Hey folks, this day is a long time coming. Everyone has had to put up with me, my passion for car-parts has interrupted my co-workers on a daily basis, my long hours under the garage light for a year and a half straight. The 30,000.00+ I spent on the restoration and conversion of my 1967 "badassbird". Well, its time for a start up party! That's right with a band a pool a taco lady, and everyone (well at least me) excited for "the start-up".

The oil system, Check
The Water system, Radiator and fans, Check
the Power Steering system, check
The electrical system, crossing my fingers
The air intake, check
the exhaust, loud with straight headers
The T56 and new drive line, check
Deodorant, check

Now for the fuel system; I went ahead and installed a dual line with the reg on the rail per S&P's recommendation. For now I have Nylon hoses with stainless fittings. I Traded the bleeder for a fuel gauge.
Do I need to know or do something to the critical fuel system?
do I need to bleed the lines? Get the air out? I've been told that if the injectors see air they will snap shut. If this is true, how critical is this?

The car is now virtually brand new. I've installed the ls1 and T56 xmission. Autometer gauges audiovox security system, led lights throughout with digitails for the rear lights, tubular a arms with a lowered suspension. Painted it Torch red, Keyless entry, power windows, Four fuse boxes, Custom billet shelves for all the new electronics utilizing the space behind the headlights. Battery in the trunk system, Magnum shooters instead of wiring for the door electronics, Hurst shifter, remote power steering res., a Kwik bracket system for A/C and alternator, a Vintage air Heating and cooling system, disk brakes, a clutch pedal with hydraulics, had the gearbox re-done with 3.5 instead of the 4.5 lock to lock gearing, re-wired the headlight system, installed a hidden PCM (behind the right fender well) Tinted all the new glass and yes even the windshield. Fuel pump installation in the existing tank. Not to mention a full blown, body-off, from the ground up restoration. Whew!

I still need a 3:73 rear-end with posi. a local shop quoted me 1300. and a header-back exhaust system and some sort of a rear suspension to handle the new horsepower. I am considering a ride-tech suspension with an added sway bar and subframe connectors. Ride tech makes a roll-cage for the bird, does anyone have experience with this?

I have virtually done all this work myself (and the help of you all) and all for the first time and would appreciate any help for startup. I know I have to get the PCM down to a local shop for tune-up but can I start it without doing that? I mean will it fire-up?

 

You say the PCM hasn't been tuned, but have you at least deleted the VATS? If not, your excitment will be short lived. It will start and die. Also, I usually start them before putting all the hoses and coolant in it incase you need to pull it back out. Starting it for a few seconds won't hurt anything. As for yout fuel system, just turn the key on and off a few times to prime it and make sure there are no leaks. No need to bleed any air on a return style rail. Good luck with the start up, its always a great feeling when they come to life for the first time!

 

NO antifreeze in the cooling system, on first start!
Some "spin time" to get some oil psi... Plugs out, injs inop.
Injs cleaned, or have they been sitting for an extended period?
Open headers with the O2 sensors close to the collectors will/may cause air fuel issues.
Headers coated? If so, wipe them w/ alcohol to get the finger prints, grease off.
Put a large fan in ft of the rad. This will help w/ air flow over the headers, so the coating doesn't cook off. [Also helps w/ controlling engine temp.]

 

It won't fire without a VATS delete.

I've never had to bleed a fuel rail, just bump the key a few times and crank away.

 

The vats will kill the starting. You can buy a tool to get oil pressure up for the initial start as well

 

I am really excited to get this girl running. Couple of things you guys mentioned. I already have antifreeze in so should I dump it, i mean how critical is this? The injectors have been sitting for about 1 1/2 years. The Vats I believe is gone when they flashed the PCM? Under what circumstances will the ceramic coating cook off?

 

Having antifreeze in it won't hurt anything - as stated above, that's just in case you discover something that requires removing the engine again, it's just one less thing to have to do. If you already have it in, I wouldn't take it out unless you need to.

 

I fill them with just water as it is easier to fix leaks and not spray antifreeze all over a newly assembled car. Once there are no leaks and all is good, drain. Water and fill with good stuff.