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69 Camaro LS2/4L70E install

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Old 09-09-2012, 09:05 PM
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I got a lot of stuff done on the car this weekend. I finished ALL of the wiring except installing the torque converter lockout relay and an engine to body ground. I just placed an order for some fittings for the steam vent and engine oil priming setup. If all goes well next weekend the car will be running. Still lots to do before I can drive it, but it should be running!!
Old 09-09-2012, 10:46 PM
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That's a great feeling,knowing your soo close
Old 09-10-2012, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by bmf5150
That's a great feeling,knowing your soo close
Yes it is! I finished the exhaust, torque converter lockup relay and a few other items tonight. At the current pace it won't be much longer!!!

I still need to come up with a pre-engine start-up checklist just to make sure I haven't overlooked anything.
Old 09-12-2012, 10:55 PM
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I am in the home stretch now. Before I fire it up I need to install the intake, CAI, plugs, wires, prime engine oil pump, bleed brakes, install PCV catch can and add: oil, trans fluid & coolant.

I am having a heck of a time finding a location to mount the Mike Norris PCV catch can. The thing is enormous. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I should, or shouldn't mount it?

It's a mess, but here is a pic of the engine.
Old 09-24-2012, 05:38 AM
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Good news! Early last week my neighbor and I finally fired up the LS2! THe motor sounds incredible! Everything went well and the motor isn't giving off any OBDII codes. However, the tachometer is dead. I need to look into why. It's getting power, the tach signal wire is hooked up and I have it set it to 4 cylinder mode.

I will post a start up video later! In order to drive it I need to align the front end, install the seats and do some safety checks as the car has been apart for almost 6 years.

Last edited by Rocketrod; 09-29-2012 at 03:59 PM.
Old 09-24-2012, 07:00 AM
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Great news!!
Can't wait to hear more about it as you start driving it around.

Bill B.
Old 09-28-2012, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BillB
Great news!!
Can't wait to hear more about it as you start driving it around.

Bill B.
Works been busy, but I hope to get the front end aligned, plus a few other things taken care of so I can take her for a spin this weekend.
Old 09-29-2012, 10:51 AM
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What a great thread. I'm fairly new to the site; but am finally at the stage in my build to start thinking engine/trans. I'm going with the same engine trans/combo and also got it through Travis. I don't have it in hands yet, but have only good things to say about Travis just from talking with him, as you've experienced. Just some really good info here. Will have to go through this a few times.
Old 09-29-2012, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by srfwagn
What a great thread. I'm fairly new to the site; but am finally at the stage in my build to start thinking engine/trans. I'm going with the same engine trans/combo and also got it through Travis. .
Who is this Travis I hear about? A local dismantler?
Old 09-29-2012, 12:56 PM
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Nice looking ride. What are you going to do with the speedometer?
Old 09-29-2012, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by srfwagn
What a great thread. I'm fairly new to the site; but am finally at the stage in my build to start thinking engine/trans. I'm going with the same engine trans/combo and also got it through Travis. I don't have it in hands yet, but have only good things to say about Travis just from talking with him, as you've experienced. Just some really good info here. Will have to go through this a few times.
Thanks! You won't regret buying from Travis! I bought my engine/trans package over a year ago and we still talk on a regular basis. In fact, I plan on going up to his place and checking out his new shop soon (I hope).

Originally Posted by Jimbo1367

Who is this Travis I hear about? A local dismantler?
Travis is a car enthusiast, located near Indianapolis, IN, that got into selling engine/trans pullouts a few years ago. You will be hard pressed to find a better person to deal with. He even recently open shop on the side to do LS swap, plus he has a guy that can mod harnesses, or made one from scratch.

Originally Posted by muncie21
Nice looking ride. What are you going to do with the speedometer?
Thanks. The speedomter should be fine, as I have it hooked up to the speedo wire from the ECM. It is electric and I will just have to calibrate it once I am on the road..
Old 09-30-2012, 07:57 PM
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Not much time for the car this weekend, but I did get the front end aligned, started cutting the carpet and added a pull up resistor to the tach signal and it is registering now. Of course I do have a few other issues.
  1. Alternator output is 11.6V - New corvette alternator, all wiring is new and secure plus I have a 470 ohm resistor inline on the red wire going to the alt plug. I have plenty of grounds also, 2 2/0 cable going from the engine to the body. Anyone have any suggestions.
  2. Lower radiator hose started leak - After 10-15 minutes of idling the lower radiator hose started dripping at both hose ends. When looking at the hose it looked like it was bulging since the thermostat hadn't open. This is the first time I have had any leaks. TO stop this should I drill a couple of 1/16" or 1?8" bypass hole in the thermostat to relieve pressure?
  3. Tachometer reading fluttering below 1,000 rpms. - I add a pull up resistor to boost the tach signal, but when engine rpm goes under a 1,000, the tach need is not steady (flutters). For the pulll up resistor circuit I used ignition power to a 4.7K ohm resistor tied into the tach signal. Anyone have any suggestions.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Old 09-30-2012, 10:23 PM
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"For the pulll up resistor circuit I used ignition power to a 4.7K ohm resistor tied into the tach signal. Anyone have any suggestions. "

Hmmmm, in my notes I have "add a 1K ohm pull-up resistor" to the tachometer signal. I have not done it yet so I really don't know.
Old 10-01-2012, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 1989GTA
"For the pulll up resistor circuit I used ignition power to a 4.7K ohm resistor tied into the tach signal. Anyone have any suggestions. "

Hmmmm, in my notes I have "add a 1K ohm pull-up resistor" to the tachometer signal. I have not done it yet so I really don't know.
Interesting....I got my advice from someone who has built harnesses for about 10 years, but when I called Auto Meter they said use a +5 volt signal with a 10K ohm resistor tied into the tach signal.
Old 10-01-2012, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocketrod
  1. Lower radiator hose started leak - After 10-15 minutes of idling the lower radiator hose started dripping at both hose ends. When looking at the hose it looked like it was bulging since the thermostat hadn't open. This is the first time I have had any leaks. TO stop this should I drill a couple of 1/16" or 1?8" bypass hole in the thermostat to relieve pressure?
I was talking to a friend and he thinks this might be happening due to trapped air.
Old 10-03-2012, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocketrod
...
  1. Alternator output is 11.6V - New corvette alternator, all wiring is new and secure plus I have a 470 ohm resistor inline on the red wire going to the alt plug. I have plenty of grounds also, 2 2/0 cable going from the engine to the body. Anyone have any suggestions.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Well this is a lesson in humility. I check the resistance on the exciter wire and noticed I had 900 ohm resistance. I removed my 470 ohm resistor and the reading drop to 400 ohm. I reconnected the wire, started the motor and like magic the alternator output jumped to 13.2v and measured 12.7v at the battery. It's a little on the low side, but it should work with no problems

When I originally got my harness from SSP Wiring, they did not label any of the wires like they said they would, and they never replied to my emails about hooking up the alternator exciter wire. I was so enamored with the fact I read I needed a 470 ohm resistor I did not check to see that they had already done this......

On the plus side I did come across a great thread showing how corvette, f-body and truck alternators should be wired, https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ml#post7748845


Originally Posted by Rocketrod
...
  1. Lower radiator hose started leak - After 10-15 minutes of idling the lower radiator hose started dripping at both hose ends. When looking at the hose it looked like it was bulging since the thermostat hadn't open. This is the first time I have had any leaks. TO stop this should I drill a couple of 1/16" or 1?8" bypass hole in the thermostat to relieve pressure?
  2. Tachometer reading fluttering below 1,000 rpms. - I add a pull up resistor to boost the tach signal, but when engine rpm goes under a 1,000, the tach need is not steady (flutters). For the pulll up resistor circuit I used ignition power to a 4.7K ohm resistor tied into the tach signal. Anyone have any suggestions.
The lower hose end at the radiator still has an intermittent drip and the tach reading still flutters at idle.
Old 10-03-2012, 06:15 AM
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I forgot to mention the engine is throwing a P0171 & P0174 codes: System to lean Band 1 & bank 2 respectively. I am wondering if this is because I need my tune tweeked since I added a CAI?
Old 10-03-2012, 02:51 PM
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Been quietly stalking this thread... I'm about to start my build... So much good info on this thread thanks a lot. Can't wait for final pic and 1st drive impressions
Old 10-03-2012, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocketrod
I was talking to a friend and he thinks this might be happening due to trapped air.
Rod,
Not sure if you added a steam vent line to your system (can't tell by engine pics)... That will eliminate the "bulging due to trapped air". (line attached to my upper rad hose)


This might be your prob if you don't have one...

TC
Old 10-03-2012, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by tango68ss
Rod,
Not sure if you added a steam vent line to your system (can't tell by engine pics)... That will eliminate the "bulging due to trapped air". (line attached to my upper rad hose)
TC
Thanks TC. I did install a steam vent. It is in port #224 located in front of the power steering reservoir.


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