79 RX7 LS 5.3 Turbo. (8.93 @ 153mph)
04-23-2014, 07:59 AM
#161
Very cool build, this has me seriously considering cutting and tubbing my all original bodied '75 Monza (factory 350/5.7 litre car too, uber rare) along with the turbo 5.3 setup going in next Winter. Although I was originally planning on just a mild T72 turbo in a rear mount config.....
Unless you plan on a 30+” tire and sub 1.3x 60’s I wouldn’t bother. The 9” really eats some power and is a heavy bastard! I picked this car up as a cheap roller with the rear setup already done. A 275/60-15 fit on my 86 RX-7 with no tub at all and I could pull off similar 60’ times with a ford 8.8 rear. I’d guess a 275 tire would fit on a monza as well without too much trouble? Should be light enough to get you into the 8’s without a tub or a 9” IMO.
Few track shots from this year. Boring launch compared to last years!
Last edited by Forcefed86; 04-23-2014 at 11:38 AM.
04-23-2014, 08:12 AM
#162
Thanks.
Unless you plan on a 30+” tire and sub 1.3x 60’s I wouldn’t bother. The 9” really east some power and is a heavy bastard! I picked this car up as a cheap roller with the rear setup already done. A 275/60-15 fit on my 86 RX-7 with no tub at all and I could pull off similar 60’ times with a ford 8.8 rear. I’d guess a 275 tire would fit on a monza as well without too much trouble? Should be light enough to get you into the 8’s without a tub or a 9” IMO.
Few track shots from this year. Boring launch compared to last years!
Unless you plan on a 30+” tire and sub 1.3x 60’s I wouldn’t bother. The 9” really east some power and is a heavy bastard! I picked this car up as a cheap roller with the rear setup already done. A 275/60-15 fit on my 86 RX-7 with no tub at all and I could pull off similar 60’ times with a ford 8.8 rear. I’d guess a 275 tire would fit on a monza as well without too much trouble? Should be light enough to get you into the 8’s without a tub or a 9” IMO.
Few track shots from this year. Boring launch compared to last years!
As far as the rear end, this Monza does have the larger if the two rear ends offered (being a factory 350 is prob the reason), just its still a 7.5" rear end (similar to a 3rd/4th Gen F-Body or S10/G-Body rear end). I do have stronger aftermarket Yukon axles in it (the only reason I bothered to do that was to gain 5x4.75" lug pattern over the factory 4x4" pattern), but its still a weak rear end compare to just about every other option out there.
Here is the fun part....
Because of the torque arm suspension (also like a 3rd/4th Gen F-Body), I am somewhat limited in my rear end choices. I was thinking that a small web 9" is going to be my best option due to the fact that the housing is all steel and I can weld the torque arm to the center section area unlike most non-3rd member rear ends since their center section are cast iron and bulkier too making the torque arm mounting difficult.
Last edited by Ford_Assassin; 04-23-2014 at 08:27 AM.
05-03-2014, 12:39 AM
#163
Tried crank only batch fire (INJ and IGN) without any great results. Does seem to spool more quickly. Able to get a 1.60 60' off a 4lb foot brake launch. 9.80 @144 at 20lbs (creeps to 22 up top).
Back pressure readings were pretty nutty, 62psi! Thats a 2.8:1 ratio. I'm thinking the cam timing must be off and contributing to this. Or I've got something wedged in my turbo...
Back pressure readings were pretty nutty, 62psi! Thats a 2.8:1 ratio. I'm thinking the cam timing must be off and contributing to this. Or I've got something wedged in my turbo...
05-16-2014, 01:40 PM
#165
Been in cam timing hell.
My Cloyes timing set is WAY off. 6.5* retarded from the cam card dot to dot. I was at 2* advance on the crank gear this year. Around 4.5* retarded. This may have contributed to the high back pressure. Not sure if it's retarded enough to be the cause my lack of both low and top end power.
After talking with Stock48 I thought I'd try a the triple-12 cam. Popped that in with a new OEM gear set/chain and I'm still 3* retarded from the cam card. Putting the intake lobe CL at 111. Seems less than optimal to run it this way.
Threw the old cloyes set back on and played with it a bit. At 8*A on the crank I'm still .5 retarded to the cam card.
So I figure I have 2 choices.
1.) Run the cloyes set at 8* adv
Problem I foresee is the difference between the cam and crank phasing. This will cause issues with the AEM sequential fueling. So I'd have to disable the cam and batch fire everything off the crank if I went with this option. (may be a good thing)
2.) Run the OEM timing set dot to dot 3* retarded. Keep sequential fueling with my AEM. And hope that by adjusting the cloyes crank gear originally this was causing some sort of odd phasing issues with the AEM and was the source of my poor performance.
I'm torn. Part of me wants to get it as close to the cam card as possible. The other parts ways throw it in straight up on OEM gears like everyone else. They seem to have no problems doing this.
My Cloyes timing set is WAY off. 6.5* retarded from the cam card dot to dot. I was at 2* advance on the crank gear this year. Around 4.5* retarded. This may have contributed to the high back pressure. Not sure if it's retarded enough to be the cause my lack of both low and top end power.
After talking with Stock48 I thought I'd try a the triple-12 cam. Popped that in with a new OEM gear set/chain and I'm still 3* retarded from the cam card. Putting the intake lobe CL at 111. Seems less than optimal to run it this way.
Threw the old cloyes set back on and played with it a bit. At 8*A on the crank I'm still .5 retarded to the cam card.
So I figure I have 2 choices.
1.) Run the cloyes set at 8* adv
Problem I foresee is the difference between the cam and crank phasing. This will cause issues with the AEM sequential fueling. So I'd have to disable the cam and batch fire everything off the crank if I went with this option. (may be a good thing)
2.) Run the OEM timing set dot to dot 3* retarded. Keep sequential fueling with my AEM. And hope that by adjusting the cloyes crank gear originally this was causing some sort of odd phasing issues with the AEM and was the source of my poor performance.
I'm torn. Part of me wants to get it as close to the cam card as possible. The other parts ways throw it in straight up on OEM gears like everyone else. They seem to have no problems doing this.
05-16-2014, 07:50 PM
#166
I like choice #3
3.) Figure out what is really going on before you re-assemble the car.
Things aren't adding up. If I understand correctly, you have 2 completely different timing chain assemblies that are even different brands bought at different times, and neither can produce the correct timing on two different cams. My money is on something else is at play.
3.) Figure out what is really going on before you re-assemble the car.
Things aren't adding up. If I understand correctly, you have 2 completely different timing chain assemblies that are even different brands bought at different times, and neither can produce the correct timing on two different cams. My money is on something else is at play.
05-16-2014, 08:15 PM
#167
I like choice #3
3.) Figure out what is really going on before you re-assemble the car.
Things aren't adding up. If I understand correctly, you have 2 completely different timing chain assemblies that are even different brands bought at different times, and neither can produce the correct timing on two different cams. My money is on something else is at play.
3.) Figure out what is really going on before you re-assemble the car.
Things aren't adding up. If I understand correctly, you have 2 completely different timing chain assemblies that are even different brands bought at different times, and neither can produce the correct timing on two different cams. My money is on something else is at play.
Neither degree in properly. 100% certain I'm finding TDC correctly with the piston stop and degree wheel. Dial indicator directly above pushrod, measuring at .050. Not sure what else to try. I've done it many times and the results are within a degree or closer every time. Using a huge 16" moroso degree wheel.
05-17-2014, 10:12 AM
#169
I'm with you. Usually in my case it's owner/operator error... and still may be!
First error I found... all my initial checks were made with the original cloyes cam gear and chain. I held up the cloyes cam gear and the OEM cam gear and thought they looked the same. I had been swapping out the lower gear only and not using the old cloyes timing chain to get my numbers. Crank gear not fully pressed on, no damper, cam bolts not snugged etc. Just to get an idea before I went pressing and pulling gears.
So I pressed on the new OEM crank gear installed the new OEM timing gear and new Ls2 chain, damper and all. Snugged everything up. Coming in at 8.5*ATDC! Verified this twice because it's pretty unbelievable. Well thats no good!
Pulled the crank gear (broke my 3 jaw puller doing so, had to rent another... it never ends) Installed the Cloyes set at 8*A. Came out 1* BTDC this time around. Pulled it again installed it at 6*A. Came out with 1.5* ATDC on IVO @.050 and 33.5* ABDC on the IVC. At this point I found TDC 2 more times and re-checked it. Got the exact same numbers each time.
So maybe my keyway is off... I have no other explanation. Think I'll try it this way. Unless anyone else has a suggestion?
05-17-2014, 09:24 PM
#171
Had posted the cam card above. Looks like my photobucket bandwidth is exceeded though.
Well it sure sounds different. Went from 160 cranking compression to 195! Not sure if thats good or bad yet. Everything Synced with the AEM and seems to run fine. Starts and free revs much faster. Did a quick neighborhood leak check. Had to add 20% fuel under load and it seems rich now at cruise. Always a good sign! Instant tire spin is back! Woot! High hopes for the road test tomorrow.
Well it sure sounds different. Went from 160 cranking compression to 195! Not sure if thats good or bad yet. Everything Synced with the AEM and seems to run fine. Starts and free revs much faster. Did a quick neighborhood leak check. Had to add 20% fuel under load and it seems rich now at cruise. Always a good sign! Instant tire spin is back! Woot! High hopes for the road test tomorrow.
05-18-2014, 02:01 PM
#173
Well it feels pretty darn strong. With the boost controller turned all the way down it makes 17lbs now. (Made 12 before) With 12* total timing and 10.5 AFR, Rolling into it at 70 in high gear and it blows the tires off. Kinda useless on the street... fun though! 2.4:1 back pressure if my peak and hold gauge isn't reading some sort of pressure spike...
Next track TNT is 5/30...
Ha, I'm a TB guy too... Ran a similar cam in it as well!
My LC2 powered Rx-7...
Next track TNT is 5/30...
My LC2 powered Rx-7...
05-19-2014, 08:57 PM
#177
I'd put a weaker spring in the gate but I'd be afraid with all this back pressure I wouldn't be able to make 20+ at the track.
I ordered a t4 1.25AR 87mm wheel billet S476. Figure I wont' have such high back pressure with that and hopefully i can turn it down a bit on the street.
