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It would have been started sooner, but I randomly came home one day with a brand new 2013 Honda CBR600RR. :rofl All my money has gone with that until recently when I started a new job. Which means I can finally put work into this car.
Started parting the car out and it's now basically a half sanded, cut up rear fender rolling shell. I wanted to start over and do a full build.
Used to look like this.
Current pics can be had at my IG @c4lvinnn
Current toy:
My wheels went to Tom (@tomdrift666) in Florida:
My motor. Chevrolet LM7
Dropped off at the machinist:
Plans:
Block / Bottom End:
- Bore and plateu hone block. soft hone quick ring seating (5.3L to 5.7L)
- 3.903 bore
- Deck block
- Grind 3.622" OEM Crankshaft
- Balance rotating assembly
- Line hone block
- Check and set main bearing clearances, rod bearing clearances, ring gap
- Install cam bearings
- Wiseco/K1 Billet Rods
- Wiseco Pistons 12cc dome / 3.903" bore 12.4:1 CR
- Clevite Bearings
- ARP Main studs
Head / Top End:
- Performance 3 angle
- Surface cylinder head
- Porting + valve job and surface for 243/799 heads
- ARP Head bolts
- Stock head gasket
- Texas Speed Magic Stick 4 239/242 .649"/.609" Camshaft @ .050"
- Comp Cams Beehive dual valve springs, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms
- Manley Valves
First stage of machining has been done.
The valve job + porting should make the 799 heads flow to around 315cfm. Around the specs of the AFR 210 heads.
It will be fully caged, repainted, widebody/overs, new wheels, new suspension, etc. Everything. Going to do it right. So shut up if it takes a long time
I don't see the point of it. Its form over function. You give up so much contact patch. Sure its ideal for drifting because you want solid sidewall and no traction. But outside of that, its good for impressing 16 year old boys at parking lot car meets. You'll have a horrible time hooking up with V8 torque. If it is for drifting, I apologize. I guess I'm still just trying to understand why so many people around here do that.
Like my neighbors TT 300zx with about 20 degrees of negative camber and stretched tires. He was kinda embarrassed in front of his 10 buddies after he talked SO much crap and lost to my stock SRT-4.
I don't see the point of it. Its form over function. You give up so much contact patch. Sure its ideal for drifting because you want solid sidewall and no traction. But outside of that, its good for impressing 16 year old boys at parking lot car meets. You'll have a horrible time hooking up with V8 torque. If it is for drifting, I apologize. I guess I'm still just trying to understand why so many people around here do that.
Like my neighbors TT 300zx with about 20 degrees of negative camber and stretched tires. He was kinda embarrassed in front of his 10 buddies after he talked SO much crap and lost to my stock SRT-4.
It is a drift build. And the stiff sidewall is ideal and still need the traction to be able to transition and weight shift as best as I can. The 285s will be on my normal/daily wheels and the 255s will be back on the drift set. 285s are going to be a bit too sticky to transition well enough at the power level I'll be at. I have zero interest in drag racing so yeah haha. The most the car will see will be highway runs and drift events.
I'm just giving you a hard time. Welcome to LS1Tech .
Goodluck with the build. There are a ton of 240sx conversions on here if you need any info. There should be more than enough info as far as fitment and combos go for your swap. If you haven't figured out motor mounts, oil pan, etc, a quick search should give you everything you need.
I'm just giving you a hard time. Welcome to LS1Tech .
Goodluck with the build. There are a ton of 240sx conversions on here if you need any info. There should be more than enough info as far as fitment and combos go for your swap. If you haven't figured out motor mounts, oil pan, etc, a quick search should give you everything you need.
Yeah, I've been around plenty of swaps in S-chassis cars. I already have a modded GTO pan but it wasn't very well built, so I'm going to ditch that for a Sikky pan.
Mounts I'll be going with Daft, harness from either Chase bays or Wiring Specialities.
Long ways to go to need to think about the rest of the swap, so I'll get it to it when I can. Thanks
Welcome brotha. I am sure I saw your car on Zilvia cause it is def a nice car. I am currently in the middle of my S14 LM7-turbo build. Not sure if you have any personal experience with this particular swap but a few of my friends have LS-based swaps and they love the Rigid Racing mounts. Sits the motor as far down and back as reasonably possible if you havent already check them out. Also the Canton Oil pan is a nice setup for fair price. As far as wiring....steer clear of Chase Bay and def go with WS. Yury is the man and the WS harness is by far the cleanest for our swaps and the best quality off the shelf units.
GL on the build I will be keeping a close eye on this one. Looks like you already put some work into this bad boy.
PS...shameless plug but if you need an Fbody Balancer for the swap I have one for sale. We could work something out.
Welcome brotha. I am sure I saw your car on Zilvia cause it is def a nice car. I am currently in the middle of my S14 LM7-turbo build. Not sure if you have any personal experience with this particular swap but a few of my friends have LS-based swaps and they love the Rigid Racing mounts. Sits the motor as far down and back as reasonably possible if you havent already check them out. Also the Canton Oil pan is a nice setup for fair price. As far as wiring....steer clear of Chase Bay and def go with WS. Yury is the man and the WS harness is by far the cleanest for our swaps and the best quality off the shelf units.
GL on the build I will be keeping a close eye on this one. Looks like you already put some work into this bad boy.
PS...shameless plug but if you need an Fbody Balancer for the swap I have one for sale. We could work something out.
Thanks man! Yeah, I'm on Zilvia. I'll check the Rigid Racing mounts out for sure.
I have heard mixed reviews about Chase. So I will probably be going with WS.
Main studs finally arrived after 6 week backorder. Should be able to finish the short block in the next couple of weeks. Then it's PNP and 3-angle for the heads time!
I thought the sikky kit was the best and that's what I went with, fitment was good, no real problems with clearances, I did have to replace the poly engine mounts for the solid ones, the poly mount on the passenger side was separating
1&7/8, to 3.5, figured since the motor was stroked it would help, I got them bare, and had jet hot coat it, not sure how sikky coats their headers or if they send them out
Cage is done. I realize the dash bar is low but I'm barely 5'6" and have short legs lol. I tested with an old seat and looks to be ok, but will re-do it and adjust accordingly if needed. I just didn't want to cut through the whole backside of the dash, but if I have to, I will.
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LS1 240SX Build 
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