So I have been lurking and researching for my swap. I'm swapping lq4 and 4l80e, I have a list put together but before I start ordering. I have some questions for others that have done chevelle swaps. All the threads I have read everyone uses a different pan motor mount plates.

I'm going to use new Holley 302-2 oil pan, and I have the short narrow motor mount stands. I'm thinking of using the Holley stock location adapter plates. Anyone have any issues with those plates and pan combo?

I've boxed my frame and going to cut up the factory transmission crossmember. And weld some angle iron onto the frame. So I can set the crossmember on the angle and bolt it down. If I weld the angle at the same height on the frame as the crossmember bolted from the factory. Will I have issues with drive line angle? I'm unsure about the 4l80e transmission mount height in comparison to the th350.

The chevelle will have vintage air for air conditioning. Also I'm going to either use a newer Jeep Cherokee steering box or a 670 series steering box. So should I buy a drop out lq4 or piece together a long block with all the accessories and brackets I'll need?

I haven't figured out the headers yet, I might turbo the chevelle later so I might just use exhaust manifolds.
Sorry if this seems like to much and rambling but I'm posting from my phone. Thanks for any help.

 

This is what worked for me........

The plan was to swap an LM7/4L60E into the Chevelle and do it as inexpensive as possible. I did not have an unlimited budget, but I don't mind spending good money for good parts, if someone has done the R&D already and it is proven, I am going to spend the $$$$(Holley 302-2, G-Force Crossmember, BP Automotive, Aeromotive Stealth fuel tank, Dakota Digital Guages).

I had a lot of fun and really enjoyed doing this swap, I got my 11 and 12 year old sons involved and introduced them to Muscle Cars.

I purchased a 2005 LM7/4L60E with 110,000mi out of a slightly bent Chevy Suburban, I was able to drive the truck around the warehouse and on the highway, and she ran awesome.

Oil Pan- Holley 302-2 great fit and clears tie rods and sits low
Motor Mounts- EBay aluminum adapter plates, stock motor mounts
Transmission Crossmember- G Force
Transmission Mount- Energy Suspension
Front Motor Accessories- Stock GM, Dirty Dingo small PS pulley
Headers/Exhaust- Flowmaster--great fit except for brake distribution box, I should have moved it to underneath the master cylinder
Wiring Harness/Computer Flash- BP Automotive
Cooling System- stock 1969 Chevelle radiator, Ford Aerostar elec fans, upper and lower hose from 2005 Chevy Suburban fit with minor trimming.
Fuel System- Aeromotive Stealth Fuel System(tank,pump,regulator,filter) SS braided feed line, used stock fuel line for return
Guages- Dakota Digital
Steering Box- 1996 Jeep Cherokee Box with ps hose from 1985 Monte Carlo
Cold Air Intake- Spectre
Motor Cover to hide the truck intake- Custom Aluminum, Cleares the stock hood and the alternator cleared the stock hood also.
Shifter Linkage- Shiftworks, mounts to stock column shift
Driveshaft- Shortened a few inches at Broward Powertrain, upgraded u-joints

The car started as soon as there was fuel to the rails and the maiden voyage was uneventful(except for the burnout). The steering box makes a world of difference and was the 2nd best upgrade I did. The LS was the first. Have not taken on highway trip because I am waiting for Dakota Digital gauges to get here.

I would recommend to buy a complete drop out that includes motor, trans, gas pedal, harness and anything else the seller will give you from the same vehicle. You may pay a few hundred more but it may be worth it, it was to me.

While the motor is out move the brake distribution box to under the master cylinder. Mine clears the headers but is a little to close for me. I will be going back and moving it.

Rob

 

I got my ls its supposed to be out of a 05 Denali. Was told it was lq9 pulled a plug and its a lq4. I got the motor harness pcm pedal and tac module. From the vehicle I have researched some it's a blue green harness and the pcm doesn't have the pins soldered for the dbw to dbc conversion. According to a article I found, so I'm going to stay dbw. From what I have read the pcm pedal and tac module need to be in the same year range to work. The truck pedal I have is huge and won't work. I'll need a different pedal. From what I have read I can use a a 1998-2005 corvette pedal or a 1999-2005 truck pedal. To work with my 05-06 pcm and 03 and up throttle body. Does anyone have any insight in to dbw setups. Any help would be great thanks

 

Brendan at LT1Swap prefers them same year as pcm as well. I used a truck pedal on my 76 skylark. mine had a curve to right and was long to. I heated with torch straitened it then put a s curve into it. worked out ok. is yours the medal or plastic pedal? you can cut it weld back the way you want. just dont get the sensor on it hot. you probably have to mount to car and check for full throttle while doing it a couple of times. you" probably need a smaller steering pump pulley as well. chevelles and novas have steering clearance issues at the box.

 

Yeah that lt1swap guide is what I have been reading. I have a metal pedal with a big loop I was thinking of trying to customize it. And I'm going to do the a newer jeep cherokee box or a 670 series steering box. That should help with clearance issues anand give better steering.

 

If you have the huge adjustable pedal, you may have a problem.
I've seen a few threads where nothing seemed to work well when trying to replace it with other pedals.
Search here, you'll find what I'm referring to.
Standard truck pedals fit pretty well if you shorten them a little.

 

So I got the pedal cut and welded back together. I need a throttle body the one that came on my motor has the throttle position sensor is broken. It's part number 1257080 I'm thinking of installing a Holley high ram. But I need a 4 bolt dbw throttle body, so I was wondering if I could use 12580760 which is a 4 bolt dbw. Let me know if anyone has any answers. I've been searching and haven't found anything yet. Thanks

 

Is it a 6 or 8 pin connector throttle body?

 

The GC steering box is the same size as the Chevelle, so you will need to change the PS pulley. You can modify the pedal, I did it, just think a bit outside the box. Cut off the entire lever fab an arm that works, weld the pedal end back on and go.

 

3 to 4 bolt TB adapter, ebay.

 

I'm using holley 3202-2 pan and it's perfect I have my motor and trans in right now and I have a bunch of room with the pan clearance everywhere 70 chevelle ls3 t56 in mine I'm just trying to get info on trans angle and mount crossmember

 

I used the Auto Kraft pan, dirty dingo sliders, tall and narrow mounts in my 72. Good clearance all around. I also boxed my frame and welded angle iron for the trans which isn't in yet. Engine is a 2007 LQ4 with 4l80e. Jeep steering box also. No headers yet, planning on turbo as well.

 

It's a 8 pin throttle body.

 

If you have a smart phone or tablet tremec has a angle finder app. I plan on using it, it seems sweet. It's called tremec driveline angle finder

 

Here's my pedal after I modified it.

 

I found what's called a X link that looks like it will work to go to a 90mm ls3 throttle body.

 

How was the install and fit on the G-force crossmember? Any pictures of it installed? I'm looking at this for my 70 GTO LH6-4L60E swap. I'm not to keen on modifying my stock crossmember. I really like to find a bolt in alternative that works and takes less modification than stock.

 

OK I'm ordering motor parts and have a couple questions. I'm going to order Holley high ram 92mm, it's going to have a x-link converting from the current dbw throttle body harness to a ls3 90mm throttle body. I'm ordering torquer v3 cam, 650 springs from Texas speed shop. Has anyone had issues with the X link and a ls3 throttle body?

Would I need to use the ls3 mass air flow sensor?

I called aeromotive because I plan on using the stealth efi replacement tank. They said the fuel pump flows to much for the corvette regulator, and would cause premature wear on the pump. So I will have to run a feed and return with there regulator. Has anyone used this set up with the flow through design?

 

I can only vouche for the pump... If a fuel pump company tells you, you have to run -8 feed for a pump and -6 return. You have to run it. The issue is the pump essentially dead heads the whole time because the line size creates a massive restriction plus it cannot bypass enough flow.

With that said... I ran a walbro 255 with a tanks inc unit for 3 years, made 600rwhp.

Id just suggest the stealth tank and a fuel reg up front.

 

Thanks I just figured to do the fuel system as recommended to not run into issues later on.