superbean

Caddilac CTSV pan, very shallow holds 6 quarts, rear sump with lots of k member clearance.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

still hangs down below the K member quite a bit...but not as much as a truck pan

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Exactly. That one looks good initially but the prices add up quick


That is definitely a nice pan, but by the time I bought everything I need, I would have more in my oil pan than I paid for my motor and transmission lol

Anyone used the Holley stuff yet?

I know a couple of guys have used this one:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...ductId=1221210



Its a really good price. It hangs lower than the F-body pan, but not as low as the truck pan.

MustangLS used it on his car

TeamZmotorsports

I got a question, It seams everyone is worried about the pan hanging low like in the picture above, is this correct?
As a chassis builder I work off of a Crank CL measurement, I like to get the engine lower than the stock location, I can easily move the engine up to fit the F body pan if that's what most run, but again I'm going by what the SBF fox body guys have been doing for 20 years, and the canton and most aftermarket pans (nobody runs a stock ford pan) have large rear sumps and hang below the K member.
We will get this right as soon as I can get an F body and CTSV pan!

Again ths one doesn't look too bad!
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...ductId=1221210

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

what it comes down to is Daily Driver or Track car....
Daily Driver guys worry about the pan hanging low...because... well.. its a daily driver...and smacking the pan on a rock or a hump at any kind of speed is going to cause damage and a huge oil leak, which could lead to engine failure if you dont catch it right away and shut down the car.

the other problem with Just lowering the motor, is you have to account for teh change in angle...
if you lower it, you change the way the driveline lines up...its no longer a straight shot(I'm sure you know this Dave)
so maybe you make 2 versions... one for racecar guys who just want as low as they can safely get for lower center of gravity and instant center with a driveline angle correction built into it...
and one for street car guys that just want stock crank location and angle with the stock driveline angle.


I myself have one that I will be changing out to a different version or a different K-member eventually so that I can get the motor down lower...I already think I'm too high as it is. I only want another inch or so..maybe 2 from where I'm at..but I cant do it with the current pan and Team Z k-member

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Here are part numbers for the CTS-V pan from this thread:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...x-mustang.html

I went with the CTS-V pan, with the AJE k-member it fits beautifully. I got the pan, the pickup tube, the dipstick, and the dipstick tube for $205.55 from partstaxi.com, all brand new OEM GM parts. The windage tray from the truck motors is the same as the CTS so that is not needed.


12631828 - CTS-V Pan, Gasket, and bolts

12621299 - CTS-V Pickup tube/screen

12584738 - CTS-V Dipstick Tube

12584737 - CTS-V Dipstick

ronnieforrester

iTrader: (3)

I think people just want to be able to use either car or truck pan. Im going to try to stick with the truck pan for now.

most of us doing these swaps are starting off with $200-$300 truck engines and would like to have options other than higher end oil pans that cost more than our junkyard motors.

Im not sure if both pans work with the AJE stuff or not.

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

The aje will accept the truck or f body

Raising the engine is not going to make the pan clear unless it is 6" from the pan rail to the top of the cross tube and rack.
I am going to get the aje out of my car this week and see where it is at.

I don't want the pan hanging down there is no reason when pans are avalible that don't hang down.

Tim

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Truck pan hangs down with the aje as well. I went with the fbody pan.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

I actually made the decision to Cut and Tig weld my stock Fbody pan to work with the team Z K-member..
since I use a motor plate, I dont have to be at a set height...
I want to get the motor lower than where it is now.
the only way to do that is to either buy a different pan, or modify this one on the cheap.
obviously I'm choosing the cheaper method.

I only removed about an inch and a half from the front vertical piece...
essentially just extending the shallow portion of the pan back an inch and a half
which gives me clearance to get the engine down a little lower and it still doesnt hang below the K member.
it also makes it so I can get a better Driveline angle to begin with and a lower center of gravity.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

AJE with the gm muscle car pan which is actually a bit more shallow than the truck pan it looks a bit worse than it is due to the angle, it was about an inch lower:



Have not gotten one with the fbody, but it is about a half inch above the kmember...much better.

Capown

iTrader: (5)

My AJE setup with CTS V pan hangs down maybe 3/4"

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, that was what I wanted to avoid, so I went with the Fbody pan. Had I not gotten such a good deal on it, I would have went with the Holley Pan. Those are nice units!

GMTech297

Scroll Down The page on this link...

http://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LSx.php

linicklo

thats a nice page full of info, wish it had gen IV truck info also

LSFOX

iTrader: (1)

For those of you running the AJE K-Member, What headers are you running? Are you running tubular or stock A-arms?

I read on Dynatech's website you need an aftermarket steering shaft.... but on Jegs it says you don't

I want to put a K-member in my 94-98 build and try to keep costs down. So I was thinking AJE w/ spring perches, stock A-arms and Dynatech Headers, with a CTSV pan.

Anyone running something like this?

dmracing

iTrader: (80)

BRP mounts, Hedman 1 7/8 to 2 inch step headers, BBK lower springs,CTSV, and k member.
The camera is actually sitting on the ground.

Adam253

Has anybody used a Racecraft or AFCO K-member?? I talked to racecraft the other day and the only thing I didn't like is that you have to use their manual pinto rack. I'm looking for a best member for mostly street driving.

To add another question to this thread, How high are the motors sitting with these different members? What motor mount work best for hood clearance?

I want to run a super Vic JR manifold with a 2" cowl. So the motor needs to be sitting low.

Any info on this would be great

Adam253

So no racecraft or afco? What about upr??

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

vic Jr with a 2" cowl will not be a problem

how high they sit is a relative term....
total height is based off of ride height...
but in general, the water pump/heater outlets are about the same height as the Frame Rails, give or take a little depending onw which k-member and which way you mount the motor...

being on a motor plate, I sit lower than most people as I have set mind down as low as I can.