I'm sure someone has come up with a good header to use with a 1st gen camaro that will fit while doing an LS swap. I'm planning on using car shop inc. ls1 conversion motor mount adapter plates with no set back. Their link is: http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc...id/74328/LS1GM
I have not purchased them yet. Hoping to hear feedback from someone who has used them to let me know the problems I will run into. I will be using an automatic trans. and steering box in stock location. I think I will have to notch the oil pan for clearance on the drag link and possibly the stock crossmember. I have read if I use the setback conv. mounts there becomes a firewall clearance issue and trans tunnel issue. I've already painted the bottom side and firewall of my car so I'm trying to avoid any modifying in these 2 areas. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I know you usually get what you pay for, but, good priced ones would be nice. Not saying I'm not willing to pay more than an ELcheepo set that's gonna warp and leak. Maybe a mid grade or higher set. Thanks to all!

 

AnyBody???? All these views and knowledge,,,, and NO replies>>.. Cmon guys. HeLp!!??

 

I'm at the point of headers in my swap and for the money I will be using Doug's D3337. They seem to fit well and don't hang too low

 

The plates you linked to are not "stock location" plates- they're going to pull the engine forward (probably at least an inch) and you're going to have issues with the oilpan hitting the center link. The description below the picture even says that there's a different plate if you want the transmission to be in the original location.

I'm using Hooker plates that maintain the stock bellhousing location, and the holes for the 3-bolt mount are further forward than the plates you linked to, and look much more like the 2370 plates on Car Shop's site.

What oil pan are you planning to use?

 

You're right there is a ton of knowledge and experience on here, but from what I've read there's no one good answer for this. Might be why you're not getting many responses. Try doing a search and looking through the stickies at the top. There are several 1st gen build threads. I am using 1" set back plates (not carshop) on my 67 and I haven't encountered any firewall or tunnel contact issues so far (my conversion is not complete). The engine is close to the firewall, but I will be able to use the stock F-body oil pan without modification and stock F-body exhaust manifolds.

 

I havent bought a set for first gen camaro yet,so really not helping much but I finally bit the bullit an bought a set of the stainless works/cbr full length headers for my 66 chevyII with ls and man am I impressed.These are the nicest headers Ive ever had.Ive changed my mind and think nice stainless works headers are worth the extra money.A good coated header is $400-$600,If you look a little you can find the s.w. for a little over $800.Coated headers are nice but I havent seen any coating yet that lasted forever.Stainless will dull a little but will never rust.At least look at the stainless works headers, although I cant tell you any thing about the fit on first gens. I bet its good.They are a quality product.

 

With those plates oil pans will have to be notched out. I don't think any aftermarket pans will fit but I could be wrong as I only have an goody and V pan to try out. Headers it's a gamble as some guys have no issues and some do. It's like this, how much money you have to spend? If a budget your better take your time and read up.

 

I went with street and performance motor plates,autokraft oil pan and stainless steel long tube header..everything fit, but header is very close touching power steering pump in one spot..I have had zero problems with it

 

Thanks to all the ideas, and info. guys. I guess I won't be using the plates I sent in the link. I didn't realize they set the motor ahead an inch. I'm planning to use stock oil pan from 2002 Camaro if I can. At least I have a few ideas to go with now and a direction instead a shot in the dark. The plates I found were obviously not a good choice and would have been a problem from the get go.

 

I ran Muscle Rod's motor mounts with Hedman headers. They come as a package deal.

I ordered the kit mounts (4L80E) and headers from Muscle Rod. It is suppose to come ready to bolt in but did require some modification. I had to elongate the holes in the motor mounts to move the engine back 1/8"- 1/4" for the Holley Oil pan to clear the steering linkage at full lock. I ordered the 1 7/8" headers (they make a 1 3/4" too). I have no clearance issue any where with the headers. The passenger side clears the idler arm with 1/4" - 1/2" clearance. The drivers side clears the factory power steering box and hoses with no issues. The headers tuck up reasonably close to the floor, but not too close to cause heat issues.

It would have been nice if the kit moved the engine back another 1/2" to 1" closer to the fire wall. As it is I could easily get an open end/box end wrench on the bell housing bolts from the top if required (maybe not a ratchet though).

Although (if memory services me well) I think moving the engine back any more would have required different bolts on the idler arm. The idle arm has the bolt and nuts pointing inward from the frame rails towards the engine. These bolts would have had to, as a minimum, been run the other way to move the engine back and have header clearance if the motor was back any further, or grind the extra bolt off that stick out past the nut.

The transmission mount I'm not really happy with though. It is tucked up TIGHT against the floor (beat it with a rubber hammer to get into position!). I have not had the car running long enough to find out if it is going to cause squeaks and rattles. The car still has open headers so I would hear the noise yet.

IF you order this kit I'd be prepared to trail fit everything and then remove it to elongate the holes in the motor mounts and tranny mount to move the engine back enough to clear the steering drag link... or custom cut and weld an oil pan.

 

Oh, customer service from Muscle Rod sucked.

I contact them about the issues stated above but I never got a reply from them about the motor mounts or tranny mount enquiry.

 

I've read other complaints about Muscle rods C. S. as well. I've never bought anything from them personally. It would be nice to buy something made specifically for an application that these companies make, and not have to modify their stuff to make it work. If you are going to make a part, make it so it fits and works. It would sure make our life (the ones that are doing the build) much nicer. I will consider the Headman Headers though, they seem like a good fit with other mounts as well.

 

I used Carshop 1" set-back plates to keep the tranny in the stock location, a Holley oil pan, Dynatech 1 7/8" headers in my 68 with manual steering, no cutting/rubbing, or mods. to the pan.

Tranny dipstick took a good hit but still works for now until I get a LoCar one.

 

ARH(american racing headers). They look and fit great in my 71 nova, it's the same platform. Several different sizes and come with merge collectors.

 

I have the BRP setup and refused to go with coated headers since my last set only lasted about 15k miles before they rusted through from the inside. My first test was Stainless works and they did not fit on either side with the passenger side hitting the idler arm. My next choice ended up being Kooks TBSS headers. They just came out with their first gen LS headers but they had no info no them. I based my selection on pictures of the SW headers and locations and pics of the TBSS headers. They fit pretty good except the collector points outward slightly. Regardless Kooks quaility is way better than the other brand and they were willing to work with me after calling and talking to them but I didn't need to go any further. Keep in mind this was a few years back before there was alot of info and competition. Selection was very limited.

 

Normally I'd say everyone needs to play nice and just leave this alone but every thread that pops up, you throw us under the bus so I feel I must say something. I know there is almost zero chance that you will see my point since I've tried to explain this to you before. But, for the benefit of the other forum members, I'll give it one more go.

You are 100% correct, our headers did not fit your custom application. We build a set of swap headers that, if you use the parts we recommend, will fit most people's cars.

We aren't changing plug wires or shifter ***** here. We are changing the motor and unfortunately you cannot pull out a small block and drop in an LS without modifying something. As someone who did this swap, you know that it involves motors with different dimensions and on top of that, there are several different mounts, motor risers, transmissions, crossmemembers, etc.

The combination of parts you put together for your swap happened to locate the motor in a place that wouldn't allow you to use our headers.

I just don't understand why that is our fault.

As much as i wish we could build a header that would work in every instance, every time, there just isn't enough clearance in these cars to do it. Our Chevelle headers have nearly zero issues ever but that's because there is more room to allow for subtle differences like different mounts.

-Jason
Stainless Works
800.878.3635

 

Jason I am not throwing you under the bus. Somebody mentioned a BRP setup. I did not say anything about the quaility or trying to work with SW to help you out with the issues. There are others that have different mounts and still have to dent the SW headers even with the passenger side fitting. I would not even settle for that. Either way if you guys were smart enough you could easily make a header that would fit with any mount forward 1 inch or back two along with an up/down variance. I not only tried to explain to you guys but gave you all the information to do it your response was it would cost me $3k for a custom set of headers. If it was done right it would probably fit a host of Chevy cars but what do I know? This is not a tit for tat it is about what fits and what does not with a combination like you said. You guys even mentioned that you were looking at redoing your headers I offered to help you guys. In fact your old Wayne Due headers probably would have worked fine but it appeared pointless as the vendor was still not listening to the customer even after he went somewhere else.

 

Unfortunately we cannot completely redesign a header every time they don't fit one car (but fit most other cars). Known fitment issues get addressed quickly and result in redesigns but these headers fit when you follow our recommendations.

For what its worth, an updated version of the steering box header has been in production for about a year with very few fitment issues even when using non-recommended swap parts. You mention dimpling headers but no one who has contacted us with issues in the last year has had to do anything like that. So we are very excited about the changes we made to this header as it has opened up a lot of options for the 1st gen swappers!

http://www.stainlessworks.net/1967-6...x-headers.html

The aftermarket subframe (originally designed for the Wayne Due) and Steering Rack headers have not been adjusted as they fit well in most cases.

-Jason

 

i got a set of dynatech they have 800 miles on them 1 7/8 tubes ceramic coated the fit great room all around. with my 6.0 4l80e combo ill sell them $425 shipped going turbo

 

I have one of the first sets of the redesigned headers and both sides clear without any problems. It is tight, but with all the combination of parts, mounts, adapter plates, frame stands, upper control arms, gearboxes, etc. it can be challenging.

I used stock motor mounts, S&P adapter plates, Mast oilpan and S&P transmission crossmember. This combo gives me about 2" between the firewall and cylinder head, which leaves plenty of room for the transmission dipstick. Whatever you decide to go with this is one area I would splurge and go with a stainless steel header. As previously mentioned the ceramic coated headers just do not last.