1935 LS1 Buick

Firstly, I am new to LS1 motors... always a carb guy. I have a 1935 Buick that I stuffed a 2000 Camaro 5.7 & T56 into. I read the
LS1 Swap FAQ's by SatisTraction LS1 Swap FAQs

I think I have most of it down. All the pink, orange and grounds are connected properly. I still need to build VATS bypass as it dies shortly after it fires.

I have a question about a few things:
1) O2 sensors, I have headers and I read people are bypassing them. How do I do that?
2) EGR sensor, I know what it is, but it is missing and only the wire exists. The hose is crimped off. Do I need it to start/run motor?
3) Would it be worth the money to have a tuner wipe VATS, O2 and EGR?
4) Fuel, there is no return off the fuel rail. I have an inline pump and filter, suggestions?


BTW I am going 'street rat' with the Buick. New performance based drive line, updated safe suspension, air ride system, with a rat rod look. Flat black, front window only, no interior(spring seats with blankets) and header with 2' of exhaust so... a little loud

kwhizz

Save yourself a lot of headaches and call John at Speartech......He will tell you what to send him and all your electrical issues will be gone....

www.speartech.com

Ken

1936 LS1

iTrader: (10)

I like it! (For obvious reasons!)

1967BuickGS400

Nice project. Is that a 40 buick coupe next to it?

74modified

Nice
You would be better off with at least a basic tune - even mail order if nothing else.
You need the front O2s to run the injection, you don't need rears
You don't need the EGR if it is sealed off
You can have all the "un-needed" stuff tuned out. VATS, rear O2s, EGR, ect
and it will not throw codes for the missing stuff.
With no return, the easiest thing is to use the Corvette filter/regulator and have the return from there to tank.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

#1 You will need them for the EFI, you can delete the Rear O2. People have used O2 Sim's, but use a real one..

#2 Delete the EGR system and Wires, then have the Turner flash out that Code in the ECM

#3 Yes..

#4 the 99-02 LS1 is a returnless system, The pump and regulator is in the tank. If you are going External (suggest you read up on pro/cons). you will need a Regulator between the pump and the fuel rail with a return back to the tank. you could try the Vette FRP (GF 822) or use one of the many regulator and add a filter.

Is there a reason you want to go to External Pump, IMO, go Intank.. less failure, less noise. You need to make sure the pickup stays submerged in fuel, else you will starve the engine if the fuel pickup goes dry during a stop, start or turn. could cause a lean condition and damage the engine.

BC

1935 LS1 Buick

1936 LS1.... all I can say is sick. That is right where I am going with this project. Once I get it rolling I am going to drive it for a bit then make it a 2 door, 3" chop and roll cage it as mine is still all wood frame.

1967BuickGS400... correct year 1940, however it is a Plymouth. All mopar front to back 318 push button shift 700 with satellite rear end with original front.

74modified & bczee... thanks for the info. I think I will get it tuned and clear up all the extra stuff. Prob weld in O2 sensor pick up after the collector and move front O2 wires back to them and delete secondary ones.

I have original fuel tank (dipped and sealed) the car is very narrow and nothing else fits. So, I am running a external fuel pump. Pick up is 1/4 inch from bottom... best I can do for today.

-- Idea for fuel setup: pick up in tank then fuel filter with return port, fuel pump, regulator FRP (GF 822) (obviously one line to the rail) and one line back to return port in filter. What do you guys think?

psiconversion

iTrader: (5)

Regarding the VATs I would recommend eliminating it from the PCM. There are companies out there that sell vats bypass modules (signal generators) or you can build one yourself, but they can fail, so why bother risking it? Regarding the O2s, as stated above, I would recommend keeping them for better fuel economy and overall driveability. Eliminate the EGR and emissions as they are not necessary to make the vehicle run well. Hope that helps.

Jon
PSI

74modified

All of the advise above is good. Jon/PSI make a good harness if you want to go that way. If you stay stock harness, and depending where you mount the ECM, think about removing the rear O2 wires and insert them in the front O2 pin positions. Same color and connectors, but much longer wires.
Like bczee, I like in tank pumps. With the external, and no sump, you may have to keep a good level in the tank to prevent the pickup from sucking air.
Try to mount the pump lower than the tank bottom to keep a siphon action going.

Pure84GTT

if your a carb guy why not carb it ? the parts are readily available and easy to work with.