ls1 way too rich
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
ls1 way too rich finally got my ls1 mustang on the road. seems to idle alright but whenever i give it gas it seems to flood and will almost die if i give it full throttle. smells of raw fuel. its currently running open headers until tomorrow and the o2s arent plugged in, is this the only reason for this symptom?
the o2s arent plugged in, is this the only reason for this symptom?
That with the fact that you have open headers is going to make for a stinky stinky car.
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During my conversion I ran into the rich issue for a few reasons:
1. O2 sensors- tuner will turn off the rear O2
2. Water temp sensor - I tapped off the computer to feed my Autometer gage...big no no. It was reading -40 degrees on a 90 degree day. You must use a seperate sensor in the passenger head.
3. MAF - needs to be plugged in and properly plummed.
4. Vacuum leaks - make sure all the extra ports are plugged.
5. Factory tune was really rich on the dyno.
The good news is my stock 2003 LS1 made 350 rwhp once tuned.
1. O2 sensors- tuner will turn off the rear O2
2. Water temp sensor - I tapped off the computer to feed my Autometer gage...big no no. It was reading -40 degrees on a 90 degree day. You must use a seperate sensor in the passenger head.
3. MAF - needs to be plugged in and properly plummed.
4. Vacuum leaks - make sure all the extra ports are plugged.
5. Factory tune was really rich on the dyno.
The good news is my stock 2003 LS1 made 350 rwhp once tuned.
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Verdad Gallardo Unplug your water temp sensor and see if it is any better.
Also try holding your hand over the MAF with fingers slightly spread. My idle picked up with a little restriction.
The real problem with mine was it was not seeing the TPS because I had converted from DBW to DBC. Once we put the tune in from a 2002 TA it ran very well.
Also try holding your hand over the MAF with fingers slightly spread. My idle picked up with a little restriction.
The real problem with mine was it was not seeing the TPS because I had converted from DBW to DBC. Once we put the tune in from a 2002 TA it ran very well.
Needs a tune I'm sure... what mods does it have?
Do you have larger than stock injectors? If so, there is your problem - don't run it until you get a base tune in it or you risk washing it out. At the very least, you will foul the plugs.
The coolant temp sensor has to be hooked up - don't unhook it as directed above - that will cause it to run way rich too... IAT sensor needs to be hooked up as well...
Do you have larger than stock injectors? If so, there is your problem - don't run it until you get a base tune in it or you risk washing it out. At the very least, you will foul the plugs.
The coolant temp sensor has to be hooked up - don't unhook it as directed above - that will cause it to run way rich too... IAT sensor needs to be hooked up as well...
It wants to die because it's flooding but when I unplug the maf it will idle decently.
Get it tuned.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Would the mail order tune allow me to at least get it on the road if I drive it conservatively. Only mods are a zo6 cam and springs done by the previous owner of the actual engine. All sensors are hooked up
Yes, a mail order tune would get you a base tune. Sounds like some parts not matched to the PCM are the culprit... unplugging the MAF is only part of it from what you said above. The tune in the PCM has to be accurate for the injectors, MAF, etc - when doing swaps/conversions, if various parts are put together that don't match the tune you will have this kind of problem...
A tuner will need to know exactly what is in the car as far as injectors, MAF, heads/cam, fuel system (including regulator) and probably a few other details...
Your other option would be to trailer it to a tuner... or get tuning software and tune it yourself...
A tuner will need to know exactly what is in the car as far as injectors, MAF, heads/cam, fuel system (including regulator) and probably a few other details...
Your other option would be to trailer it to a tuner... or get tuning software and tune it yourself...
I'm not a fan of mail order tunes..I do my own stuff with my own software.
There is a difference between "close enough to run" and spot on to the build IMO. Then again that depends on your tuning techniques.
There is a difference between "close enough to run" and spot on to the build IMO. Then again that depends on your tuning techniques.