Manual Trans for LS in '66 A-body?
#1
Manual Trans for LS in '66 A-body?
my dad wanted to do a T56 in his '66 gto, but then read that you have to cut and clearance the trans tunnel. he doesnt want to do that, nor do i want to let him do that to that car.
i read something about smaller bodied aftermarket T56, magnum t56? or some kind of tko600 that was used in a 70 camaro swap.
anyone have some experience with putting a banger in a-body without floor modifications? and let me clarify, i dont want to use a 4-speed...im looking for something with atleast 1 overdrive gear
i read something about smaller bodied aftermarket T56, magnum t56? or some kind of tko600 that was used in a 70 camaro swap.
anyone have some experience with putting a banger in a-body without floor modifications? and let me clarify, i dont want to use a 4-speed...im looking for something with atleast 1 overdrive gear
#2
Richmond 5 or 6 speed will fit without mods.
TKOs generally need the tunnel cut.
I went a different rout, a T10 4 speed with 3.42 1st gear and a 2.73 rear. Almost like OD. Might even swap out for a 2.56 rear.
TKOs generally need the tunnel cut.
I went a different rout, a T10 4 speed with 3.42 1st gear and a 2.73 rear. Almost like OD. Might even swap out for a 2.56 rear.
#3
I went with a T-56 from D&D performance for my 67 GS400. I did have to modify the tunnel but it really wasnt that big of a deal. All you have to do is cut down the center of the tunnel and down to the floor at the fire wall. My brother and I had it done in an hour or so and it looks stock.
#4
You can also gain more trans tunnel clearance by keeping the Engine low and forward. Standard or +1" forward mounts.
This might help get more clearance.. but will lead to a different set of issue to work around (oil pan, crossmember, front accessories, steering box, etc, some will a problem and some will not).
Many will use what the call the T-Cut to make a simple cut, spread and fill in to enlarge the tunnel where needed. BRP Hot Rod used this and had it in a web artical on there side in the past.
just a thought...
BC
This might help get more clearance.. but will lead to a different set of issue to work around (oil pan, crossmember, front accessories, steering box, etc, some will a problem and some will not).
Many will use what the call the T-Cut to make a simple cut, spread and fill in to enlarge the tunnel where needed. BRP Hot Rod used this and had it in a web artical on there side in the past.
just a thought...
BC
#5
#7
i'm asking cause i'm looking to put a 4spd behind a LQ9 in a 69camaro, i've done all the research, already have the sachs 1050 flywheel but was hesitant to use it due to it being so damn heavy..! although it's going to be 90% street car it'll still see 6500 regularly...is it a bad idea to use this flywheel above 5500 rpm...? I guess I need to get a steel bellhousing..
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#8
Interesting question, is a thicker, heavier flywhhel more or less likely to come apart?
But if I was dropping the clutch at 6500 rpm, I would definitely get a really good bellhousing.
But if I was dropping the clutch at 6500 rpm, I would definitely get a really good bellhousing.
i'm asking cause i'm looking to put a 4spd behind a LQ9 in a 69camaro, i've done all the research, already have the sachs 1050 flywheel but was hesitant to use it due to it being so damn heavy..! although it's going to be 90% street car it'll still see 6500 regularly...is it a bad idea to use this flywheel above 5500 rpm...? I guess I need to get a steel bellhousing..
#10
26 lbs for the flywheel, 20 lbs for the pressure plate. Greater rotational mass equals a slower spool up. But coming out of the hole will be an advaantage. Flywheels store energy, so in drag racing the weight will be an advantage.