Crazier

A 1971 Valkyrie kit car by Fiberfab. body, frame and parts cost me $1500 including shipping from Wisconsin, Car was built in 1971 and driven 7k miles, they took it apart to repair it, and then left it sit for 30+ years.

I purchased an l33 out of an 05 Silverado with 130k miles on it for $1200, Its supposed to be delivered to the depot on Monday. I need to find confirmation on the part numbers for clutch and flywheel combinations to connect it to the Corvair transmission.
There was a broken bolt hole on the differential, fixing that cost me $250 cus I was chicken to do the reassembly myself.
So far total outlay is $2950.00 Id like to have it assembled for a total of 5k, but I just realized it needs to have the front end totally rebuilt and all of the steering linkage is missing, so I may not make my budget.
Most of the pieces, including a motor came with it, but a lot are missing or are in less then optimal shape. and its cheaper to buy a running LS motor then it is to rebuild an old SBC and get over 300 HP, not to mention the 140 lb weight saveings of the aluminum block. Besides, haveing an l33 is cool

Crazier

I spent two days scraping the frame with a wire brush, with help from the kids and my nephew, I am worried about the girl, If she continues the habit of working on race cars with bare feet and a princess dress I am going to have to kill a lot of teenage Boys.

The frame looks pretty beefy to me, and the original production valkyrie had 450 HP and went 183 MPH, with a very similar frame, so I am thinking its going to hold up to anything I want to do to it.

They list the frame specs as:
Special rectangular tube frame ( 5" x 2" x . 0 8 3"
steel tubing with l / 8 " steel - plate gusset reinforcements ) .

Crazier

In 2003 a new company started up using all the old Fiberfab tooling, this is helpful for finding missing parts and information. I really think it would be cool to buy one of their new high tech frames, but at a price of 11k for an entire kit, I will make do with what I have.

http://www.fiberfab.us/

http://www.fiberfab.us/manuals/earlyvalkyrie.pdf

If you are thinking about a new project check them out. I would actually love to buy their top of the line kit, with a Pantera transaxle and a 400+ inch lsx motor.

Though I am pretty sure id be scared to start it let alone drive it, how does a .75 hp per pound ratio sound to you?

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like fun, lol.

Cool project btw.

superdave84

Cool project. Are you going to lower it? It would look so much cooler pinned to the ground.

Also, for frame paint, I used Chassis Saver. Super tough and basically chemical-proof once cures. You can actually paint right over surface rust as long as you scuff it first. No need to go down to bare metal all over. $40 will paint your whole frame and you will have plenty left over (if you used a paint gun + their S8 reducer). If you paint it with a brush it will take about double the paint. Just an option you have if you are looking for one.

If you do use Chassis Saver, clean your gun RIGHT AWAY after you finish. Clean your skin right away too...because once it's dry, it's gonna be on your skin for well over a week, no matter how much you scrub.

Crazier

Plans include 2 inch drop spindle S10 components with s10 disk brakes. Lowering the rear is not something I am capable of at the moment, and I think I am going to like the profile with a lowered front, we will see though.

I used Rustoleum engine enamel on the frame becouse the engine sits right on or right next to a large section of the frame. I am not sure how that will work out for the actual bottom side of the frame, but I guess I can repaint it later if it starts showing wear.

Crazier

I was planning to go get my new flywheel tomorrow, had found this information.

"To fit a 5.3L/6.0L to an 'old school' style manual transmission this is what you need:
- Flywheel from a '06 4.8L or 6.0L, they are the same flywheel. It is thicker to make up for the .400" difference. you do not need a spacer. The flywheel can be had new in the aftermarket for $60, Sachs NFW1050.
- This flywheel is drilled for the old school chevy 12" clutch cover and uses 3/8" shoulder bolts to bolt the cover plate on. So you have to open the holes to match the 10mx1.5m bolt holes in the flywheel. And run the LS style metric bolts sold everywhere.
- You will need an extended pilot bearing. GM 12557583"

and then another thread saying how that didn't work and Id need a "Turboglide Adapter" and yet another saying to use a Dorman pilot bushing bearing Part #690-035.


Anyone know for sure what to use on an old school Saginaw trans with an 05 silverado L33?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

If your trans mates to a SBC, it should bolt to an LS if the bellhousing is big enough for an 11" clutch or you can use a 621 bellhousing.
BTW any chance you're going to paint that beast flat back?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-ls-motor.html
Hey, can you see ANYTHING out the rear window on that?

Emdmechanic

iTrader: (2)

The sky...lol

Crazier

Is there a difference in the width/length of 621? verses the 403?

the motor in the valk sits very very close to the backseats, and since the trans and diff bolt directly to the motor and the axle shafts there is not a lot of space to be had, I know I am going to have to modify the engine mounts so all I am worried about now is the space.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Don't worry about killing teenage boys, you are going to kill that girl having her clean a car frame being held up half *** by a wooden pallet.
Come on guy safety first!
Other than that nice project.

tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

is this a front or mid eng engine car???

Crazier

LOL, actually I had to chase her away from it several times becouse it wasnt exaclty safe, she helped scrape a lot of the top but couldnt understand why I didnt want her help scraping the bottom. She had put her dress on to go play with the girl next door and when I got back from the auto parts store I found her bare footed, in her Rapunzel dress covered in rust dust scraping like mad with the smallest brush I had. It was just to cute and I had to take a picture before I chased her away. If it had fallen it would have landed on the mounts for the 4 suspensions points, potentially damaging them, but actual persons were in little danger.

It is a mid engined car, the crank pulley will be only inches from the backs of the seat.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

As far as I know, chevy has only ever had 1 input shaft length. Trucks had larger bearing retainers, but that's about it. I've got a 10 spline muncie sirring in the garage. If you need any measurements, let me know.

Crazier

Hmmm, I was kinda planning to run this at the drags.
With the motor between me and the clutch I had never considered needing a scatter shield.
I am sort of guessing that they are not going to bypass the requirements for it just becouse the clutch inst under my legs?

I am guessing that an appropriate blowproof bell houseing would be required and take up the same amount of space.


Edit, I know the power to weight ratio is going to make it pretty fast, however, what are the chances I am going to run so fast as to need the SFI bellhouseing clutch and pressure plate? I will not have tons of power or be spinning at 8k rpms, the spider gears are going to blow before anything else. If I do run too fast once, I will just make sure it inst at the track closest to me and then see if they will let me pass tech with a ballistic blanket, failing all that I will just dial it in to run slower. In a couple years when I add the turbo and the 4 spider gear diff I will have to go with SFI clutch components ect.

Crazier

621 bell housing purchased on ebay. $160, new rubber boot $15, inspection cover $25 shipping $25, $225 total, Sachs flywheel at Oreilly's $55. so $3230 so far, I havent settled on a clutch or throw out bearing yet, nor a master and slave combination.

Cheapest hydrolic kit I've found is for a VW buggy conversion at $182, but I am not sure it will provide enough force and I have been wondering if there wasnt some junkyard parts that that would work better and cheaper.

I cant wait to get that thing bolted in.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Dont forget the LS7 pilot bearing
And if you want any dimensions, let me know.

Crazier

As long as the combination doesn't get longer all should be well, plenty of room left to right top and bottom, only front and back gets hairy.

Having to change bell housings and therefore clutches is putting a big dent in my budget, old clutch and pressure plate had 7k miles on them, was just going to use them, so this adds about $500 to the project. But I suppose using a clutch set up that's been setting for 30+ years is probably not the greatest idea, still, between that and the front end bushings being shot I am hurting dollar wise.

Your write up on the transmission mating is incredible, detailed and thorough, including all the part numbers makes you a tech write up god in my book. I've printed the entire thing to take with me to the parts store tomorrow.

I am at that stage where nothing is going fast enough, I hate waiting for parts, but I know that soon I am going to be wiring and debugging that computer, and it scares the hell out of me, Like i was just reading about converting the spedo to VSS and my spedo runs off the front tire, and I have to figure out if its possible to hook the appropriate sensor to my tranny, or if I can somehow use the same front tire set up, or if the requirement for that sensor can be cut out of the program?

Crazier

Got the call today, motor is waiting at the terminal.

I built an A frame to hang the engine from in the back yard under a tree.

four 4x4's make the two legs, braced crosswise by two 2x4's each, connected with 7 inch lag bolts left over from my deck, I used two 4x4's for the cross member becouse I was afraid of one breaking under the load and I didn't want to go buy a 2x6 I tested it with about 575 pounds and it didn't budge.

Hillbilly engineering at its finest I know, but I couldn't afford a house with a real garage after the divorce and make due with what I have. Now I just need to go buy some chain and a come along and I should be ready to hoist it and stare at it to figure out how to mount it.
'
car came wit ha Hurst "universal" engine front mount, but I am not holding my breath that it will fit the L33

sierrac3_s2000

iTrader: (6)

Are the upper spring pockets supposed to be at different heights? That seems really odd.