Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Ls1 Intake on craiglist... I've had luck with CL.. Never got screwed

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/4028806743.html
http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/3994278942.html
Usually if you pay for shipping they will ship for you.

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

So if I use f body acc I don't need the pump spacers? Is the crank pulley the same?

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

You won't need spacers but you will need the f-body pulley and accessory components. Like I said it gets expensive swapping over. That's why buying a take-out ls1 can be cheaper overall than buying the truck motor and converting it over.
My advice would be to try the truck intake by lowering the engine a tad or buying a take off ls1 intake with fuel rails and injectors (can be had cheap) or get a professional products intake with fuel rail and tb, get a waterpump (they can be had for $89 shipped) and spacer.
Try the truck set up first.. do a mock up and see if it clears the hood.. set the engine as close to the firewall as you can get. ( the closer to it the more room because the hood angles down toward the nose)
Check ebay for the water pump and spacers if you decide to go ls1 intake route... That is where I found my waterpump and spacers and I think I have less than 150 in all of it. I've also found plenty of ls1 intakes on there. Some complete with tb and rails and injectors...

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to mention, you could try a Victor Jr. Efi intake with an elbow. You would still have to buy rails though... I have looked on ebay and have fount complete ls1 take off intakes with rails and injectors from 300 to 400 bucks

Edit 429.95 vic jr. intake with rails

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

I just read wildcamaro's thread and he was able to use his truck acc and still coose the hood, so Im going to hold off on buying any acc and try mine first.

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

I think I kinda mentioned that lol.. I still think that you could fit the truck intake as well... Just have to move the engine around to find out where it needs to set to close the hood.

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the good info!

omc8

iTrader: (7)

Get the engine as low and back to the firewall as can get it. And run the truck intake , they are not pretty but they out flow an LS1 intake and are right with a LS6 performance wise. Less hassle changing injectors or connector plugs, plus the expense.

Zach@DriveJunky

We manufacture an accessory drive that utilizes the factory 'truck" 5.3 damper you have... our ac will clear the frame with no notching.. I have one in my 68.. just a thought.. not sure the truck accessory will clear the hood etc.. and its not so easy on the eyes... on our website it talks about the ATI, but i could pull that to save you more than a bit and you can use the damper you have...
www.drivejunky.com
good luck with the build...

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

Those serpentine set ups are nice but pricey! I don't see myself dropping that much cash on a set up even though their nice

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Looks like you guy push the A/C compressor out enough to run off the serpentine side of the the drive. I have motor pushed back to far for even that.. That's why I'll look into electric compressors. Those are good looking kits though. Do you plan on making a kit that put both the alternator and P.S. pump on the same side? In the future, I'd like to put a prettier set up on mine, but it would have to be similar to the truck drive.
Good luck MS6.

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

Cam and springs showed up this weekend, got the cam installed and dropped the springs off at the machine shop, should have the heads back tommorow. also cleaned up the crank pulley and painted, heres a little mock up, cant wait to see it with the heads and valve covers back on! also got the rear end stripped down and hopefully get it dropped off for sandblasting and powder coating this week.

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

got a few new gaskets installed, valley cover torqued to spec, new crank seal installed just have to get a crank pulley installer now so i can center the timing cover and torque her down. i read on here somewhere that a guy put his crank pulley in the oven for 30 min or an hour dont remember for sure but he said after that the pulley just slid right on, would that hurt the pulley at all? if not i might just do that?

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Directions for my Trick-Flo balancer said to put into oven For 30 min at like 180 or so.. That's how I installed mine.. Was still a tight fit though! Shouldn't hurt it.

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

Dropped off the rear end today and started installing crank pulley , ran into an issue, I can't keep the crank from turning! Either going to make a tool to bolt in place of the starter or see if I can get someone to hold the flywheel while I tighten the crank.

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

got the crank pulley installed, made a couple of tools and they worked like a charm. The installer I cant take credit for, I searched the site and stole the idea from another guy on here, just went to Fastenal and bought the allthread. the flywheel holder I did make myself, nothing to it really. followed chiltons instructions and set the pulley 11/16" from the end of the crank snout. now just need to get a new crank bolt and torque it down.

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

Cool build!

-Garrett

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

Can you tell by the type of connectors in my harness what transmission came with my engine? Here's some pics of the part of the harness that goes to the transmission.

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

Also I've got 2 4l60e's from mid 90 trucks, are they the same as the 4l60e's that came in the 2005's? If so , SWEET!

omc8

iTrader: (7)

Does anyone know for sure if you run a Truck intake and acessories in a GEN 1 F Body ?