Project-89 Coupe LSX Re-swap, now going turbo
#81
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The alternator bracket is off a camaro. I went to GM and ordered mine, not really any cheaper anywhere else. I checked ebay, gmpartsdirect.com and several other places but I just paid the few extra dollars if any and had it that weekend I needed it. I bought my harness from a local guy who was doing the swap and decided to part the car out. It was brand new still and I thought he told me it was a PSI harness but come to find out its an SSP I believe. I have no complaints about the harness as of yet. Everything plugged in and was labeled nice and neat, so I guess we will we how it works! lol
#82
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My pressure plates are made in Michigan and my frictions are from Washington; if you want anymore info on my "boutique clutch company" just give me a shout at 817-750-2000, my name is Steve and I'm the owner.
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Sorry for the hijack OP, badass build you've got going here!
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#83
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What year Camaro is the alt bracket from? Have you figured out the throttle cable yet?
I just removed mine for weight reduction and transfer. It wasn't in the way of the motor, just didn't want it lol. And I decided to remove the AC. I want it to be as light as possible but still be basically a 100% street car. Power steering and AC are the only major things I am taking off the car.
The alternator bracket is off a camaro. I went to GM and ordered mine, not really any cheaper anywhere else. I checked ebay, gmpartsdirect.com and several other places but I just paid the few extra dollars if any and had it that weekend I needed it. I bought my harness from a local guy who was doing the swap and decided to part the car out. It was brand new still and I thought he told me it was a PSI harness but come to find out its an SSP I believe. I have no complaints about the harness as of yet. Everything plugged in and was labeled nice and neat, so I guess we will we how it works! lol
The alternator bracket is off a camaro. I went to GM and ordered mine, not really any cheaper anywhere else. I checked ebay, gmpartsdirect.com and several other places but I just paid the few extra dollars if any and had it that weekend I needed it. I bought my harness from a local guy who was doing the swap and decided to part the car out. It was brand new still and I thought he told me it was a PSI harness but come to find out its an SSP I believe. I have no complaints about the harness as of yet. Everything plugged in and was labeled nice and neat, so I guess we will we how it works! lol
#84
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And no, haven't messed with the throttle cable yet. ACtually probably won't be able to work on it much the next few weeks but if I do it will be wiring. We decided it would be better to run all new wiring, so I am stripping the factory ford wiring harness completely out and putting in a new 14 circuit 12 fuse wiring harness to re-wire the whole car. I thought it would be too much of a pain to go through the Ford harness and didn't wanna leave the whole harness just tucked up under the dash, knowing it would look like $hit up there. Waiting on a few packages to arrive, will post pics of the new goodies tho!
#86
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Well here's what I've been up to and the newest part for the car. Thought we were headed in the right direction and making progress but I wanted to switch a few things up. Decided to put a 10pt cage in it and change the interior from gray to black.
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/24D2D027-8F92-4952-AB5F-B2E35D412DCE-51356-00002FC7076BCF5C.jpg)
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/2F211F5B-34F5-4C5B-974D-B0B4D6E9F72D-51356-00002FC783342507.jpg)
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/2EFB683A-2C4A-42A9-830C-7FC941C864F0-52483-000030CA2CA6E3EB.jpg)
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/BCA2AB61-18FC-484B-A4C4-620C8A8C9E88-52504-000030D15E6F7C85.jpg)
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/C10A1284-BD83-49FD-819D-1B3D731C2CD1-52504-000030D1839BE890.jpg)
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/24D2D027-8F92-4952-AB5F-B2E35D412DCE-51356-00002FC7076BCF5C.jpg)
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/2F211F5B-34F5-4C5B-974D-B0B4D6E9F72D-51356-00002FC783342507.jpg)
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/2EFB683A-2C4A-42A9-830C-7FC941C864F0-52483-000030CA2CA6E3EB.jpg)
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/BCA2AB61-18FC-484B-A4C4-620C8A8C9E88-52504-000030D15E6F7C85.jpg)
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/C10A1284-BD83-49FD-819D-1B3D731C2CD1-52504-000030D1839BE890.jpg)
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/41835EB2-7869-47B8-B27C-112B48BA5A58-37885-00002230F0F23293.jpg)
#87
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I am going with a painless 18 circut to re-wire my 89 coupe as well. The ford harness would indeed be to much of a pain to go through and there is always that increased risk of fire with the old stuff. I'm very curious to see how you do yours. I will take tons of pics of mine in process so we can compare "notes" if needed lol.
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Your kit pic looks alot like the S&W kit I put in my Mustang back in 2002.
If it is the S&W, before welding the A pillar bars (run down the sides of the windshield) test fit them, and estimate the angle which they are required to bend at the base of the windshield to tuck the bars in close to the A pillar while fitting through the speaker holes in the dash. Then take them to a muffler shop to have them bent before welding them in. You will also have to re-notch the top where they connect to the halo.
You don't have to do this, but doing so will help alot with the blind spot the S&W bar creates on the drivers side. Actually every kit I've ever seen creates the same blind spot to some extent, so test fitting before welding is always a good idea.
If it is the S&W, before welding the A pillar bars (run down the sides of the windshield) test fit them, and estimate the angle which they are required to bend at the base of the windshield to tuck the bars in close to the A pillar while fitting through the speaker holes in the dash. Then take them to a muffler shop to have them bent before welding them in. You will also have to re-notch the top where they connect to the halo.
You don't have to do this, but doing so will help alot with the blind spot the S&W bar creates on the drivers side. Actually every kit I've ever seen creates the same blind spot to some extent, so test fitting before welding is always a good idea.
#89
Launching!
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I am going with a painless 18 circut to re-wire my 89 coupe as well. The ford harness would indeed be to much of a pain to go through and there is always that increased risk of fire with the old stuff. I'm very curious to see how you do yours. I will take tons of pics of mine in process so we can compare "notes" if needed lol.
Your kit pic looks alot like the S&W kit I put in my Mustang back in 2002.
If it is the S&W, before welding the A pillar bars (run down the sides of the windshield) test fit them, and estimate the angle which they are required to bend at the base of the windshield to tuck the bars in close to the A pillar while fitting through the speaker holes in the dash. Then take them to a muffler shop to have them bent before welding them in. You will also have to re-notch the top where they connect to the halo.
You don't have to do this, but doing so will help alot with the blind spot the S&W bar creates on the drivers side. Actually every kit I've ever seen creates the same blind spot to some extent, so test fitting before welding is always a good idea.
If it is the S&W, before welding the A pillar bars (run down the sides of the windshield) test fit them, and estimate the angle which they are required to bend at the base of the windshield to tuck the bars in close to the A pillar while fitting through the speaker holes in the dash. Then take them to a muffler shop to have them bent before welding them in. You will also have to re-notch the top where they connect to the halo.
You don't have to do this, but doing so will help alot with the blind spot the S&W bar creates on the drivers side. Actually every kit I've ever seen creates the same blind spot to some extent, so test fitting before welding is always a good idea.
#90
Launching!
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Not a whole lot to update on as I haven't had much time to work on it. The whole car is re-wired and the engine is basically ready to go. Just waiting on my fuel pressure regulator and fitting for it to come in and she will be ready to start. This sunday should be an awesome day, run fuel line and hook up regulator and turn the key. If all goes as planned she will start lol. If that happens we will start on the cage. Hoping to have the car completed in the next 4 weeks or so if everything goes as planned...
On a side note, anyone know how to wire the factory heater switches into a new harness? That's the only thing left to do wiring wise. Figured out how to turn it on but not how to control everything else.
On a side note, anyone know how to wire the factory heater switches into a new harness? That's the only thing left to do wiring wise. Figured out how to turn it on but not how to control everything else.
#91
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Well yesterday was a damn good day! All my parts came in so we were able to do the whole fuel system, make a new and improved trans mount/cross member, finish wiring the engine harness..... Oh and fire that b!tch up!
Fuel pressure regulator
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/CA7FB681-488D-48F7-A009-A0CA0F127338-7891-00000626BEE5ABA7.jpg)
Start up video
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/d...225B957646.mp4
Fuel pressure regulator
![](http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd177/95civic2005/1989%20Mustang/CA7FB681-488D-48F7-A009-A0CA0F127338-7891-00000626BEE5ABA7.jpg)
Start up video
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/d...225B957646.mp4
#93
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IIRC NHRA rules states that a fuel regulator is not to be mounted to the firewall, just giving you a heads up incase u plan on running at the track.
Its suppose to be a certain distance away from the fleplate/flywheel/clutch.
Other wise, looking good.
Its suppose to be a certain distance away from the fleplate/flywheel/clutch.
Other wise, looking good.
#94
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Thanks guys and there was someone on a local mustang ste that said the same thing about the fuel pressure regulator. Sucks because I know as soon as I take it off there will be scrath marks under where it was mounted.
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So did you happen to get any deailed pics of the wiring process? I have been tracing the circuts on mine to get all the connectors i will need and also re-pinning the tail-light and headlight harness to each be a single plug connction.
#97
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Magnafuel 9925. They normally come in blue and blue but I couldn't put a purple and blue regulator on my car lol. I looked on ebay and there are 2 dealers on there that have black ones. Those are the only 2 places I have found black ones period.
No I didn't but it's honestly not too bad. If you have any questions or anything PM me and we can talk. I am normally over working on my car on Sundays so I can tell you basically anything you would need to know with the car sitting in front of me or could take pics of it. Only thing we have to figure out is how to get all the heater controls to work. Haven't a clue on that.
No I didn't but it's honestly not too bad. If you have any questions or anything PM me and we can talk. I am normally over working on my car on Sundays so I can tell you basically anything you would need to know with the car sitting in front of me or could take pics of it. Only thing we have to figure out is how to get all the heater controls to work. Haven't a clue on that.
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Gotcha, if you don't mind post up your results from the track if you make it out.[/QUOTE]
Finally got a chance to make it to the track with my car. My tach was messed up and i had to use the nitrous window switch mounted on the floor to shift it but still managed a best of 11.2 at 128.7. Only got a couple passes and didnt get any good launches out of it. Might make a thread when we get the videos edited.
Finally got a chance to make it to the track with my car. My tach was messed up and i had to use the nitrous window switch mounted on the floor to shift it but still managed a best of 11.2 at 128.7. Only got a couple passes and didnt get any good launches out of it. Might make a thread when we get the videos edited.
#99
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Very nice! You mind sharing your setup? How big of a shot?
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Finally got a chance to make it to the track with my car. My tach was messed up and i had to use the nitrous window switch mounted on the floor to shift it but still managed a best of 11.2 at 128.7. Only got a couple passes and didnt get any good launches out of it. Might make a thread when we get the videos edited.
stock lq4 down to the oil pump, cnc ported 243s milled with brian tooley springs, eps 226/234 cam, proflo intake and tb, kooks headers, 3" with xpipe, 4.10 gears, built t56. That pass was on motor tried to make a pass on the 100 shot and it went slower bc i couldnt keep it off the rev limiter. Only had 24 degrees of timing in it too, bc we planned on spraying it.
playing around on a friends dyno on the 150 shot