jlwdvm

Pulley switched out...check out the difference in post #96. Everything else lines up well as far as drive line angles, center line, etc. I did have to dimple one header tube on each side to clear tie rod ends.

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...ar-build/page5

Trackman

Trackman

Do you think I will have clearance issues with this oil cooler adapter if I go with Hooker headers? LSX454

user 4737373

Hey Trackman, I have some good news and bad news for you regarding the use of the Hooker LS swap headers in your application...the goods news is they will clear you cooler adapter with no problems, the bad news is their bend geometry will not fit around the frame stand/swap plate engine mount set-up you are using and they will also shroud the top of your exhaust ports by at least 1/4" as will any headers designed for stock type LS heads.

You need a set of headers that are designed specifically to deal with the raised exhaust ports of your heads if you want to do your engine justice in reaching its true performance potential.

Trackman

I had plans to use the Holley mounts. I wasn't fully aware of the exhaust port differences however.Hmmm

user 4737373

If you look at your exhaust ports on your heads, you will notice that the ports are not centered on the bolt hole centerline (disregarding the center two bolt holes) but instead are raised up above it by a considerable amount.

We have a LSX 454 in the engineering lab right now and I will bolt up a header flange tomorrow and validate the fitment for you to see exactly where you would end up by using standard LS headers on your engine since I'm only guessing off of your photo at the moment.

Stovebolter

I'm guessing Dub decided not to share his findings with the group.

Dub Silverado

iTrader: (5)

My project kind of stalled out for a little while. What i found was that with the tru-turn, hooker long tubes, and holley mount setup, my steering would hit the headers. I also found that the Mast Motorsports oil pan was the best solution in my application.

I since have decided to build a twin turbo setup with front facing headers so the headers are no longer a concern for me

Stovebolter

That's great news. I'm in the same boat then. I've recently decided to go with twin turbos when I make the conversion. So headers aren't an issue for me either. Do you have a build thread? Thanks for the reply.

Stovebolter

Disregard. I've decided to stay normally aspirated. Which puts me back with the complicated mess of modifying someones LS swap system to work with the Tru Turn. While I bragged about the Tru Turn system with my OEM drivetrain, I can say without doubt I wouldn't consider the Tru Turn system again because of all this aggrevation of trying to make something work for a LS swap. And IMO no-one from Ridetech has stepped up to the plate to provide us with a list of part numbers for swap plates, headers, transmission Xmember, and oil pan that will clear their system. Now I realize they did this with the 48 hour Camaro but it is my understanding it used a mix match of different items. If I could do this over again I would buy a full front stub from DSE, Speedtech, or Scott Mock. If I wanted to reinvent the wheel I would. Just an opinion from someone that has the Tru Turn system.

Stovebolter

I do commend Todd on his work on this system and he doesnt even have any affiliation with Ridetech.

I guess I'm going to go with the 302-2 pan, some engine swap plates that will move the motor back at least 1/2" (Dirty Dingos maybe) or Holleys 1" set back plates, 1 7/8" long tube headers in stainless, and alter and modify my existing new style Holley LS transmission crossmember to make up for the new set back......since I've already altered it to pick up the front mount on my torque arm already.

I wont dent or alter a new set of headers, cut my crossmember or modify a new oil pan. Nope!

user 4737373

Hey stovebolter. I think your best solution is to use the Mast pan and modify one tube on either side of the Hooker headers if that's what you are using. Switching to swap plates will raise the front of your engine and deny you the ability to take advantage of the optimized geometry design into the Hooker engine brackets and crossmember. I've already performed the same header modification for another member here free of charge and will offer the same service to you if you are interested.

Stovebolter

Todd,

I may take you up on that offer. I will be doing the long tube stainless for sure.

So you are saying the set back plates that you were talking about somewhere place the drivetrain on a different plane than the 1rst gen kit? Higher and further back? Rats! I really like the idea of staying with the Holley pan too because they tie the block to the transmission like a factory pan. I can probably TIG the corners of one of the pans.

Let's assume I stay with your system only, I'd prefer not to modify my front crossmember but will if one pan is suggested over the other, your willing to help me out with the header mods, and I stay with the new Holley TH400 X member that I now use which is also good with T56......what part numbers for suggested swap plates, headers, and which pan?

Thanks,
David

user 4737373

Yes, using the stock frame stands and typical 1" set-back swap plates (Hooker and others), will produce a higher installed height of your engine compared to using the new Hooker 12618HKR clamshell conversion engine brackets, which will compromise the intended fitment of the Hooker headers and the 12626HKR crossmember you have. It is only the front corners of the sump of the Holley 302-2 pan that need to be notched to clear the tie rod ends, so I would easily choose to perform that modification over moving the engine back and higher to clear a specific pan. The Hooker 1-7/8" stainless long-tubes (2276-7HKR) will also not clear the steering box if you move the engine back that much further as the second and third tubes feature unique bend geometry to split around the front and back of the box. If you want the best end results following the swap, I recommend that you notch the front corners of the 302-2 pan slightly and send me your headers once you buy them and I'll perform the surgical modifications to the two tubes in conflict with the Ridetech parts for you. Once I'm done with the modification you won't be able to tell that there's anything non-production about them and you'll be glad you retained the intended geometry of the Hooker mounting components. Send me a PM when you decide what you want to do.

Todd

Stovebolter

Thanks Todd. I went back through your first post and figured it out after reading it again. PM sent.

BlackHD

Hi Todd,

I'm more than likely going this same route. Will/Can you perform the header modification for me as well?

Please let me know. thanks

user 4737373

Hey BlackHD, I can help you out as long as your not in a huge rush to get it done. I've committed to helping out stovebolter already, so I'll have to put you behind him in the pecking order...that might translate to a few weeks, so I don't know if that suits your schedule.

BlackHD

A few weeks is ok for me...Thanks for your hard work and for going to extra mile for us!

Stovebolter

I am eagerly anticipating my headers arrival. Lol.

user 4737373

I guess we'll all have to hurry up and wait.