It is easy to convert a factory harness to standalone:

http://s704.photobucket.com/albums/w...oneHarness.mp4

 

video doesn't pull up for me

 

Where is the fuseblock?

Whats the point of the video other than identifying the various connectors?

 

I was wondering the same thing...the title to the thread is misleading, but it appears you did a nice job with the harness.

 

Inline fuses are under the main section by the power relays, I did not identify those.


IMO, what is mis-leading are ebay sellers that dont remove any of the extra wires, add $4 relays that are not weather tight, dont add an OBD2 port/check engine lamp, nor fuses. One seller even wraps the re-worked harness in black electrical tape to make it look good in pictures then after it gets hot, it turns into a gooey mess. Then they successfully sell their stuff to $400.

 

I would agree about the re-sellers. Why don't you do some follow up posts about the thought process you went through to convert the harness and list some helpful tips for others. From the looks of the harness you know what your doing...

 

Will do. Gimme some time to write it down. I have the whole process in my mind and do it by memory every time (lots of times).

 

I see two inline fuse holders in the vid. Thats it? Would be a jumbled mess for INJ1, INJ2, PCM IGN, PCM BATT, Fuel, Fans, AC, HO2s, Trans etc

Wrapping a harness in tape isnt necessarily bad. If its the common autozone special, sure, but automotive grade vinyl tape wont get gooey no matter how old or hot it gets

 

someone should do harness thread. aknovaman, i nominate you for the job. school is in session. i assume as more techies become familar with the swaps we will be building stand alone harnesses. a bud of mine left his entire harness intact and used the stock fuse block. he just bundle and wrapped the stuff that he wasnt gonna used. losck very stock. ill take pics n post.

 

The video purpose is to show how small the harness can be made if you remove all the un needed functions and wires.

No jumbled mess, ever. I remove all the snakes mess gm uses.

I measured actual current requirements on a load in car and on my run stand from Idle to wide open throttle. Installed appropriate fusing accordingly. I also evaluated the gm factory fuse sizes as well as wire sizes.

It is the engineer stink on me coming out and 28 years in military electronics in calibration and Avionics work.

I stated electrical tape not non stick vinyl tape.

I have a spreadsheet with all gm printouts from '94 obd1 through 2011 e38 pcm, every flavor Dbw and dbc for standalone config.

Bottom line is I am working on a standalone write up; patience please.

 

I spent 8 years in the Air Force working F-4E & F-15E avionics,


Awesome!

 

Maybe so, but think about it from a troubleshooting perspective. Say the 12v feed for a coil wire shorts to ground and pops a fuse. Now the owner has little more than half his engine is without power to start his diagnosis. Unless the PCM/ALDL IGN/Batt fuses are independent he cant even power up a scanner to begin hunting the problem. With two fuses, I doubt it. More like you're running the whole engine on a pair of 30A fuses, one IGN, one Batt constant, essentially taking all the pinks to IGN and all the oranges to battery

Not touching how much current you're pushing through GM's 18-20ga wiring

 

Obd2 port is not fused and will allow a scanner to function. The injector, coil and o2 power wires are independent and connected directly to each fuse just like a gm fuse panel. Not necessarily what I do on every harness but to each his own in a safe, reliable manner.

 

This is really interested and I'm looking forward to seeing more. I'm going to be working on an LT1 harness soon. I'm hoping this may help simplify my LT1 stand alone harness building in the future.

Thank you for your time in doing this. I'll be patiently waiting on it!

Also just a word of advice you really should upload that video to youtube rather then photobucket. If you get too many hits on that video it will become unavailable because it has had too much traffic go to it. They have a limit on hits you are allowed on each video or photo. Youtube doesn't have a limit the video can be viewed 5 million times and still be available.

 

I kinda thought the same thing at first but it all depends on how many fuzes are used. In my own opinion a fuze panel seems like a better idea to me. Mainly for smaller underhood areas like on S10's. Once that v8 is in place there is hardly room to even slide the harness behind the engine.

Seems easier to go to a fuze box on the firewall some where to check for blow fuzes then to trace down wires. Still not a bad idea either way. I'm very interested in seeing the whole process of it.

 

Anymore on this? Does anyone have a write up? I like the look of the harness. Don't need too much. Most stuff should use the factory fuse panel of the vehicle your working on.

 

I would like to see someone build or improvise an adapter series for stuff like my S-10.

Still use the original fuse block, but the plug on the engine bay firewall by the brake booster would have a short adapter to plug into and bolt down to that one, then the other end to plug into a disconnected block from the firewall of the vehicle with the harness. Thereby eliminating the need, or at least reducing the need, of all the splicing and cutting. The adapter would have the appropriate jumpers built in to allow for stand alone ability. The purchaser would then have to simply have an OBDII port installed and connected and voila!! Ready to program and run.

Now don't go asking me to figure this mess out, I have enough problems just trying to figure out what I already have for a mess and how close it is going to bring me to a stroke.

I know that I have the original harness from my 4.3, completely unmolested. And it could be implemented into the firewall plug and then to the harness for the LS engine. I just have NO CLUE how to go about doing that!!

 

It sounds nice, but it would require a different adapter for each year S10 and LSx harness used

The customer would have to use the stock routing for the harness too which is less than desirable

 

Lots of stuff that these were not designed for will be less than desirable.

Just think how I am dealing with getting fuel up to the engine.......
If you look in my pictures, you can see a quite bent up stock fuel line.

But I now have a kind of roadmap should I decide to remove that line and replace it with either braided lines or solid lines and a tubing bender. The braided lines would be a ton more user friendly, but the solid lines are WAY cheaper and more readily available if need be.

If I had known about all the hassles with just getting fuel lines up there, I would have done that VERY FIRST THING before anything else. But, as usual, hindsight is 20/20 and that makes things very easy to figure out now.

 

i guess you have to have A LOT of patience since this thread died in 2011...the write up ever happen?