Wire tucked engine bays
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 482
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From: Whitehall,PA
Wire tucked engine bays I am doing (redoing) a 5.3/4l60e swap in a New edge Mustang(02) due to a wreck with the previous car (01). This time around I want to have a very clean engine bay void of wire harnesses and such. I am thinking about running my coil an injector wires under the stock truck intake but dont know how feasable that would be. If you can post up pics of your tucked engine bays and give a small idea of how you accomplished your tuck it would be appreciated. Thanks,Mark.
It is facing the wrong way, but here is mine.
When I built the harness I used heat shrink for all the wires on the top side of the engine to make the harness as thin as possible (it is loomed over the bellhousing and to the ecm). The injector portion of the harness runs behind the fuel rail to mostly hide it. I fabbed up the brackets to relocate the coils on the end of the heads to keep the plug wires off the valve covers (and smoothed the covers). The relocated coils also have the electrical connectors facing down so the bulk of that wiring is hidden by the coils. I relocated all chassis wiring out of the engine bay and mounted the ECM down by the transmission (on the front side so it is hidden) to keep the bulk of the harness on the engine with minimal wires to pass through to the chassis. I relocated that pass through point down low and out of sight as well.
Anything that didn't need to be in the engine bay was moved to other hidden areas.
When I built the harness I used heat shrink for all the wires on the top side of the engine to make the harness as thin as possible (it is loomed over the bellhousing and to the ecm). The injector portion of the harness runs behind the fuel rail to mostly hide it. I fabbed up the brackets to relocate the coils on the end of the heads to keep the plug wires off the valve covers (and smoothed the covers). The relocated coils also have the electrical connectors facing down so the bulk of that wiring is hidden by the coils. I relocated all chassis wiring out of the engine bay and mounted the ECM down by the transmission (on the front side so it is hidden) to keep the bulk of the harness on the engine with minimal wires to pass through to the chassis. I relocated that pass through point down low and out of sight as well.
Anything that didn't need to be in the engine bay was moved to other hidden areas.
^ That looks great. Im about to remove everything under mine but I have a drag car. Can I just run everything straight of the battery or do I need a power distribution block? All I have running is my standalone fuse box, alt, and starter I believe. or do they make a inline fuse to handle that type of thing
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Whitehall,PA
Fiero, that looks awsome. I was working on mine today trying to get that same look. Did you make custom length plug wires? I want that clean uncluttered look. Tired2V, I'm gonna check your build again.
Yes, the plug wires were cut to fit 8mm from Summit Racing. I purchase the coil ends from MSD and then just cut them to the needed length.
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LS4, but I think they are the same as the LS2 ones as well. Here is what they looked like in their normal configuration:
The spacers and the carriage bolts came from Lowes and I just welded them to a piece of 1/8" steel like this:
You have to remove the coils to install/remove the plate, but I was willing to accept that for the cleaner look. On the Driver side head, I used some 1" spacers to shim the plate from the head and better align it with the other side. This gap provided a good place for the fuel line and brake booster line to quickly duck out of sight.
The build thread is lots of pictures and information is here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...peed-swap.html
The spacers and the carriage bolts came from Lowes and I just welded them to a piece of 1/8" steel like this:
You have to remove the coils to install/remove the plate, but I was willing to accept that for the cleaner look. On the Driver side head, I used some 1" spacers to shim the plate from the head and better align it with the other side. This gap provided a good place for the fuel line and brake booster line to quickly duck out of sight.
The build thread is lots of pictures and information is here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...peed-swap.html
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