LS1 vs LS2
It looks like an LS1/T56 (2001-2002 Fbody) can be had for around $1500 less than an LS2/T56 (2005-2006 GTO).
Assuming budget was a concern, would you go for the LS1 setup and throw an extra $1500 into mods or just go for the LS2? What if you had an extra $2500 to throw into the LS1 vs an extra $1000 towards the LS2?
I have already figured in the extras like harness, tune, headers, motor mounts, etc. since either setup will require them. I'm just looking at best bang for the buck between the LS1 and LS2, and also the potential for future growth.
An LQ4/LQ9 is always an option, but I don't think I could live with the look of the truck accessories or intake, and adding in the cost of a T56 or TKO would probably end up more costly than an LS/T56 dropout.
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Forgot to add that this is not a daily driver, but not a dedicated track car either. It will see most of it's time as a cruiser, with a few Auto X's each year. Everything else on the car has already been updated. Hotchkis suspension, Wilwood brakes, 12 bolt, etc. I'd like to be in the 400-450 rwhp range. A lot of my buddies have modern German cars (Audi S5, BMW M3, Porsche 911, etc), and don't view a 45 year old Chevy as much competition.
The LS2 already has the better heads and LS6 type cam that most everyone upgrades to at a minimum. Plus the LS2 has full floating pistons, a higher compression ratio, a higher RPM limit, a larger bore, much hotter ignition coils, better timing chain. One of the big improvements was a better block with improved oil control, better oil pan baffling and the LS6 style PCV system.
If you want to upgrade the bigger bore means you can upgrade the LS2 to L92 heads. Can't do that with the LS1.
LS2 does have the drive by wire throttle, so you will need a gas pedal with it.
The LS2 is just a vastly improved engine.
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com..._look_feature/
The other thing to think about is they redesigned the T56 between those two model years. The early, LS1 style T56's tend to have shift fork issues requiring an expensive rebuild. in fact, if the 2001 tranny hasn't been rebuilt you might want to put aside that $1500 cost difference for the highly likely rebuild.
For the cost of a rebuild, I'd rather go with a low mile LQ and a brand new TKO or even a new T56.
If I get something with DBW, I'll be sure to get the pedals.
Whatever I get, I know I'll end up doing a cam, heads and intake at some point down the road.
If you were going to stay near stock then you would be better off with the better design and components of the LS2. But since you're going to be replacing the entire top end anyway you're only difference will be in the bottom end. While the bottom end of the LS2 is better, in the end the cheaper LS1 with the better top end will come out on top.
Plan it out a bit and just keep looking for deals.
Google or search on here for the t56 shift fork issues. They had problems popping out of 3rd gear and trouble going into 4th. You might try calling one of the many trans sponsors on here and get their advice. You don't hear about the problem as much any more because the 2001 and earlier cars are getting less in numbers.
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If I go the LS1/T56 route, I'll make sure to look for an '02 F-body or an '04 GTO.
I have a couple months to search, so I can look for a good deal. I just need to be up and running for next spring.
I can find a reasonably priced low mile LQ4/9 locally and stick with my 4spd for another season if all else fails. It would just be a little easier to do it all at once. But if I went LQ I could probably do the cam/heads/intake all before next season...
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I had considered making a 5.3 truck motor work with my T5 or a Tremec, but frankly, after adding up all the costs of making it work, it was nearly the same price for an LS1 / T56 as a complete drop out and the drop out was alot less hassle than gathering all the parts to piece it together. Don't just add up the large stuff as a swag, add up every single part required to make the swap work, and you will be surprised how much it truly costs to make it all work, especially if you go manual trans.
Also I have no plans for building a race car and, 400-420 hp will be plenty for me. That being said I was even happy with a 1998 swap which was cheaper than the newer swaps. If you want something that just fun to drive around, whatever is cheapest will work fine at your power level, so long as it's not beaten and broken.
Btw, the Saginaw is about the weakest trans around, take it easy on it. When I did my swap, I went with a Richmond 6 speed. It's pretty much a direct swap for the 4 speed.

I had considered making a 5.3 truck motor work with my T5 or a Tremec, but frankly, after adding up all the costs of making it work, it was nearly the same price for an LS1 / T56 as a complete drop out and the drop out was alot less hassle than gathering all the parts to piece it together. Don't just add up the large stuff as a swag, add up every single part required to make the swap work, and you will be surprised how much it truly costs to make it all work, especially if you go manual trans.
Btw, the Saginaw is about the weakest trans around, take it easy on it. When I did my swap, I went with a Richmond 6 speed. It's pretty much a direct swap for the 4 speed.
But I know I'll end up upgrading whatever motor I go with. I just like modding, and searching for the deals. My car will see some Auto X's as well as some other hard driving. I probably won't track it, but it may make a couple passes at the drag strip just for fun, and the extra HP would be welcome.
What I found to be an effective way in coming up with a total is add up your big parts (engine, trans, etc) and multiply by 2.....that's what I did and I found that after accumulating most of the parts I'm getting real close to that number....the little stuff adds up real quick...







