rainracer

Norb,

I went back over your thread and found something that you should address now so you do not have an issue when you drive it and shift hard to second/fourth/sixth - you should weld a stop on your shifter shaft in the location that I highlighted to prevent the stick from loosening up during a hard shift - just a piece of .250 x .250 x 1.00 mild steel welded to the stick to provide a good mechanical stop. I personally like short shifters that are out of the way - high speed hard corners (ie turn 12 Road Atlanta) will make you want your new armrest moved out of the way ;-)

Jerry

REDL1NE

iTrader: (5)

Just saw this thread somehow. Love the project. Really nice to see this. Well done!

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Jerry, sharp eye. I initially installed the shifter like that and then sat down in the driver's seat, and began doing the usual "vroom vroom noises and test shifter placement". One mild effort shift from 3rd to 4th loosened the shifter rod right away. I went back to the bench, retightened the assembly like crazy on the vise, and reinstalled. Better, but not good enough to be all set for worry-free use for the next couple of years. I ended up welding up a shortened tab on top of the factory Camaro shifter and drilled another hole to allow for a 2nd bolt to go through. Few minutes with a drill and metric tap and now we have 2 bolts restricting movement fully in that axis. I didn’t have the sense to snap any pictures of that, but now it doesn’t move at all, even when slamming gears.

Seeing as this is a street car that won’t ever see the track, the shifter suits me fine for now—if it ever turns into a pain all it will take is 10 minutes to remove 2 bolts, chop it with the cutoff wheel, reweld, and done. The nice thing about expanding the shifter hole is that now I can remove the shifter completely from the transmission (the OEM pivot device) from inside the car. Don’t have to drop the trans or anything.

Thank you. It’s a lot of labor and time involved. Steel OEM stamped manifolds arrived today so I’ll be jumping into those when I get home.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Halfway through building manifolds/headers now. 2-1/4” mandrel bent mild steel that will be welded to the OEM BMW ball flange for compatibility with the stock exhaust. The 1 piece BMW headerback exhaust is staying almost nearly stock, with the exceptions of the modifications I made to it over the last year or two, which includes a 3” QTP cutout y –pipe before the Y-res, deleted scuba tanks, and Y-res converted to M5 style by adding a turndown in the “dead end” portion (dual dumps now instead of single). If you count the cutout pipe, I actually have 3 dumps underneath the car. I plan on welding a 3 bolt flange (have a few laying around) to the Y-res dumps so that I can tune the exhaust sound to my liking by simply adding a cap-off plate where necessary.

I was searching for a stock LS1 fuel rail/injectors online, and stumbled upon a screaming deal for an LS6 intake, throttle body, higher flowing Ford injectors, and OEM fuel rail for $300 shipped. Can’t beat that. It’ll be here tomorrow.

Took the day off on MLK Jr day. Bundled up with my fiancée (only about 20*F here this week) and drove out to the metal yard to scrap the BMW pre-cats in the headers. $75 for both.

Next stop was the junkyard. Grabbed a set of 8 EV1 injector pigtails and 90* intake elbow off a 1998 Cadillac Deville, a set of slim(ish) cooling fans out of a 2005ish Monte Carlo (along with mounting brackets, rubber isolators, and harness/pigtails), and a M60 intake manifold off an E32 that I will sell. I may be back to grab a few more things off the E32, namely the magnesium valve covers, the OEM HID headlights, a sidemarker, and anything else that I can sell. What an odd design throughout that engine bay. Brake booster by the headlights, coolant tank by the cowl, front hinged hood. Cool stuff.

Wish we had more euro-based u-pull yards locally, I forgot how much fun (and how cheap) it was to go “pickin”.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Since it's too cold to work in the garage and fab the manifolds, I figured I'd start on the harness in my living room.

few questions regarding wiring the LQ4.

I'm at the point in my swap where I'd like to start cleaning up the GM harness for use in my car.

I don't want to tackle GM w/ BMW wiring integration yet, because I'd like to have a cleaned up GM harness first. The harness I have is an uncut, OEM stock harness that came with my LQ4--all out of a 2003 Chevy Express Van. I'd like to unwrap my harness, remove any unnecessary circuits/connectors (depin them as well) and shorten/lengthen the remainder of the GM harness to fit the dimensions of my engine bay.

The harness PCM connectors are BLUE/GREEN on my harness, so I'm following this website for reference:

I am using this website for all my reference.
http://www.lt1swap.com/2004vortec_pcm.htm

I am running a T56 from a 2002 Camaro SS for trans.

Ok, now that the backstory is through

1. Which circuits are unnecessary for this swap?

Right off the bat, I plan on deleting the 2nd O2 sensors and VATS when I have the PCM tuned.

I would assume these are the 2nd O2 pins to be removed?
Pin 25 TAN 1671 HO2S Low Signal - Bank 2 Sensor 2
Pin 28 TAN/WHT 1669 HO2S Low Signal - Bank 1 Sensor 2

Is VATS only removed via tune, or are there wires as well to remove from the harness?

What about removing anything in the harness labeled for automatic transmission?

For example,
Pin 32 Transmission Range Switch Signal A (A/T)
Pin 72 Transmission Range Switch Signal B (A/T)
Pin 32 AT ISS Low Signal (4WD w/MT1)

I'm running neither 4WD nor A/T so it makes sense to me that they'd come out, but the website does not make mention of removing these.

2. How is the OEM GM automatic harness supposed to interface with the T56 manual? Although my T56 came with all sensors, I don't have any of the "connectors/pigtails" that plug into the T56 since my harness is from an Auto.

3. While at the junkyard, I picked up EV1 connectors that I'll resolder into the harness to be able to run a car style intake and injectors. No brainer there. While at the junkyard, I also grabbed a dual fan setup out of a 2005ish Monte Carlo (harness included, I clipped it well aft of the pigtails, which are still plugged into the fans. Would controlling the GM Monte Carlo fans with the Van PCM be as easy as adding pinouts into the van harness? Are there already pins there for contolling (what were) the van fans? The stock van fans had to have been controlled somehow.

HectorM52

iTrader: (5)

Did a similar swap recently...

I kinda skimmed most of your thread...but your questions intrigued me...so bear with my questions if they've already been answered.

1) Did your engine have DBW (drive by wire)? If so, you can eliminate any of those wires, there were a few if I'm not mistaken.
Auto tranny wires.
Rear o2 sensors.
Coolant level switch.
Fuel temp.
Probably one of your serial data wires (ask your programmer)
Secondary fuel pump
4wd stuff
Evap (I'd get rid of this, personally, just to clean up and eliminate future issues)

2) You're just going to have to get with your programmer and find out what pins control the T56 stuff, then pick up some connectors. Shouldn't be too big of an issue. Though I'd probably ask around or research if it might be better to pick up an f-body PCM rather than trying to use the truck PCM.

3) I believe that the guy from LT1swap.com can program the fan turn-on circuits into the truck PCM (he's got them listed in that spreadsheet). Might want to hit him up if you need a programmer. He did mine. The truck PCM did not have wires in those slots since there were no electric fans (as far as I remember).

Hope that helps. Subscribed!

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I believe you're right. The TBSS didn't come with e-fans, but there were plug, program, and play kits available in the aftermarket. Should be a similar method here, but with more wiring integration into his existing harness.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Check this thread out for some wiring tips.....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...sion-info.html

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

It hit me like a bag of hammers last night that the van used a mechanical clutch activated fan on the water pump (like the BMW) and therefore didn’t need e-fan pins. Thanks for the tips!

Why remove the coolant level switch? I mean, I planned on using the BMW cooling hose (with coolant level sensor in it), but what does this do in the GM harness? How does it work?
They used a fuel TEMP sensor? Wow.
I also wanted to keep evap to avoid any emissions problems since the car must pass inspection here in NYS. I planned on using the GM OBD2 port and having the GM PCM trigger the check engine light, and if all is ok on the GM side as far as sensor readiness, then it shouldn’t be a problem.

HectorM52

iTrader: (5)

The low coolant switch, if I remember correctly, is just a dummy light in the dash. If you have a similar dummy light in the Bimmer, then, by all means, keep it. Otherwise, it serves no purpose (unless, of course, you wire in your own light, which wouldn't be a horrible idea). You may get lucky and the Bimmer switch works like the GM switch, then I would think it would just be a wire from that switch INTO the PCM, then the PCM outputs that "signal" to your dummy light. It's all just research to see if the switches are compatible. Just dig in further.

Here in Atlanta, we have one of the strictest sniffer tests (for pre-96 vehicles) in the nation (after Cali). My swap passed just fine (it was an LT1 swap, but same difference). One reason I'd suggest deleting it is because the Evap systems in the Silverados are causing issues in the later-model trucks. I don't know anyone with these specific model years, so ho help there. But, again, one less system to worry about failing or causing trouble. Plus, it just LOOKS better without it!! And I'm about that "subtle" look under the hood.

You should definitely use the GM PCM to run the OBD2 ALDL port. Like you said, if all systems are go, then you shouldn't have any issue passing emissions. I assume that all they do up there is "plug in" and look, no sniffer tests, so it should be even easier!

Rauq

iTrader: (1)

I love the project! I'm going to pass this on to a hardcore BMW friend of mine. I like the wheels, you wouldn't ever consider selling them would you...

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, they don't do a sniffer test up here, only a OBD2 port plug in. Any codes and you automatically fail.

My car originally came with Style 66s, which were nice enough, but I wasn't a huge fan. I recalled seeing the M-Parallels on a local's E36 M3, and knew I had to have them. I'm never much of an aesthetic person besides making sure the car is clean but I am a sucker for that timeless design.

So no, I don't want to sell them

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Thank god for HPTuners

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Can HPTuners really code out/delete each and every single code that pops up, and eliminate it from being triggered again?

If so, holy ****

I'm used to the Nissan world which is fairly limited in terms of newer tuning. On my Spec V you could never "turn off" a code, only read them and then tune for AFR with a piggyback device like an SAFC.

On my fiancee's Audi A4 (2007) we coded a few things with a friend's VAG-COM, but you have to know what you're doing to do that.

I can't afford HP Tuners but I'm interested in reading more about the capabilities of it

jbridwelltransam

iTrader: (12)

pretty interesting build man.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

I'm not saying what it can/cannot do, but let's just say its worth every penny!!! Haha



Try and source one used. Make sure it has credits available under the license. Or you need to find one that was used on a car with the same PCM as you....2002 Chevy Camaro, 1998 Pontiac Firebird, etc. I forget what they charge for the credits if you need to buy them from HPTuners. Check their website.

02SOMSS

iTrader: (10)

Yes, it is great.

vazfx16

Nice. I will be following since I am starting this on an E34 right now. Currently I am doing the harness.

supra94tt

Damn you guys with "these" LSx swaps, lol, , now I kind of regret that's the route I did not go for , and instead went with the SC kit, but it was a cakewalk install though .
I thought somebody on BF sells the engine mount bracket kits, no?

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

yes, a guy on there produces both mounts and headers for the swap into an 8 cylinder chassis. but i'm cheap, and i don't mind banging some metal, so i'm making my own.

also, i bought my motor, harness, PCM, and transmission for about the same price as the mounts/headers.