1993 FOX notch LSX + turbo swap pics
09-19-2011, 06:41 PM
#41
Well,...against all my buddies who just wanted me to make mounts at work,..I guess I lost patience.....and today, I ordered an AJE K member. Gonna use factory a arms at this stage of the build as well as factory springs.
Removed ALMOST everything from the car. E core, removed, sound system mostly removed. Dash went out, and is now loosely back in place just incase we need to remove it again or move it. V bands should be welded onto the truck manifolds this week, tore down old 5.3 motor, see cam wear but, we may use this motor(rebuilt), we may not. We'll know that soon.
rear seat area..
glove compartment...minus core...
Yes, the turbo emblem came on the dashboard. You know your jealous
Lovely times.
box O goods.
Removed ALMOST everything from the car. E core, removed, sound system mostly removed. Dash went out, and is now loosely back in place just incase we need to remove it again or move it. V bands should be welded onto the truck manifolds this week, tore down old 5.3 motor, see cam wear but, we may use this motor(rebuilt), we may not. We'll know that soon.
rear seat area..
glove compartment...minus core...
Yes, the turbo emblem came on the dashboard. You know your jealous
Lovely times.
box O goods.
09-19-2011, 07:30 PM
#43
Yup, ordered it with them.
Happy to hear dude finally replied,...almost forgot about him till I looked at the car today. Now I need torque boxes so I can install all that jazz, once. Gonna mount air to air this week maybe. Then subframes.....then cage...fuel...trans,..shifter..diff, wheels, tires.
Need more used ****.
FYI,,...hitting up the extreme indoor karting again tomorrow night, if your down.
09-21-2011, 07:58 PM
#47
K, I installed the lowers, and strange adjustable shocks.
Buddy that sold the setup to us, through in a set of springs. The springs are narrow, not having a whole lot of girth. To me, they look like front coil over springs or something maybe. Anyone have any insight on which springs they COULD be? I went to install in rear cause I was told they were rear drag springs but, they seemed identical in RATE to eachother so neither seemed like a right side,...also the upper spring perch was too large for the spring to sit there, and lock in place. So, I left them out, hoping I can use them again somewhere else....like on a set of struts and coilovers.
Springs in the box...
How it sits now...new shocks in rear.
Buddy that sold the setup to us, through in a set of springs. The springs are narrow, not having a whole lot of girth. To me, they look like front coil over springs or something maybe. Anyone have any insight on which springs they COULD be? I went to install in rear cause I was told they were rear drag springs but, they seemed identical in RATE to eachother so neither seemed like a right side,...also the upper spring perch was too large for the spring to sit there, and lock in place. So, I left them out, hoping I can use them again somewhere else....like on a set of struts and coilovers.
Springs in the box...
How it sits now...new shocks in rear.
09-21-2011, 08:47 PM
#50
very cool, think my 88 had tilt now that you mention it,..many moons ago. Didnt think about that, and weight though so thanks man,..i'm gonna look into that.
09-21-2011, 09:19 PM
#51
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Earlier in this thread it was mentioned that a stock fox K-member would not work because of the LS would sit too high, and drive line angles would be off.
It is common practice when dropping a Big block 460 to a fox mustang to lower the K-member an inch or two(aluminum spacers between the K-member and frame rail). I wonder if this would help make an LS fit without the need of a aftermarket k-member?
As a point of reference, I have a QA-1 k-member lowered one inch in my car, a 351 with an Victor Jr. intake, CSU carb, and EV carb hat. It only sticks up 1 1/2" above a stock hood.
http://fordifiedracing.homestead.com/KitInfo.html
Jess
It is common practice when dropping a Big block 460 to a fox mustang to lower the K-member an inch or two(aluminum spacers between the K-member and frame rail). I wonder if this would help make an LS fit without the need of a aftermarket k-member?
As a point of reference, I have a QA-1 k-member lowered one inch in my car, a 351 with an Victor Jr. intake, CSU carb, and EV carb hat. It only sticks up 1 1/2" above a stock hood.
http://fordifiedracing.homestead.com/KitInfo.html
Jess
09-21-2011, 09:59 PM
#52
I personally wouldn't drop the car, it's not going to benefit it's hooking ability. But you could either cut a half a coil off the rears, or go with coil overs in the rear. Again, if it were me, I'd leave it as is. Those factory 4 cyl springs, a good shock and those control arms and it should easily 1.4x on DR's.
If you really want to work hard, and if you haven't already, you can get out a heat gun and start peeling up the sound deadening on the floor. I think in all it's worth 30+ lbs.
09-22-2011, 04:17 PM
#53
Earlier in this thread it was mentioned that a stock fox K-member would not work because of the LS would sit too high, and drive line angles would be off.
It is common practice when dropping a Big block 460 to a fox mustang to lower the K-member an inch or two(aluminum spacers between the K-member and frame rail). I wonder if this would help make an LS fit without the need of a aftermarket k-member?
As a point of reference, I have a QA-1 k-member lowered one inch in my car, a 351 with an Victor Jr. intake, CSU carb, and EV carb hat. It only sticks up 1 1/2" above a stock hood.
http://fordifiedracing.homestead.com/KitInfo.html
Jess
It is common practice when dropping a Big block 460 to a fox mustang to lower the K-member an inch or two(aluminum spacers between the K-member and frame rail). I wonder if this would help make an LS fit without the need of a aftermarket k-member?
As a point of reference, I have a QA-1 k-member lowered one inch in my car, a 351 with an Victor Jr. intake, CSU carb, and EV carb hat. It only sticks up 1 1/2" above a stock hood.
http://fordifiedracing.homestead.com/KitInfo.html
Jess
If I had to guess they're fronts, but it really just depends on the rate as to where they're meant to be.
I personally wouldn't drop the car, it's not going to benefit it's hooking ability. But you could either cut a half a coil off the rears, or go with coil overs in the rear. Again, if it were me, I'd leave it as is. Those factory 4 cyl springs, a good shock and those control arms and it should easily 1.4x on DR's.
Ya, it's only a 2-3 lb difference, but every little bit helps. Plus tilt is nice and it looks 100x less ugly without the airbag.
If you really want to work hard, and if you haven't already, you can get out a heat gun and start peeling up the sound deadening on the floor. I think in all it's worth 30+ lbs.
I personally wouldn't drop the car, it's not going to benefit it's hooking ability. But you could either cut a half a coil off the rears, or go with coil overs in the rear. Again, if it were me, I'd leave it as is. Those factory 4 cyl springs, a good shock and those control arms and it should easily 1.4x on DR's.
Ya, it's only a 2-3 lb difference, but every little bit helps. Plus tilt is nice and it looks 100x less ugly without the airbag.
If you really want to work hard, and if you haven't already, you can get out a heat gun and start peeling up the sound deadening on the floor. I think in all it's worth 30+ lbs.
Cool deal man, also appreciate the insight. I guess I will see how the car looks once it gets full weight. Go from there after that. I dunno what kind of weight I can get the car to but, I would like to get it as light as humanly possible. Heat gun eh?,....I have been looking at that **** on the floor board now for the past week,..wondering if I wanna do that or not. That MIGHT be a project that you that you start,...you will have to finish lol. Maybe I will do it..might give me something to do.
Did some work today...posting as the pics load.
Thanks again.
09-22-2011, 06:30 PM
#56
AJE is suspect for tomorrow morning delivery....meaning by saturday, possibly tomorrow, the cradle will be bolted up. I need to get the 5.3 together, as it needs a thing or two. Maybe this week coming up, it will be ready to install. Thinking about putting together a 6.0 that I have as well. We'll see. I need to make some plates and go inside underneath the dash/firewall area and fill in the large openings for the AC system. Can't have those big *** holes in the wall like that so...gonna have to make something for that.
We'll see.
We'll see.
09-22-2011, 06:46 PM
#57
If I had to guess they're fronts, but it really just depends on the rate as to where they're meant to be.
I personally wouldn't drop the car, it's not going to benefit it's hooking ability. But you could either cut a half a coil off the rears, or go with coil overs in the rear. Again, if it were me, I'd leave it as is. Those factory 4 cyl springs, a good shock and those control arms and it should easily 1.4x on DR's.
Ya, it's only a 2-3 lb difference, but every little bit helps. Plus tilt is nice and it looks 100x less ugly without the airbag.
If you really want to work hard, and if you haven't already, you can get out a heat gun and start peeling up the sound deadening on the floor. I think in all it's worth 30+ lbs.
I personally wouldn't drop the car, it's not going to benefit it's hooking ability. But you could either cut a half a coil off the rears, or go with coil overs in the rear. Again, if it were me, I'd leave it as is. Those factory 4 cyl springs, a good shock and those control arms and it should easily 1.4x on DR's.
Ya, it's only a 2-3 lb difference, but every little bit helps. Plus tilt is nice and it looks 100x less ugly without the airbag.
If you really want to work hard, and if you haven't already, you can get out a heat gun and start peeling up the sound deadening on the floor. I think in all it's worth 30+ lbs.
CHECK THIS **** OUT!!!
Dry ice baby
http://forums.corral.net/forums/body...fo-thread.html
http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...=dry+ice+sound
09-24-2011, 06:19 PM
#59
You ain't kiddin bro.
Got the K member, installed that **** by myself. Kind of a pain in the *** when your reuseing your factory control arms and struts. The k member itself was easy, although I did have to use a prybar to get the hole lined up on the passenger side front of my AJE K member. Kinda sucked one handed but it wasn't to bad. I then installed the control arms after the k member was up. Getting the factory springs back into the control arm and spring perch,..required 3 people, one to control the lift, hold the strut and guide it up,,,then one person holding the spring and control arm with a pry bar and guiding the control arm on a jack... anyhow, we didn't have a spring compressor laying around so it was what we could do. Everything is all done and on now but,...my INTERMEDIATE shaft is NOW short,...and will not reach the gear or upper shaft if in proper location. So I guess I need to lengthen it or replace with another?
Anyone had this issue?
pics soon.
Got the K member, installed that **** by myself. Kind of a pain in the *** when your reuseing your factory control arms and struts. The k member itself was easy, although I did have to use a prybar to get the hole lined up on the passenger side front of my AJE K member. Kinda sucked one handed but it wasn't to bad. I then installed the control arms after the k member was up. Getting the factory springs back into the control arm and spring perch,..required 3 people, one to control the lift, hold the strut and guide it up,,,then one person holding the spring and control arm with a pry bar and guiding the control arm on a jack... anyhow, we didn't have a spring compressor laying around so it was what we could do. Everything is all done and on now but,...my INTERMEDIATE shaft is NOW short,...and will not reach the gear or upper shaft if in proper location. So I guess I need to lengthen it or replace with another?
Anyone had this issue?
pics soon.
09-24-2011, 07:23 PM
#60
You ain't kiddin bro.
Got the K member, installed that **** by myself. Kind of a pain in the *** when your reuseing your factory control arms and struts. The k member itself was easy, although I did have to use a prybar to get the hole lined up on the passenger side front of my AJE K member. Kinda sucked one handed but it wasn't to bad. I then installed the control arms after the k member was up. Getting the factory springs back into the control arm and spring perch,..required 3 people, one to control the lift, hold the strut and guide it up,,,then one person holding the spring and control arm with a pry bar and guiding the control arm on a jack... anyhow, we didn't have a spring compressor laying around so it was what we could do. Everything is all done and on now but,...my INTERMEDIATE shaft is NOW short,...and will not reach the gear or upper shaft if in proper location. So I guess I need to lengthen it or replace with another?
Anyone had this issue?
pics soon.
Got the K member, installed that **** by myself. Kind of a pain in the *** when your reuseing your factory control arms and struts. The k member itself was easy, although I did have to use a prybar to get the hole lined up on the passenger side front of my AJE K member. Kinda sucked one handed but it wasn't to bad. I then installed the control arms after the k member was up. Getting the factory springs back into the control arm and spring perch,..required 3 people, one to control the lift, hold the strut and guide it up,,,then one person holding the spring and control arm with a pry bar and guiding the control arm on a jack... anyhow, we didn't have a spring compressor laying around so it was what we could do. Everything is all done and on now but,...my INTERMEDIATE shaft is NOW short,...and will not reach the gear or upper shaft if in proper location. So I guess I need to lengthen it or replace with another?
Anyone had this issue?
pics soon.
I'm guessing you're referring to the steering shaft. If so, I had the same problem. My car, a few years newer, had a telescoping type shaft arrangement that just needed an attitude adjustment with a big hammer to make it work. By looking at your pics its obvious that yours is different but it sounds like the problem is the same. At one point I was told the AJE k-member drops the rack an inch or so, that would explain it huh?