent run or two first.
04-29-2014, 08:13 AM
#162
TECH Fanatic
I had not seen any progress for a while, good to see that it is up and running. The big question is how does it drive? That is a real measure of whether it was worth it or not. Dyno charts, in my experience do not often adequately relate to the changes in driveability.
I finally got mine up and driving again after the dash/electronics update. I would qualify this as a success after finding out that the car could have burst into flame at any time due to the bad FP and the melted intank wiring. The new FP brought back the power I remembered and now all of the instruments work as advertised.
I finally got mine up and driving again after the dash/electronics update. I would qualify this as a success after finding out that the car could have burst into flame at any time due to the bad FP and the melted intank wiring. The new FP brought back the power I remembered and now all of the instruments work as advertised.
04-29-2014, 07:30 PM
#163
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Jeff, great looking car. It's great to see our kits in resto mods. How does it drive?
For rwhp numbers, you're right around where you should be at that boost level and that setup. Is it possible that there's some variability in the baseline and the boosted pull (different dyno, different weather, etc)? 420 n/a seems a little high for that setup.
Assuming your tune is dialed in, the other thing you could try is a GT9 cam. It's better suited to a boosted application.
For rwhp numbers, you're right around where you should be at that boost level and that setup. Is it possible that there's some variability in the baseline and the boosted pull (different dyno, different weather, etc)? 420 n/a seems a little high for that setup.
Assuming your tune is dialed in, the other thing you could try is a GT9 cam. It's better suited to a boosted application.
05-23-2014, 05:40 AM
#164
Launching!
Thread Starter
I had not seen any progress for a while, good to see that it is up and running. The big question is how does it drive? That is a real measure of whether it was worth it or not. Dyno charts, in my experience do not often adequately relate to the changes in driveability.
I finally got mine up and driving again after the dash/electronics update. I would qualify this as a success after finding out that the car could have burst into flame at any time due to the bad FP and the melted intank wiring. The new FP brought back the power I remembered and now all of the instruments work as advertised.
I finally got mine up and driving again after the dash/electronics update. I would qualify this as a success after finding out that the car could have burst into flame at any time due to the bad FP and the melted intank wiring. The new FP brought back the power I remembered and now all of the instruments work as advertised.
Anyway, driveability is about the same as N/A when not into the throttle. I credit my tuner for the great driveability though. He's really good at that part. After we tune for power, we take a ride in the car and check driveability. And it's a good thing we do that, because there's always a few tweaks to be made to power enrichment and timing to make the driveability good at low rpms.
05-23-2014, 05:44 AM
#165
Launching!
Thread Starter
Jeff, great looking car. It's great to see our kits in resto mods. How does it drive?
For rwhp numbers, you're right around where you should be at that boost level and that setup. Is it possible that there's some variability in the baseline and the boosted pull (different dyno, different weather, etc)? 420 n/a seems a little high for that setup.
Assuming your tune is dialed in, the other thing you could try is a GT9 cam. It's better suited to a boosted application.
For rwhp numbers, you're right around where you should be at that boost level and that setup. Is it possible that there's some variability in the baseline and the boosted pull (different dyno, different weather, etc)? 420 n/a seems a little high for that setup.
Assuming your tune is dialed in, the other thing you could try is a GT9 cam. It's better suited to a boosted application.
The car drives great! (See post above).
Same dyno, same tuner and I would definitely trust those numbers. Only variable is weather, and yes, weather was not ideal on the day we did the last session with the blower. Low pressure and high humidity.
I think the 420 was pretty accurate for the N/A setup, although I'll agree it's impressive for my setup. Trap speed was 113mph in a 3700lb car.
-Jeff
05-23-2014, 10:54 AM
#167
Launching!
Thread Starter
I did! 12.0 @ 121. Great mph, terrible ET. I had some minor traction and clutch issues. And my shifting of that TKO leaves a bit to be desired. I love the OD, but I miss my Muncie M21....I could powershift the hell out of that thing. I don't dare throw a powershift with this TKO....it's so friggin notchy....I'm lucky to put together 3 decent speed shifts and not miss.
Anyway, I'll head back soon after I upgrade my clutch to a McCleod RST twin disc and get some better drag radials. The car will easily run 11s, just needs those 2 improvements.....and a better driver!
Anyway, I'll head back soon after I upgrade my clutch to a McCleod RST twin disc and get some better drag radials. The car will easily run 11s, just needs those 2 improvements.....and a better driver!
05-23-2014, 10:59 AM
#168
On The Tree
Great MPH, big improvement over 113. The track prep at NED blows on Wed and Fridays. You need to go up and wait in line on a Saturday if you want to really have a chance at good ET.
So the tuning worked out ok then?
So the tuning worked out ok then?
06-03-2014, 06:07 AM
#170
Launching!
Thread Starter
11-18-2014, 02:59 PM
#173
Launching!
Thread Starter
Moser Ford 9" ordered. 3.70 ratio, 11" disc brakes.
I also ordered the Mcleod RST clutch because I just don't trust my Super Street Pro when launching hard on sticky tires (at the track).
I also ordered the Pace oil pan to replace my low hanging Hummer pan. It's served me well the last few years, but I'm sick of driving around always nervous about it. I have scraped it lightly a few times, so I've been lucky. It definitely hangs too low.
Final decision to make is headers. I think I've finally decided to upgrade even though I don't really like headers. But I think I'm leaving too much HP on the table with the blower and stock LS1 manifolds. And who doesn't want more HP! I really want (and need) 1 7/8" primaries, but noone makes a swap header for 64-67 A-bodies with 1 7/8" primaries. I'm considering the 68-72 A-body headers from Dougs, but I'm sure they will need tweaking. F-body headers are also an option.
Any other thoughts/opinions on headers?
Pics coming soon of parts (once I get them) and install. I know this post sucks without them. Sorry.
-Jeff
I also ordered the Mcleod RST clutch because I just don't trust my Super Street Pro when launching hard on sticky tires (at the track).
I also ordered the Pace oil pan to replace my low hanging Hummer pan. It's served me well the last few years, but I'm sick of driving around always nervous about it. I have scraped it lightly a few times, so I've been lucky. It definitely hangs too low.
Final decision to make is headers. I think I've finally decided to upgrade even though I don't really like headers. But I think I'm leaving too much HP on the table with the blower and stock LS1 manifolds. And who doesn't want more HP! I really want (and need) 1 7/8" primaries, but noone makes a swap header for 64-67 A-bodies with 1 7/8" primaries. I'm considering the 68-72 A-body headers from Dougs, but I'm sure they will need tweaking. F-body headers are also an option.
Any other thoughts/opinions on headers?
Pics coming soon of parts (once I get them) and install. I know this post sucks without them. Sorry.
-Jeff
Last edited by 67 goat; 11-20-2014 at 05:59 AM.
03-16-2015, 09:13 AM
#174
Launching!
Thread Starter
I've been picking away at the oil pan, clutch and 9" install most of the winter. Time is tight having 2 little kids and all the snow this winter in New England.
Anyway, oil pan is done and went better than expected. Was able to lift the motor up a foot or so and replace without much trouble. I disconnected the radiator lines and air intake, but left the wiring and P/S plumbing hooked up. Clearance is perfect. It's just above the engine cross member......perfect.
Clutch is done as well. No pics, but it's just a McCleod RST, so if you see one clutch install, you've seen them all I guess.
Old rear is out. I dry fit the new one and it fits nice. I just need to weld on some brake line retainers, then I'll send the housing out for powder coat. For some reason, I forgot to take pics of the new housing while I was fitting it.....idiot.
Anyway, here's the old one coming out......uneventful.
-Jeff
Anyway, oil pan is done and went better than expected. Was able to lift the motor up a foot or so and replace without much trouble. I disconnected the radiator lines and air intake, but left the wiring and P/S plumbing hooked up. Clearance is perfect. It's just above the engine cross member......perfect.
Clutch is done as well. No pics, but it's just a McCleod RST, so if you see one clutch install, you've seen them all I guess.
Old rear is out. I dry fit the new one and it fits nice. I just need to weld on some brake line retainers, then I'll send the housing out for powder coat. For some reason, I forgot to take pics of the new housing while I was fitting it.....idiot.
Anyway, here's the old one coming out......uneventful.
-Jeff
03-30-2015, 06:36 PM
#178
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starting a similar project Hi, Im starting a similar project. I'm using my 2000 Silverado as the donor car. not sure if the oil pan will work. who did you wind up buying your mount conversion kit from?
04-06-2015, 11:20 AM
#180
Launching!
Thread Starter
I didn't use a conversion kit. I'm running edelbrock adapter plates and chevelle motor mounts. They put the motor (bellhousing mounting surface most importantly) very close to the stock location so that my trans, crossmember and related components would end up in the same location. I didn't want to redo any previous fab work from my TKO install, which I did prior to swapping in the LSx.