Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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L33 Valkyrie, 1800 LBS 310 horse 330 FPT death machine

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Old 08-01-2012, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
What can happen is that the fork extends too far into the housosing it it's not correctly seated on the stud. With the trans input shaft in place, that forces the throwout bearing too far onto the fork. The rear lip of the throwout bearing that holds it on the fork can then catch the inside of the fork, cocking it and jamming it.
That or you've mounted the throwout incorrectly on the fork or got the wrong for.
Shoot a pic or 2,
I can see how that would happen gary, but I cant figure how the prevents the motor and trans from separating.

And if it isnt whats causing it, what is?
Old 08-01-2012, 12:27 PM
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Pic 1, that fork is on too far. The end should be at the center of the bearing.
The offset bearing is pushing or twisting the bell. Binding against the locator dowels.
Old 08-01-2012, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
Pic 1, that fork is on too far. The end should be at the center of the bearing.
The offset bearing is pushing or twisting the bell. Binding against the locator dowels.
I agree. It should be in the center of the bearing. Are you sure you have the correct fork? I think I remember there were several different sizes. Or maybe there were two different sized pivot *****
Old 08-01-2012, 11:19 PM
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Well, I will probably need to replace the fork now anyhow, any part number recomendations?

BUT is that whats causing the problem putting together and takeing apart? seems it would be silly to put it back together till I knew. but at the same time the thing is in pretty rough shape if it rains, I am screwed.
Old 08-02-2012, 02:58 AM
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What bell housing are you using? There are forks specific for different applications, but the stud to bearing distance should be the same for a diven bell.
Old 08-02-2012, 01:03 PM
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I am useing the 621 bell, and the fork that came with the car, no saying what the fork is off from really. not the corvair I am sure, maybe the Corvette the motor came from, or the trans am the clutch came from.


What fork goes with the 621 or what fork should i get?
Old 08-02-2012, 02:13 PM
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There's your problem. Corvette forks have a pin attachment for the Z bar. Most others have an indentation that a rod simply is held in by spring pressure. How is your clutch linkage set up? Also, what throwout bearing is that, and what are the dimensions?
Old 08-02-2012, 02:57 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by AronZ28
When I first read the title, I was thinking you were putting that L33 into one of these, and I was like "How in the hell???? That'll never work . . . "



Good luck with your project, it should be a beast . . .
thank god im not the only one who thought that hahahah
Old 08-02-2012, 03:38 PM
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bearing is the LS7 part number I got from your right up

I do not have a clutch linkage,

so I should be able to just go get a GM Clutch Fork part is # is 3892632 maybe?
Old 08-02-2012, 04:01 PM
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I am not an expert, but dont want to see you have to pull the engine several more times. I think there are 2 pivot ball lengths & 3 throwout bearing lengths, and all of these relate to the clutch/pressure plate and fork being used. If the geometry is off you may not have have proper operation. And (not saying you did this) but the bearing can be installed improperly on the fork.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/atta...stallation.jpg
Old 08-02-2012, 04:45 PM
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More fork geometry, throwout bearing info:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm

Originally Posted by 74modified
I am not an expert, but dont want to see you have to pull the engine several more times. I think there are 2 pivot ball lengths & 3 throwout bearing lengths, and all of these relate to the clutch/pressure plate and fork being used. If the geometry is off you may not have have proper operation. And (not saying you did this) but the bearing can be installed improperly on the fork.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/atta...stallation.jpg
Old 08-02-2012, 06:02 PM
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I did indeed have the thing installed incorrectly.
Old 08-02-2012, 06:52 PM
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keep posting pics, questions, and info. Short of a GTM, this is the most interesting build going.
Old 08-03-2012, 12:18 AM
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I am going to price new shocks tomorrow when I am (hopefully) getting the new clutch fork.
Shocks on it are "brand new" from 1985 and have never been driven on, but they are ugly and dirty and a bit rusty, and I want it to be pretty.

I am going to go to the auto parts store and order a clutch fork out of a 68-72 big block car and hope it works.

I really want to get the motor and trans back in so I can install the drive-shafts I spent hours cleaning and painting and changing the U joints in.

The drive shafts have never been installed since 1972 and I get a real kick out of any part that I put on that I haven't put on before,.... I need occasional progress to keep me going LOL
Old 08-03-2012, 12:45 AM
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On the fork, try a 72 chevelle with a big block.
Old 08-03-2012, 08:20 AM
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Nice link Gary, I will have to file that one, it could come in handy.
Crazier, don't get discouraged, it will be worth it when finished. And I hope the rain cooperates.
Old 08-04-2012, 04:10 PM
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Any reason for useing the 72 big block fork?

cus I cant find one for the 72, but There was one for the 73 I think at summit
Old 08-04-2012, 10:48 PM
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http://www.4speedconversions.com/3892632.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-72-GM-Bod...sories&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-72-Chevel...sories&vxp=mtr
Old 08-04-2012, 11:56 PM
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Thanks 74, I was hoping to source something locally, rather then pay shipping and wait forever, but the one was real close to me and free shipping.

I just thought it was a little strange taht nearly all the auto parts stores could get the 73 fork, but none of them can get the 72 fork to save their lives.
Old 08-05-2012, 01:27 AM
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I suggested 72 since I know it used the 621 bell and a fork with the indentation, not pin. Not sure if the 73 fork is different.


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