1970 GTO project ideas
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 179
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From: Kansas City
1970 GTO project ideas In a couple weeks I will be pulling my father's 1970 gto from storage and begin the long and slow process of making it my own. Currently the car has been in storage for 20 yrs and the last time I checked it out the body only had one minor area of rust on the passenger rear quarter panel. My goals are:
1)Protouring
2)reliability (this won't be a DD but I want it to drive like one)
3)approx 25mpg
4)modern handling, braking, and ride quality
5)600+ hp/tq with forced induction on 91oct with no meth/n2o
6)LS powerplant with manual trans (5/6 speed)
Essentially I would like protouring style with the ride/power delivery of my current ctsv listed in my sig.
I've started doing some research but haven't found many protouring GTO builds. At this time I'm thinking my best option may be to find a 05/06 GTO donor car for the motor/trans/suspension/brakes/seats. I would love some advise or better yet a build sheet that includes part #'s, vendors, and price to help guide the build if someone has done something similiar. I will be looking at everything from motor, trans, wiring harness, headers, rearend, suspension, wheels/tires, interior updating.
More than likely I will end up selling the ctsv in my sig to fund the project and would like to find a setup that will be as fun to drive on the street.
I'm nearly sure it will end up with a poweradder, but this time I may be more apt to look into a twin turbo or larger PD blower for the build. (Would any of the TT kits out there have a chance of bolting up with only minor fabrication??)
Thanks guys. Let me know what you think.
1)Protouring
2)reliability (this won't be a DD but I want it to drive like one)
3)approx 25mpg
4)modern handling, braking, and ride quality
5)600+ hp/tq with forced induction on 91oct with no meth/n2o
6)LS powerplant with manual trans (5/6 speed)
Essentially I would like protouring style with the ride/power delivery of my current ctsv listed in my sig.
I've started doing some research but haven't found many protouring GTO builds. At this time I'm thinking my best option may be to find a 05/06 GTO donor car for the motor/trans/suspension/brakes/seats. I would love some advise or better yet a build sheet that includes part #'s, vendors, and price to help guide the build if someone has done something similiar. I will be looking at everything from motor, trans, wiring harness, headers, rearend, suspension, wheels/tires, interior updating.
More than likely I will end up selling the ctsv in my sig to fund the project and would like to find a setup that will be as fun to drive on the street.
I'm nearly sure it will end up with a poweradder, but this time I may be more apt to look into a twin turbo or larger PD blower for the build. (Would any of the TT kits out there have a chance of bolting up with only minor fabrication??)
Thanks guys. Let me know what you think.
Last edited by nlpy8b; Jun 1, 2011 at 10:21 AM.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 361
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From: South Florida
You have basically the same plan I have for my Lemans, needless to say I approve. Idk if you're a member over at Lateral-g.net but there is some great info over there about pro-touring style builds and maybe some info about a twin turbo kit for you. I want to go with a Kenne Bell kit on my LS motor eventually 
Be sure to keep us updated on your progress. You have my favorite year Goat btw
Check out Andrew's car if you havent already https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ion-2-0-a.html
Be sure to keep us updated on your progress. You have my favorite year Goat btw
Check out Andrew's car if you havent already https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ion-2-0-a.html
I'll be tearing my dad's '70 Judge apart this month to do more of a "muscle-touring" LSx build that we've been planning for several months. We're tentatively planning to use the same Maggie kit you have on your V... have you considered putting the Caddy closer to stock and using some of those goodies on the GTO?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
You have basically the same plan I have for my Lemans, needless to say I approve. Idk if you're a member over at Lateral-g.net but there is some great info over there about pro-touring style builds and maybe some info about a twin turbo kit for you. I want to go with a Kenne Bell kit on my LS motor eventually
Be sure to keep us updated on your progress. You have my favorite year Goat btw
Check out Andrew's car if you havent already https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ion-2-0-a.html
Be sure to keep us updated on your progress. You have my favorite year Goat btw
Check out Andrew's car if you havent already https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ion-2-0-a.html
The TT was just a thought due to my current build being maxed out at 520/520 with the mp112. I would put more thought into the whipple/kenne bell but haven't heard many good reviews from the LS crowd.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 179
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From: Kansas City
-Nick
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
I'll be tearing my dad's '70 Judge apart this month to do more of a "muscle-touring" LSx build that we've been planning for several months. We're tentatively planning to use the same Maggie kit you have on your V... have you considered putting the Caddy closer to stock and using some of those goodies on the GTO?
That being said it would probably be much easier to drop another LS6/2 into my caddy and sell it and pull my current setup out of the caddy and drop into the GTO until I could forge it and go with a bigger blower or TT kit. Hmmmm........
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On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 171
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From: granville ma
I've had a couple of GTO converts. the first was a 68 and the second was a 70 with power everything and a 455 HO. Wish I hadn't sold it.
If your dad's car was decent when he put it away, I hate to say this, and I'm sure I'll hear plenty back, but you should not mod the car beyond some basic bolt ons. Find out what the car is worth as it sits, and what it would be worth if you put the same time and money into keeping basically stock. You might be surprised.
Do that as a project, or do a lemans like someone said above. Don't mod that car, it'll be worth real money if you keep it stock.
mike
If your dad's car was decent when he put it away, I hate to say this, and I'm sure I'll hear plenty back, but you should not mod the car beyond some basic bolt ons. Find out what the car is worth as it sits, and what it would be worth if you put the same time and money into keeping basically stock. You might be surprised.
Do that as a project, or do a lemans like someone said above. Don't mod that car, it'll be worth real money if you keep it stock.
mike
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 179
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From: Kansas City
I think I nearly found what I was looking for at the end of one of the links in your signature. Essentially a list of what componets have been used in the past so I can start checking prices.
Since you have been through this process twice is there anything from that componets list that you would change and do differently (obviously besides the 502 BBC that was listed in that initial build)? Refering to wiring harness, headers, suspension, brakes, ect?
I wont mind spending a little extra to get the right components that are well made and are sure to work together the first time around. I guess what I'm saying is I dont want to be buying parts that will have to re-buy due to clearance issues and incompatability of parts or to upgrade shortly after the build. I would like to do it right the first time.
Last edited by nlpy8b; Jun 8, 2011 at 07:23 AM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
I've had a couple of GTO converts. the first was a 68 and the second was a 70 with power everything and a 455 HO. Wish I hadn't sold it.
If your dad's car was decent when he put it away, I hate to say this, and I'm sure I'll hear plenty back, but you should not mod the car beyond some basic bolt ons. Find out what the car is worth as it sits, and what it would be worth if you put the same time and money into keeping basically stock. You might be surprised.
Do that as a project, or do a lemans like someone said above. Don't mod that car, it'll be worth real money if you keep it stock.
mike
If your dad's car was decent when he put it away, I hate to say this, and I'm sure I'll hear plenty back, but you should not mod the car beyond some basic bolt ons. Find out what the car is worth as it sits, and what it would be worth if you put the same time and money into keeping basically stock. You might be surprised.
Do that as a project, or do a lemans like someone said above. Don't mod that car, it'll be worth real money if you keep it stock.
mike
Mike,
Thanks for the input but this car will stay in the family and I want to be able to drive it. I'm hoping that the majority of the car will be "bolt-on" with exception to the tunnel modification for the trans. Also, I will be storing all original parts.
As far as I know the body will only need very minor rust repair on the passenger quarter. The car was repainted at some point from the original gold to white, and my dad is unsure if the 400 is original #'s matching. In fact, I'm unsure how to find out. I should be getting it out of storage July 1 and will take some initial pics to update the thread.
-Nick
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 49
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Mike,
Thanks for the input but this car will stay in the family and I want to be able to drive it. I'm hoping that the majority of the car will be "bolt-on" with exception to the tunnel modification for the trans. Also, I will be storing all original parts.
As far as I know the body will only need very minor rust repair on the passenger quarter. The car was repainted at some point from the original gold to white, and my dad is unsure if the 400 is original #'s matching. In fact, I'm unsure how to find out. I should be getting it out of storage July 1 and will take some initial pics to update the thread.
-Nick
Thanks for the input but this car will stay in the family and I want to be able to drive it. I'm hoping that the majority of the car will be "bolt-on" with exception to the tunnel modification for the trans. Also, I will be storing all original parts.
As far as I know the body will only need very minor rust repair on the passenger quarter. The car was repainted at some point from the original gold to white, and my dad is unsure if the 400 is original #'s matching. In fact, I'm unsure how to find out. I should be getting it out of storage July 1 and will take some initial pics to update the thread.
-Nick
Mike,
Thanks for the input but this car will stay in the family and I want to be able to drive it. I'm hoping that the majority of the car will be "bolt-on" with exception to the tunnel modification for the trans. Also, I will be storing all original parts.
As far as I know the body will only need very minor rust repair on the passenger quarter. The car was repainted at some point from the original gold to white, and my dad is unsure if the 400 is original #'s matching. In fact, I'm unsure how to find out. I should be getting it out of storage July 1 and will take some initial pics to update the thread.
-Nick
Thanks for the input but this car will stay in the family and I want to be able to drive it. I'm hoping that the majority of the car will be "bolt-on" with exception to the tunnel modification for the trans. Also, I will be storing all original parts.
As far as I know the body will only need very minor rust repair on the passenger quarter. The car was repainted at some point from the original gold to white, and my dad is unsure if the 400 is original #'s matching. In fact, I'm unsure how to find out. I should be getting it out of storage July 1 and will take some initial pics to update the thread.
-Nick
http://www.pontiacpower.net/engcode01.html
If the six number code above the two letter code matches the last six digits of your VIN, then the engine is original to the car. The last six digits of the VIN will also be found on various driveline parts, like the transmission and rear end.
Andrew
Its your car... have fun with it and make it exactly the way you want (and your bank account can cover).
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 179
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From: Kansas City
That is my same thought process with my dad's car. I'm almost looking forward to people questioning my judgement of dropping an LSx into and original Judge. I want the car to be fun and have perfect manners. Back when my dad bought the car I remember going out to the garage to warm the car up about 5 min before leaving just so it would idle.
Its your car... have fun with it and make it exactly the way you want (and your bank account can cover).
Its your car... have fun with it and make it exactly the way you want (and your bank account can cover).
If it was a judge and worth that kind of money I probably would have to reconsider.
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 816
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From: Texas
For suspension I highly recommend http://scandc.com/new/ Ask for Marcus he is the guru of A-body handling. I am very pleased with the setup they sold me.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 179
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From: Kansas City
Just a quick update. Got the GTO running with only a few days worth of maintenance. Changed all the fluids and put in a new Specter Premium tank with new fuel lines and she starts right up.
I am running into a wiring issue which cause a difficult warm start. The goat will start on the first cold attempt but once warmed up and driven for a short time it will not restart. The car will have to sit and cool down before restart. When attempting a warm restart there is NOTHING. No attempt to turn over, no clicking...nothing. We thought it was the neutral safety switch on the colum but after replacing the switch we still have the same problem. I'm trying to trace the wiring from the switch to the starter but ran out of time this past weekend...I need to get my hands on a wiring diagram for this car.
I'll update and edit with pics later.
I am running into a wiring issue which cause a difficult warm start. The goat will start on the first cold attempt but once warmed up and driven for a short time it will not restart. The car will have to sit and cool down before restart. When attempting a warm restart there is NOTHING. No attempt to turn over, no clicking...nothing. We thought it was the neutral safety switch on the colum but after replacing the switch we still have the same problem. I'm trying to trace the wiring from the switch to the starter but ran out of time this past weekend...I need to get my hands on a wiring diagram for this car.
I'll update and edit with pics later.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 179
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From: Kansas City
Update. The CTS-V sold 
but now if have $$ for the GTO 
1) I have already picked up black leather seats and center console from a 06 GTO
2) Picked up a 07 6.2L L92 from an Escalde- now I need to start researching what I will need to do to turn it into an LS3 (research andrew's GTO thread) and start shopping for T56's, suspension, brakes, wheels and tires.
Now that the V is sold and I already have bought a few big items I'm feeling pretty well commited at this point.
but now if have $$ for the GTO 1) I have already picked up black leather seats and center console from a 06 GTO
2) Picked up a 07 6.2L L92 from an Escalde- now I need to start researching what I will need to do to turn it into an LS3 (research andrew's GTO thread) and start shopping for T56's, suspension, brakes, wheels and tires.
Now that the V is sold and I already have bought a few big items I'm feeling pretty well commited at this point.