T76s10

iTrader: (6)

Haha that would have been bad!!! And no problem That's why i made this thread so that i can learn from other people and so other people can learn from me.

Black98s10

Hey bro, what pump did you use to bring the oil back to the pan? I think I might jump on the turbo band wagon, but I was thinking of doing twin 70mm midmount turbos. You think I can run a single oil feed T-ing off to each turbo or wouldn't that be enough pressure?

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

Hey I just bought a cheap one from Ebay. I think it was like $150 or something. Its white and works pretty good. Your doing a 5.3? if you are i would probably do twins on the 65mm range so it would spool quicker. And yes you can t them off. Turbos don't need tons of oil pressure.

Black98s10

Yeah the more I think of it, 64-67mm would be better. It is a 5.3L for now.

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

I would give precision a call. They have good prices and they could size your turbos no problem. Just tell them your doing rear mounted twins on a 5.3

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Twin On3 68mm ball bearings for $1250 would be pretty trick

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

Now your Talkin lol. .68ar and let her eat

Black98s10

That would be a good idea to go with the ballbearing turbos to help spooling. I'm going to try to get all the turbo stuff for under the price of a new D1SC headunit. Shouldn't be hard but I still have to price everything though.

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

I think the procharger setup will be more expensive in the end when you add pulley and belt costs up along with the head unit. Even with doing twins, if you can fabricate your own turbo piping it should still be cheaper.

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

Two on3 67mm ball bearing turbos = $1,434
Two emusa 38mm wastegates = $113.96
50mm bov = $53.99
3" intercooler = $110
2.25" turbo hotside piping = $400
2.5" turbo coldside piping = $200
Oil pump = $161.30
Oil lines/fittings = $100
TOTAL = $2,519.26

That's just an estimated pricing from Ebay parts which is what i used in my build besides the bov. I would do 2.25" hotside piping to increase spool and 2.5" cold side piping because 3" is way to big for a rearmount setup. You could probably even do 2" hotside piping off each header to each turbo. I would run the cold pipe of each turbo into a Y off of each turbo then run a single pipe up to your intercooler. I'll warn you though, your intercooler up front will increase your iats and reduce airflow dramatically to your radiator like mine did, but, i don't think my puller setup was shrouded good enough to pull Heat from the radiator.. That's why i relocated it to under the floor pan and it works great. I overpriced the piping a little because flanges and v bands add up price. I get my v bands off ebay for around $15 a piece. I order all my pipe from mandrelbends.com and i used steel pipe for both my hot and cold piping and welded it all together.

Hope that helped lol. Theirs a guy with rear mounted twins on a vette and he is the guru for twin rear mounts. I think hes on a vette forum though.

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

ok so i havent had an update for a pretty long time but for very good reasons.

first things first, i didnt like how my truck would die when coming to a stop in gear and when switching to reverse, so i decided to put an abs sensor in the driver side to act as the vss to my computer knows when my truck is moving.


and since we patched the rusty panels we had to bondo it


cant even tell we did body work



and since we had bondo we decided to fix the part where the guy who had the truck before me backed up and dented the back


and then since we fixed that dented corner we had to bondo the bent tailgate, and then since we were at it we decided to relocate the tailgate handle



and then we had to replace the bent to **** rollpan, so we did



and then we obvously had to cover up the old gas tank lid, and then the old antenna hole. at this point we had too much body work into it to drive it around like that, so we ended up sanding it all down


you obvously know whats coming up next...


















changed tach locations since the dash didnt have enough support and it was wobbly


and relocated the cup holders


tomorrow we gotta fix some leaks and i am still waiting for my .81 housing from on3. its been ten days and im kinda starting to get pissed. i dont want to drive it until i get my new housing. i still need to tune the ve table a little more because cruising on the highway its around 16afr and at wot its around 10.9afr so i need to fix that. ill have another video up once i get my new housing.

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

got the new .81 housing


old one off


new one on with an air filter, finally


yep, she weighs 3,240 lbs without me in it. just where i expected


and a few pulls with the new housing.
http://youtu.be/plMHFwDg2wM

it spools quicker but isnt making that much boost. im going to turn the controller up and see if it will make more boost. if i cant get this thing to make over 5lbs boost even in 5k rpm range i might have to trade for a y2k ebay gt45 turbo. maybe then ill feel full boost. im not sure yet still need to play around with a few things

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

If i can't get this turbo to hit 15lbs I'm looking at selling it with the spare .96ar housing and buying on3's ball bearing 67mm turbo. So if anyone is interested in a t76 with a spare .96 housing for $400 shipped let me know. I only have 150 miles on it.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

If you can't get it to hit 15 psi then there is something else wrong in the system. Check for exhaust and boost leaks. There is no reason a single turbo, even a rear mounted one, should not hit full boost WELL before 5000 rpms. Start looking for any little soot deposits around your exhaust joints.

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

I'm going to crank the boost controller all the way tonight and see if i can make more boost. I been slowly cranking it just to be safe and it hasn't really changed. Before i put the wrap on i didn't have any leaks and i checked everything. I'm going to look at the header flanges again tonight

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

I can feel it get into boost because it starts spinning the tires but my giraffe won't read boost until like 5k rpm

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

I think its because i had the boost controller hooked up wrong so i couldn't increase boost because the nipples on the controller were in the wrong places. Also after research, the wastegate reference was hooked to the outlet of the compressor housing so it was only seeing 5psi at the manifold because the distance from the turbo to the manifold drops pressure 4psi. Guaranteed off i hook it up to the manifold i would be making 9lbs boost. I modified the spring to act as a preload screw to put more pressure on the spring to increase boost pressure. Is it the smartest thing to do? No, but we will see how much pressure she reaches lol. My fuel tables are a bit rich and timing is conservative so i think we will bee safe. If anything, I'll let of at 15lbs, if my tranny doesn't shift before then. Figured out i do need a full manual valve body after all so i will be able to shift at the proper rpm. Once i see how she is at 15lbs I'll decide weather our not i will buy the 67mm bb. Then ill need some drag radials to hook up.

a4ls2goat

what stall converter are you running?

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

See that's one thing I'm not positive about. I had the tranny shop put one in and they said they were going to do a 2800 or something. I don't know anything about trannys but How much can a converter effect spool? I am planning on doing a full manual valve body, trans brake, and a better converter for this winter.

DavidPHumes

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to bet it's either the converter or a boost leak. Lots of people have rear mounts without these issues. Oh and the paint looks good I'll take another ride please

Maybe your wastegate isn't in the right spot?