6.0L and 200-4R
Ill be using the 200-4R with the 6.0L - question is in order to use the 200-4R I need to use a mod for the TV cable. Does this mean that I have no choice but to use a DBC throttle body and there is no option for me to use a DBW TB?
Ill likely swap it out to a 4L60 or 4L80 however, I'm starting out with a built 200.
Anyone?
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The 4L80E weighs 178 lbs in typical configuration. A 4L60E weighs approx. 135-140 lbs, a TH400 weighs 135 lbs, a TH350 weighs 125 lbs. All weights are without converter and dry with stock components. Converter weights will be similar for a given combination with the same size converter. i.e. 12”, 9.5”, 8”.
The 4L80E is very close to the same length as a 4L60E. Oftentimes we have swapped these units out without cutting the driveshaft, just a yoke change. It is more robust in the area behind the bellhousing than most other units. This is also the area where the cooler lines attach. The biggest fitment issue we see is in the cooler line area. Part of the issue is that the cooler lines on a 4L80E are not angled but come straight out of the case. In some cars the early cores (91-96) fit better than the 97-up cores due to the cooler line placement. We know from various installs that the 4L80E fits fairly easily in the 67-69 GM F-Body cars (Camaros Firebirds, and typically X-body Nova’s), 70-81 F-Body. 98-02 F-Body. 68-72 A-Body (Chevelles, Cutlass, GTO, etc), as well as the 78-87 G-Body cars (Malibu, Regal, Cutlass). We have customers who have installed them in 64-67 Chevelles with minor floorpan work.
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If your 6.0 is a 24x reluctor, consider a 411 ecu and DBC harness.
Otherwise, as pointed out, some have adapted the TV cable controller directly to the pedal. There's a Porsche 928 swap on another forum where the DBW pedal was modified to operate an accelerator cable. The opposite end of the cable was hooked to a faux TB that operated the TV cable. Kinda complicated but kept the travel and geometry correct.
I had to validate all of this during the development of the new Hooker G-body crossmember for use in the FEA analysis, so I witnessed it all personally.
It may be valuable for the OP to know that the Hooker crossmember is modular in design and will allow him to reconfigure his powertrain from a 2004R to a 4L80 set-up down the road without having to buy a new crossmember; all that will be needed is to purchase a cantilevered 4L80 adapter bracket for $40.
I'm not against the DBC option but I figured it's the only way to use the 200 as the TV cable must be used. Another $1200-1500 would get me into a 4L80 however and permit me to use the DBW.
Ideally, I'd like a 4L80E but this is a budget build for me...(what build isn't right?)
The trans (200) I currently have has been built with billet internals and built by a guy who knows these 200's. Speedtigger you're absolutely correct in what you've said about the builders of these transmissions. I had to do quite a bit of hunting before I took it somewhere for fear of wasted cash and a weak trans.
Toddoky I have been following your G-Body thread and I thank you for the time and effort you have put into it for guys like me. Based upon your thread and what I see and hear from others I have decided that the Holley / Hooker parts are what I will buy. The convenience of keeping the X member and only buying the $40 piece (prob when I break my 200 lol) makes buying it too much common sense. The mounts and accessory drives are also top notch and will be purchased for this swap.
Here's what's done to my 200:
- CK Performance Stage I rebuild kit
- CK Shift Kit
- 13 Vane pump rotor
- 12" 2800 stall converter
- Billet foreward clutch drum
- Teflon pump bushing
- Hardend stator shaft
- Super Servo
- Sonnax .500" boost valve
It's anyone's guess how much that will handle HP wise...I just read an article at Super Chevy on how to build a 200 to handle 400-800 HP via some parts and methods from Art Carr.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/tra...converter.html
I believe all thats required to use the 200 is a spring change and a bracket on the TB....but maybe someone else can chime in as Blister brought up an important issue...the VSS. How do us 200 guys fix that issue?
Last edited by HOTSIX; Dec 26, 2014 at 12:50 PM. Reason: add
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd109.htm
I followed your build thread way back when. Nice setup. Yours is one of many that inspired me.
93Z2871805 - I am not opposed to it...however opening up the trans is more than I am hoping to do. I paid $600 for an original GN valve body not long ago.
Seems like a hassle to hack up some kind of solution for DBW...think I might just go DBC and avoid the hassle. I think my trans is built enough to handle what I'll throw at it.
Have a look at this:
www.cpttransmission.com
Their 500-750 HP trans is built very similar to mine...but probably with more clutch plates.
Last edited by HOTSIX; Dec 26, 2014 at 12:53 PM. Reason: web add
I followed your build thread way back when. Nice setup. Yours is one of many that inspired me.
93Z2871805 - I am not opposed to it...however opening up the trans is more than I am hoping to do. I paid $600 for an original GN valve body not long ago.
Seems like a hassle to hack up some kind of solution for DBW...think I might just go DBC and avoid the hassle. I think my trans is built enough to handle what I'll throw at it.
Have a look at this:
www.cpttransmission.com
Their 500-750 HP trans is built very similar to mine...but probably with more clutch plates.







