victorallen

I'm considering doing a 5.3 / 4L60 swap into a '66 C-10. I've done a ton of hot rods, restorations, fabrication etc so the mechanical part doesn't bother me but I'm new to the LS stuff and frankly am a little intimidated by the unknown. I've read/researched until my eyes are crossed. I know there are a ton of posts on this but a lot of them are a few years old and a lot of the information is scattered about. The donor vehicle I have found is a wrecked '01 Silverado 2WD with 104K miles. The truck I have and am considering the swap on is a '66 short wide bed, big back glass, factory V8, auto, PS, A/C truck. The original engine is long gone and the truck is solid but nothing nice at all. I just finished another project which is a show truck (383/700r4) and am just wanting this one to be a good reliable driver and am definitely wanting to build it on a budget. A few of the questions I have are:

1) What are the best motor mounts to use? I have the stock towers and would like to use them. I've seen ones that basically are just an adapter plate that use the stock style mounts, does anyone know about these?

2) Although this truck has the factory slave type power steering I will replace it with a later model power steering box. What lines work to use a 70s or 80s style box with the 5.3 pump?

3) Does the A/C compressor have to be relocated to the top of the engine for clearance purpose and if so what brackets can be used?

4) Is there any issues with using the drive by cable and the ECM from the donor truck? I'm not planning on using cruise control.

5) I'm not wanting to spend the money for an aftermarket wiring harness but I've heard that the wiring harness from a car is a lot cleaner and easier to use than the truck harness. Would it be best to get one from a car or just have the truck harness reworked when I get the ECM programmed?

6) On an application like this is the stock cooling fan OK or would it be best to go with an electric, and if so just an aftermarket or is there an OEM that works better?

7) What's the best fuel pump top use? I've seen a few people use the inline Walbro with the corvette filter/regulator and keep the stock tank, any ideas on that setup? Since this will be a budget build I'm really not looking to buy a $500 fuel tank but wouldn't be above a swap to a factory tank under the bed if anyone knows what will work.

8) What's the best headers or manifolds to use? I'm not wanting to cut the frame up so I'm guessing stock manifolds probably aren't an option. From want I can tell a mid-length header may be the best option. If so what is the best fit for this application?

9) I'm thinking of using a stock dimension aluminum radiator, what hoses will work with the 5.3?

Thanks in advance for the information and I apologize for asking questions that have probably been answered several times. I just thought I'd see if there was any new stuff or ideas out there and if possible to get all the information in a somewhat condensed format.

CarrBoost83

look at my 83 build. I would use an electric fan just for the fact that they can be wired into your ecm and ran off of the outputs, and they also look cleaner. the p/s in my 83, all i did was install a new factory line and ran it into the pump on the 5.3 simple simple stuff, the wiring harness is a bit tougher if you want to do it yourself, there is a gobbbbb of wire that will come out of it if you strip it down. painless sells an easy 4 wire hook up and your running. i believe you send them your harness and they put in everything you need. hook up a battery positive a ground and an ignition hot. i couldn't tell you on the a/c since i didn't run it.also as far as the manifolds i would get the engine and stuff it in and see what kind of room you have to work with. i flipped mine upward but i also put a turbo onn mine. the fuel tank and pump issue, you can buy a 15 gallon fuel cell like i did for like 150$ on ebay. they work well and also look good. walbro 255 and a fuel psi regulator and you are golden.

ijimmy

Welcome to the board

) What are the best motor mounts to use? I have the stock towers and would like to use them. I've seen ones that basically are just an adapter plate that use the stock style mounts, does anyone know about these?

ccp is making plate mounts that sound good ,,, perfomance online makes tube mounts that many have used ,,, but be aware they move the engine 1 1/2 to 2 inches toward the radiator

2) Although this truck has the factory slave type power steering I will replace it with a later model power steering box. What lines work to use a 70s or 80s style box with the 5.3 pump?

There are inexpinsive adapters that screw into ls pump and alow use of an lines or your stock line

3) Does the A/C compressor have to be relocated to the top of the engine for clearance purpose and if so what brackets can be used?

Yes in most cases its easier ,,, kwik , and holley both make brackets for top mount

4) Is there any issues with using the drive by cable and the ECM from the donor truck? I'm not planning on using cruise control.

No

5) I'm not wanting to spend the money for an aftermarket wiring harness but I've heard that the wiring harness from a car is a lot cleaner and easier to use than the truck harness. Would it be best to get one from a car or just have the truck harness reworked when I get the ECM programmed?

Its easiest to get as much from the doner , and have that harness reworked , that way everything fits

6) On an application like this is the stock cooling fan OK or would it be best to go with an electric, and if so just an aftermarket or is there an OEM that works better?

Either way works well , many trucks had mechanical fans

7) What's the best fuel pump top use? I've seen a few people use the inline Walbro with the corvette filter/regulator and keep the stock tank, any ideas on that setup? Since this will be a budget build I'm really not looking to buy a $500 fuel tank but wouldn't be above a swap to a factory tank under the bed if anyone knows what will work.


Good time to relocate tank to rear of truck from cab , lmc makes kits for that purpose , 90 jeep wrangler tanks can be made to work allmost as easily , and for the 2 c10 trucks I have put ls motors in I have used stock 03 silverado fuel pumps a corvette regulators

8) What's the best headers or manifolds to use? I'm not wanting to cut the frame up so I'm guessing stock manifolds probably aren't an option. From want I can tell a mid-length header may be the best option. If so what is the best fit for this application?

trailblazer ss manifolds are said to fit , holley makes manifolds that should 'drop in' ,, stock truck manifold will fit with some frame modification on the pasenger side

9) I'm thinking of using a stock dimension aluminum radiator, what hoses will work with the 5.3?

It depends on what water pump is used , camaro pump has outlet on the drvers side , stock truck is on pasengers ,,, I would like some part numbers to try ,, when someone else answers this question

I did use an 03 silverado hose 'I believe' for the top hose on my 68 with the factory truck pump

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

you might wanna check out the lsx swap section of 67-72chevytrucks .com

i used $40 ebay adapter plates and the stock 66 small block perches & mounts. I also used the TBSS headers from pacesetter but they required a little work to both them and the frame.

I wish I had gone the blazer tank/ jeep tank direction. I used a 69 camaro tank from spectra and it's absolute junk. and I lost my trailer hitch in the process.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Wow, that's a whole lotta questions all at once! Anyway, looks like most of your questions have been answered, but I'll throw in a few more details. First, with an '01 engine, you won't need the Corvette fuel filter/regulator. That engine will have a return style fuel rail, and all you need is a feed from the pump through an EFI rated fuel filter to the rail, then a return from the rail back to the tank.

Trailblazer SS manifolds fit really well, but if you can't find them, 2010-up Camaro manifolds also work real well.

I prefer a mechanical fan because they don't burn out, or melt down a weatherpack connector just outside Las Vegas..... yeah, that really happened!

Factory A/C compressor can be made to work down low, but it will take some fabricating of the lines, (if you know a good TIG welder, this is easy) and is kind of tight, but does work.

You can take a look at my build thread in my sig on my rusty '71, it's a pretty low budget build, just one generation newer than your truck.

LXguy

iTrader: (5)

Welcome to the board!

Little bit of help:

These plates will put the bellhousing flange in the same place it was with the small block, or slightly forward or backward of that position. The LS cylinder head is flush with the bellhousing face, and the small block isn't, which can cause firewall clearance problems in some cases, so its good to be able to move it forward of "stock" position.

LSX Motor Mount Adapter PLates

With the style of adapter plates above, the AC does usually need to be relocated upward. Holley sells brackets for this. Note: you have to buy the bracket and the adapters to ensure the proper belt spacing.

They used to have awesome pics of these installed, but I don't see them on their site anymore...

Holley R4 Compressor bracket

Sanden Compressor

Depending on where you live, I'd probably stick with stock.

Good luck!

ijimmy

Here is a picture of holleys bracket system for you , with a 2010 camaro water pump

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

A quick note on your wiring harness question.

You can sell the vortec harness you have for about $100. They have a very undesired routing, so most choose to do away with it, and put that money with what they would have spent for a rewire, and then you are really close to the cost of a new harness. A new harness is longer, has a grommet on it, and is routed like the car harness.

If you purchase a car harness that is in decent shape be prepared to spend at least $200 for the used harness, probably closer to $250-300.

At that point you could save yourself a ton of time and get a new harness. Most DIY guys end up with about 20 hours or so in a harness modification when they do it themselves for the first time.

We do offer DIY kits that will make life easy if you decide to modify your own harness.

http://shop.bp-automotive.com/DIY-St...s-Kits_c10.htm

And if you would decide to just purchase new, you can build the harness you want right on our website when you order.

http://shop.bp-automotive.com/Gen-II...nesses_c27.htm

I hope this helps! Looks like you are asking the right questions, which is good- you will be well prepared when you start your swap!

Bill

dlove

iTrader: (23)

You didn't mention anything about redoing the chassis harness, but you might want to take a look at our offering.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/10112


Regarding the engine harness, the car harness from us is cheaper ($625) vs the truck version ($899) assuming you want to keep the DBW as you mentioned. However the truck one comes with a few more features including a water proof fuse block. Both come with a free reflash of the ECM (~$200 value). If you plan to leave it near stock, we'll turn off the anti-theft, set the speedo, fans, etc. If you plan to do any performance mods to it, you'll want to source a local tuner.

Car- (would require you to change injectors) - http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/60522

Truck - http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/60221

ijimmy

If you plan on lowering the truck ,, a muscle car oil pan will be about even with the crossmember ,, the stock truck pan will be about 2 inches lower , not an issue with a stock height truck ,,, muscle car pans are around $150

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

i like the cts-v pan. fits like it was made for the truck.