why wont my truck start?
#1
why wont my truck start?
i have a turbo 5.3 s10 and i tried starting it last week. it turned over fast but just wouldnt start. so i went into hp tuners and deleted vats and took a few emissions off and changed the displacement size to a 5.3 instead of 4.8 and adjusted the fuel pressure down to 50 (was at 90) and tried starting it again today. battery was fully charged and we tried jumping it also but now its turning over super slow and is much worse than it was last week. check out the vid
next time i try im gonnna hook my laptop up to it and see what hp tuners tells me. this same thing happened to my friends regal except it was a regal with a 307. with a fresh battery it would turn over fast but just not start, then we come back a few days later and it turns over slow as **** just like this.
next time i try im gonnna hook my laptop up to it and see what hp tuners tells me. this same thing happened to my friends regal except it was a regal with a 307. with a fresh battery it would turn over fast but just not start, then we come back a few days later and it turns over slow as **** just like this.
#3
Battery shows 12 volts and the starter is new and I hope its not burnt out. I tried to check spark but it wasnt turning over for **** so i'm not sure if the plug would even have sparked. Tach is moving. I'm not sure about injector pulse yet though. I just don't know why its turning over so damn slow. It sounded like it wanted to when I first tried today but it just won't turn over quick enough
#4
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12 volts even? 12.6 is a full charge. 12 flat is around 60%
I torched my first starter by not giving it a good enough ground. It turned over slow enough that I burned it out by trying to force it.
Does it turn over freely by hand? I don't know what you've done to the engine, but a mechanical problem can cause a slow crank. Check for locked up accessory pulleys too.
Have someone crank the engine while you check battery voltage. It shouldn't drop below 9.6v. If that checks out, see what kind of voltage is available at the starter. If voltage at the starter is good, crank some more and check voltage drop across the battery cables and from the starter case to the ground terminal. If you have an inductive ammeter, check current draw by the starter.
I torched my first starter by not giving it a good enough ground. It turned over slow enough that I burned it out by trying to force it.
Does it turn over freely by hand? I don't know what you've done to the engine, but a mechanical problem can cause a slow crank. Check for locked up accessory pulleys too.
Have someone crank the engine while you check battery voltage. It shouldn't drop below 9.6v. If that checks out, see what kind of voltage is available at the starter. If voltage at the starter is good, crank some more and check voltage drop across the battery cables and from the starter case to the ground terminal. If you have an inductive ammeter, check current draw by the starter.
#5
Has it been running and this is this a new problem or is this a first start?
My two guesses, flooded at first, now dead starter.
First thing I'd do (if this is a first start situation) is charge your batter/get fresh battery and add a ground from your starter to your battery. Just better/more grounds.
My two guesses, flooded at first, now dead starter.
First thing I'd do (if this is a first start situation) is charge your batter/get fresh battery and add a ground from your starter to your battery. Just better/more grounds.
#6
Dammit I think I fried it. I don't have a ground running to it at all. I can make a wiring diagram for what I have tomorrow so you know what I have going on. Volts are at 14 when jumped and the battery is new so I know that's fine. And yes this is my first time starting it.
#7
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You don't need a direct ground from the starter, but it will be the best way to go if you have room. I ran a braided strap from the passenger head to my fender. My cranking speed went up quite a bit after that, but the damage was already done so I got another starter.
After the slow cranking, see how hot the starter is. They call them "cooked" for a reason. Mine left a nice burn on my hand after a few seconds of cranking. They start to smoke eventually.
Check out your starter before ordering another. The parts store listed two options for my 02 5.3, but I ended up with a boneyard unit due to cost. A reman was over 200 bucks from Advance.
After the slow cranking, see how hot the starter is. They call them "cooked" for a reason. Mine left a nice burn on my hand after a few seconds of cranking. They start to smoke eventually.
Check out your starter before ordering another. The parts store listed two options for my 02 5.3, but I ended up with a boneyard unit due to cost. A reman was over 200 bucks from Advance.
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#8
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[QUOTE=T76s10;16284624]fuel pressure down to 50 (was at 90)/QUOTE]
You should be setting pressure to 58 # at the regulator. Unless there is a reason for the low pressure ?
Pick up a Noid light to check to see if you injector are getting an signal and firing.
Good luck
BC
You should be setting pressure to 58 # at the regulator. Unless there is a reason for the low pressure ?
Pick up a Noid light to check to see if you injector are getting an signal and firing.
Good luck
BC
#11
#12
just seems like a battery with not enough amps to start the engine. just another car hooked up to and two sets of jumper cables just to rule out the battery and the cable you are using... then go from there.
#14
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GROUNDS are the key. The grounds have to be able to handle the SAME loads as the pos cable.
Time for some review as to how the grounds are laid out. [Or not].
Then, volt drop testing is in order.
Keep mucking around w/ bad grounds, and you will smoke test whatever grounds are there..
Time for some review as to how the grounds are laid out. [Or not].
Then, volt drop testing is in order.
Keep mucking around w/ bad grounds, and you will smoke test whatever grounds are there..
#15
I just put the fuel pressure at 50 for now because I heard you need atleast 34 to start it so I just got it in the general range so I can fine tune it later. where the starter mounts to the block is painted so i'm sure it's not grounded good. I dont have the block grounded to the frame though, is that ok? Or should I run a 0 gauge wire from the block to the frame? It used too turn over fast but now it's slow so I think I fried it. I'll go through the grounds again and make sure that's all good before I buy a new starter but i'm sure the starter it's already fucked. I'll make I wiring diagram for what I have for the starter tonight and take pictures so I can make sure I got this right
#17
You don't need a direct ground from the starter, but it will be the best way to go if you have room. I ran a braided strap from the passenger head to my fender. My cranking speed went up quite a bit after that, but the damage was already done so I got another starter.
After the slow cranking, see how hot the starter is. They call them "cooked" for a reason. Mine left a nice burn on my hand after a few seconds of cranking. They start to smoke eventually.
Check out your starter before ordering another. The parts store listed two options for my 02 5.3, but I ended up with a boneyard unit due to cost. A reman was over 200 bucks from Advance.
After the slow cranking, see how hot the starter is. They call them "cooked" for a reason. Mine left a nice burn on my hand after a few seconds of cranking. They start to smoke eventually.
Check out your starter before ordering another. The parts store listed two options for my 02 5.3, but I ended up with a boneyard unit due to cost. A reman was over 200 bucks from Advance.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150748268316...84.m1438.l2649
Last edited by lizeec; 05-08-2012 at 11:18 AM.
#18
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I would make sure the starter mounting spot is clean and bare metal, that may be your issue. I run the neg battery cable to the block, then a jumper to the frame, then another on the drivers side to the frame. The harness grounds are bolted to the block. All of the big ones on mine are 6ga or bigger.
#19
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Even if the area on the block is painted, you would get a grounding circuit from the Bolts that connect the Starter to the Block, but a clean surface will help.
Gen III/IV EFI systems require 58 PSI at the Injectors to function correctly. I recall a few thread where low fuel pressure was the cause of either not starting or hard starting. Try raising it to 58 PSI as specified by GM in there FSM.
I would recommend more grounds.
Battery (Neg) = to block, Frame and Body
Block = to Battery, frame (I use one on each side of the block to the frame) and Body (firewall)
PCM Harness = Three grounding wires to the back of the head
Most if not all electrical problem are bad ground related or start with a bad ground.
BC
Gen III/IV EFI systems require 58 PSI at the Injectors to function correctly. I recall a few thread where low fuel pressure was the cause of either not starting or hard starting. Try raising it to 58 PSI as specified by GM in there FSM.
I would recommend more grounds.
Battery (Neg) = to block, Frame and Body
Block = to Battery, frame (I use one on each side of the block to the frame) and Body (firewall)
PCM Harness = Three grounding wires to the back of the head
Most if not all electrical problem are bad ground related or start with a bad ground.
BC
#20
Ok more grounds has too be the issue. I'll clean up the mounting surface for the starter and bump the fuel pressure up to 58. My ecm is grounded right to the frame, is that ok? And my battery negative it's right to the frame, do I need to run it to the block also? Our can I just ground the block directly to three frame? Also, my injectors are mounted to the firewall, is that another problem? From what I understood a ground is a ground and weather or not is was grounded to the firewall, frame, or battery - it was good. I'm thinking I need another good ground from the block to the frame because the block isn't grounded.