1967 Cougar build (over 500 pictures and videos)
#721
10 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
What is your procedure for tightening the wheels? I think I has a similar issue when I was zipping my wheels on with the impact. I hand torqued them in smaller steps and got rid of a weird vibration on my car.
Oh yeah, and way to ruin those beautiful Baer caliper brackets
Oh yeah, and way to ruin those beautiful Baer caliper brackets
#722
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
What is your procedure for tightening the wheels? I think I has a similar issue when I was zipping my wheels on with the impact. I hand torqued them in smaller steps and got rid of a weird vibration on my car.
Oh yeah, and way to ruin those beautiful Baer caliper brackets
Oh yeah, and way to ruin those beautiful Baer caliper brackets
I'm sick about gouging that caliper bracket.
Andrew
Last edited by Project GatTagO; 04-24-2016 at 04:21 PM.
#723
TECH Resident
Noodling on this. Sure seems odd and I'm sure annoying.
How did you set front bearing pre-load? Any chance it is set too loose?
Is the shimmy (you are defining it as: "makes the steering wheel oscillate back and forth enough to shake my wrist as I hold the steering wheel.") - is that right?
Are all of the front steering components new? How about the gearbox? Is the gear lash there set right? (IE without play)?
Doug
How did you set front bearing pre-load? Any chance it is set too loose?
Is the shimmy (you are defining it as: "makes the steering wheel oscillate back and forth enough to shake my wrist as I hold the steering wheel.") - is that right?
Are all of the front steering components new? How about the gearbox? Is the gear lash there set right? (IE without play)?
Doug
#724
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Noodling on this. Sure seems odd and I'm sure annoying.
How did you set front bearing pre-load? Any chance it is set too loose?
Is the shimmy (you are defining it as: "makes the steering wheel oscillate back and forth enough to shake my wrist as I hold the steering wheel.") - is that right?
Are all of the front steering components new? How about the gearbox? Is the gear lash there set right? (IE without play)?
Doug
How did you set front bearing pre-load? Any chance it is set too loose?
Is the shimmy (you are defining it as: "makes the steering wheel oscillate back and forth enough to shake my wrist as I hold the steering wheel.") - is that right?
Are all of the front steering components new? How about the gearbox? Is the gear lash there set right? (IE without play)?
Doug
The Baer brake upgrade came with new billet aluminum hubs and bearings. I set the bearings by tightening the nut until I feel the rotational resistance increase then back off the castle nut to the nearest slot. This has worked well for me for many years.
The front suspension is all new TCP as is the steering rack, also TCP (manual).
The trans and driveshaft are new. The rear is 45 years old, has OEM Ford gears and a Detroit Locker and it's silent. Rear axles are new and from Strange and double checked for runout.
I posted this on corner-carvers.com...
http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums...ead.php?t=4668
My post starts at #28...
Andrew
#725
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
I finally decided to get under the car and take some measurements to see what my scrub radius is.
I think I found the problem.
Looks like there is about 4.25" of positive scrub radius and the tires being so skinny they don't even cover the point on the floor where I projected the KPI. This also explains the heavy steering and the almost violent return to center of the steering wheel after a turn.
Andrew
I think I found the problem.
Looks like there is about 4.25" of positive scrub radius and the tires being so skinny they don't even cover the point on the floor where I projected the KPI. This also explains the heavy steering and the almost violent return to center of the steering wheel after a turn.
Andrew
#727
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
ET Mags makes a similar looking wheel but 6" wide with .25" of positive offset. If my math is right this would decrease the scrub radius by .75" but I don't know if that's enough. It would be a $800 experiment....
Andrew
#728
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
It's been a long month and a half. I got married on May 20th, moved to Tuscaloosa Alabama, remodeled our new home with new bamboo flooring, paint and appliances, and just this week drove the GTO and the Cougar down. Good times! Big thanks to my HS buddy Rory for coming to T-Town and helping with the remodel. Also big thanks to my buddy Shaun for volunteering to spend several days of his vacation helping me drive the cars down and hanging out. He scored a pretty decent 1995 Miata in Nashville and drove it home to Janesville, WI without any issues.
Here we are at the Waffle House just south of Indy....
Our trip from Oshkosh didn't start well as we were experiencing weird electrical issues with the Cougar. It was an intermittent issue and we managed to ultimately make it to Tuscaloosa. Today I had some time to fiddle with it and ultimately traced the problem down to a melted fuse holder in the main power feed that I installed to feed the fuel pump and other accessories under the dash.
The issue was somewhat self inflicted as I wired the stereo amps to the same power lead. The fuse in the holder was only 40 amps, but the holder melted before the fuse popped...Lesson learned. I'll get this sorted out and be back on the road soon.
Andrew
Here we are at the Waffle House just south of Indy....
Our trip from Oshkosh didn't start well as we were experiencing weird electrical issues with the Cougar. It was an intermittent issue and we managed to ultimately make it to Tuscaloosa. Today I had some time to fiddle with it and ultimately traced the problem down to a melted fuse holder in the main power feed that I installed to feed the fuel pump and other accessories under the dash.
The issue was somewhat self inflicted as I wired the stereo amps to the same power lead. The fuse in the holder was only 40 amps, but the holder melted before the fuse popped...Lesson learned. I'll get this sorted out and be back on the road soon.
Andrew
#730
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Thanks Frank! The house needed to be updated and for the last 6 weeks I have been ripping up carpet and installing solid bamboo flooring, giving the place a new paint job, installing new appliances, and completely remodeling the bathrooms. What a pain but totally worth it. It's like a completely different house.
Andrew
Andrew
#731
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
I decided to cut that fuse holder apart and see exactly how it is put together. Here is what I found...
The wire definitely got hot, but I suspect it is because the crimp is not properly done.
I cut the other side open and found the same thing.
The wire is crimped at the secondary set of crimps which is only meant to be used for the wire insulation. What junk!!!
My fault for buying cheap crap...
Andrew
The wire definitely got hot, but I suspect it is because the crimp is not properly done.
I cut the other side open and found the same thing.
The wire is crimped at the secondary set of crimps which is only meant to be used for the wire insulation. What junk!!!
My fault for buying cheap crap...
Andrew
#735
The fuse holders like that are only rated to up to 30A. You definitely shouldn't have your amps hooked to it.
What amps do you have? Generally, You should run a MINIMUM of 8ga wire to any amp that's worth a crap. 4ga would be better. And not any of the Copper Clad Aluminum junk.
Honestly, I'm not surprised that fuse holder didn't hold up.
Jay
What amps do you have? Generally, You should run a MINIMUM of 8ga wire to any amp that's worth a crap. 4ga would be better. And not any of the Copper Clad Aluminum junk.
Honestly, I'm not surprised that fuse holder didn't hold up.
Jay
#736
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
The fuse holders like that are only rated to up to 30A. You definitely shouldn't have your amps hooked to it.
What amps do you have? Generally, You should run a MINIMUM of 8ga wire to any amp that's worth a crap. 4ga would be better. And not any of the Copper Clad Aluminum junk.
Honestly, I'm not surprised that fuse holder didn't hold up.
Jay
What amps do you have? Generally, You should run a MINIMUM of 8ga wire to any amp that's worth a crap. 4ga would be better. And not any of the Copper Clad Aluminum junk.
Honestly, I'm not surprised that fuse holder didn't hold up.
Jay
I learned my lesson!
I have a couple of baby Kenwood amps. They are so small they fit behind the radio delete plate that I made. One said 15 amp draw the other was like 25...
Andrew
#738
Glad you caught it before it caused a serious problem.
Jay
#739
Andrew ,
Whi9la i99 really like following your builds, post 725 is so over my head. I'm just glad you found out what was wrong. BOL!
Whi9la i99 really like following your builds, post 725 is so over my head. I'm just glad you found out what was wrong. BOL!
#740
TECH Resident