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Yup, been playing with that as well. Seems like anything 4500+ it blows the tires off if the track isn’t prepped really well. Usually have it around 4300 and leave at 4-5lbs.
If a car is not hooking, one thing we do is slow down the ramp rate of the boost... Bring it in slower.
Another thing is retard timing and bring it back in gradually. Anywhere from 6 to 10 degrees. But keep the boost where we had it. Like we we wanted to leave at 10 lbs.
Setup the boost by speed today with a $16 universal speed sensor kit. Wish I hadn't put this off so long. It was really easy! Rotating the wheel by hand it seems to register on the megasquirt fine. Haven't test driven yet. But I wired in teh boost control solenoid and set it up to work with the new sensor.
Cut a little notch in the brake disc and JB welded the magnet in place.
After setting up the boost by speed I notice more gold in my oil filter. Same deal #1 rod was trying to eat itself. Plasti-gage indicated I had no issue, but apparently that’s not the case. So I decided to do it “right” for once and dropped off the short block at a machine shop.
Took exactly 2 months to get the short block back. Had the crank/rods machined and the cyls honed. Honed the big ends of the rods they were a little off and my #1 rod journal was “egged slightly” (how the hell does that happen?) My guy went .0025 on the mains and .0027 on the rods and gave me the short block back last week.
Started assembling the long block Saturday evening. Had it back together and in the car by Sunday evening. Quick drive to the gas station and back. Nothing fell off or leaked. I’m calling it ready for 8’s.
After setting up the boost by speed I notice more gold in my oil filter. Same deal #1 rod was trying to eat itself. Plasti-gage indicated I had no issue, but apparently that’s not the case. So I decided to do it “right” for once and dropped off the short block at a machine shop.
Took exactly 2 months to get the short block back. Had the crank/rods machined and the cyls honed. Honed the big ends of the rods they were a little off and my #1 rod journal was “egged slightly” (how the hell does that happen?) My guy went .0025 on the mains and .0027 on the rods and gave me the short block back last week.
Started assembling the long block Saturday evening. Had it back together and in the car by Sunday evening. Quick drive to the gas station and back. Nothing fell off or leaked. I’m calling it ready for 8’s.
Third time’s the charm they say…
I feel like I need to do this... Except I need like 8th try to be my charm.
And find a real good machinist to take time and do it right.
I feel like I need to do this... Except I need like 8th try to be my charm.
And find a real good machinist to take time and do it right.
It’s hard these days. When you do find someone willing to do it, the turnaround time is ridiculous. A lot to be said for SBE builds. You already know the bottom end is happy. I’ve had nothing but bad luck with aftermarket parts and machining over the years.
It’s hard these days. When you do find someone willing to do it, the turnaround time is ridiculous. A lot to be said for SBE builds. You already know the bottom end is happy. I’ve had nothing but bad luck with aftermarket parts and machining over the years.
Yeah, that was my feeling as well. I put a stock untouched 4.8 short block in and tore it up in 200 miles. I just have absolutely **** luck with this thing
Took exactly 2 months to get the short block back. Had the crank/rods machined and the cyls honed. Honed the big ends of the rods they were a little off and my #1 rod journal was “egged slightly” (how the hell does that happen?)
It's the bolts that just don't repeat. Specially the stock ones. oil on the threads and extreme pressure lube under the head and they continue to measure different. Not sure which bolts you have but the now discontinued Katech bolts that I put in my LS3 rods impressed the hell out of the machine shop. They said the factory bolts distorted the big ends between .0008" and .001" but the K bolts only .0003"......so just a couple of licks on the rod hone machine to put a nice cross hatch (which grabs the back of the bearing shells) and they continued to repeat and measure round several times.
You could also look into the IROX polymer coated bearing shells for the rod side which sees the thrust (they measure like a .001" shell). They're expensive but just throw some cheapies in the caps and call it good
It's the bolts that just don't repeat. Specially the stock ones. oil on the threads and extreme pressure lube under the head and they continue to measure different. Not sure which bolts you have but the now discontinued Katech bolts that I put in my LS3 rods impressed the hell out of the machine shop. They said the factory bolts distorted the big ends between .0008" and .001" but the K bolts only .0003"......so just a couple of licks on the rod hone machine to put a nice cross hatch (which grabs the back of the bearing shells) and they continued to repeat and measure round several times.
You could also look into the IROX polymer coated bearing shells for the rod side which sees the thrust (they measure like a .001" shell). They're expensive but just throw some cheapies in the caps and call it good
Was using new scat rods and the arp hardware that came with them.
Was using new scat rods and the arp hardware that came with them.
8740 or 2000 bolts ??
sounds like **** poor QC......they do that **** too quickly to make them cheap and the honing stones being at various states of wear just blasts a bunch of heat into the big ends and then they measure them and box. A good machine shop always lets them cool and un-torques/re-torques them to check for repeatability.....otherwise it doesn't matter whether it gauges once since it'll just change then when you're assembling it.
8740 hardware, Scat “I beam” rod. Supposedly they were don’t “right” this time. I’d trade the whole mess for a gen4 SBE 6.0 in good shape.
So far so good, been driving it to work. Trying to break it in at varying rpm/load. Leaned the tune out and I just leave it in first… mash the gas and coast the for 15 miles each way. Using straight 5-30 cheapo oil for break in. 40 psi warm at 900rpm idle. Compression is in the 170’s across the board so I’m guessing the rings are mostly broken in. Assuming I get a track visit without making metal I’ll switch to synthetic next oil change. (or should a wait longer?) I never ran “good” oil. Usually buy the 5 gallon bucket of Rotella 15-40.
On a side note the new speed sensor on the brake rotor works great. Haven’t played with the boost by speed yet, but it’s coming.
06-26-2015, 12:56 PM
