Turbo LQ4 Silverado
12-30-2014, 08:04 PM
#1
Turbo LQ4 Silverado I just wanted to share my build of my 2002 Silverado. It originally had a 4.3 and NV3500 and was the most basic model. The engine is the same LQ4 I previously pun in an S10 but I had it rebuilt with forged pistons and rods and ARP fasteners. I replaced the NV3500 with an F-body T56 and MGW short throw shifter. I was able to get the front mount manifold from a member on this forum for a good price and I topped it off with a Turbonetics Benita turbo. I chose a Monster stage 3 clutch because of their outstanding reviews and when I emailed them the owner actually replied and was very helpful.
The trans swap was pretty easy, all I had to do was weld up the original hole and cut a new one a few inches back. I put the transmission in and then from underneath made dents where the hole needed to be. The 5 speed crossmember was perfect and needed no modifications because the F-body T56 mount fell right into the hole. I did have to get a driveshaft from an automatic but that was fairly easy.
I got the crossover pipe along with the manifold so all I had to do was put in a pipe for the wastegate and wrap it. The downpipe was pretty easy. All I did was buy some various bends from Summit Racing and start at the turbo and work down. Before I wrapped it I put a bung for the wideband. The output of the wastegate connects to the exhaust after the downpipe so I can remove it all in sections by v-bands. I put the passenger O2 sensor in the manifold right before the turbo...it is a pain to drill and tap cast stainless steel for anyone who might end up doing it later. I plan on using the 3.5" exhaust off of a 2500HD for that clean stock look and its pre-bent for my truck.
I mounted the intercooler behind the bumper and valance for ease of installation and to keep it out of the way of the radiator. I will end up getting the HD valance that has the hole in the middle for the extra flow. I used leftover pieces of my cold air on the S10 for the filter before the turbo. Lastly, I mounted the MAF right before the throttle body by using a 2.5" to 4" 90* elbow. I've read that you shouldn't put the MAF that close to the throttle body but on my last two S10's it hasn't been a problem.
I also dropped the truck with a 2" drop in the front with spindles and a 4" rear drop with shackles and hangers. I didn't take any pictures of that but its pretty self explanatory. I added a 1" spacer to the driver side front coil to get rid of the "chevy lean" which worked beautifully.
And here is all of the ugly stuff hooked back up and ready to go.
The trans swap was pretty easy, all I had to do was weld up the original hole and cut a new one a few inches back. I put the transmission in and then from underneath made dents where the hole needed to be. The 5 speed crossmember was perfect and needed no modifications because the F-body T56 mount fell right into the hole. I did have to get a driveshaft from an automatic but that was fairly easy.
I got the crossover pipe along with the manifold so all I had to do was put in a pipe for the wastegate and wrap it. The downpipe was pretty easy. All I did was buy some various bends from Summit Racing and start at the turbo and work down. Before I wrapped it I put a bung for the wideband. The output of the wastegate connects to the exhaust after the downpipe so I can remove it all in sections by v-bands. I put the passenger O2 sensor in the manifold right before the turbo...it is a pain to drill and tap cast stainless steel for anyone who might end up doing it later. I plan on using the 3.5" exhaust off of a 2500HD for that clean stock look and its pre-bent for my truck.
I mounted the intercooler behind the bumper and valance for ease of installation and to keep it out of the way of the radiator. I will end up getting the HD valance that has the hole in the middle for the extra flow. I used leftover pieces of my cold air on the S10 for the filter before the turbo. Lastly, I mounted the MAF right before the throttle body by using a 2.5" to 4" 90* elbow. I've read that you shouldn't put the MAF that close to the throttle body but on my last two S10's it hasn't been a problem.
I also dropped the truck with a 2" drop in the front with spindles and a 4" rear drop with shackles and hangers. I didn't take any pictures of that but its pretty self explanatory. I added a 1" spacer to the driver side front coil to get rid of the "chevy lean" which worked beautifully.
And here is all of the ugly stuff hooked back up and ready to go.
12-31-2014, 07:16 PM
#4
Thanks guys!
Today I tackled putting in the Aeromotive 340 Stealth pump, oil catch can, and most of the Innovative Motorsports boost control and gauge. I had tried the pump before but I just put it in place of the old pump and didn't think about it being in an empty bucket so I pulled it out and modified the bucket today to make it work. I included some pictures on how to pull the bed off alone with a cherry picker.
The oil catch can was super simple and I just mounted it toward the cab in the engine bay so it is out of the way. I used a FOMOCO one way PCV valve to keep from pressurizing the engine under boost. The PCV valve fit in nicely with a new grommet on the valve cover.
The gauge is a boost gauge, wideband, and boost controller all in one to keep from having multiple gauges so here is the MAP and solenoid install. I used metal line to go from the solenoid to the wastegate so heat from the downpipe isn't an issue in the future. In the last picture the huge plug is for the wideband O2 and has previsions to attach for tuning software or another gauge if you are into that kind of thing.
Today I tackled putting in the Aeromotive 340 Stealth pump, oil catch can, and most of the Innovative Motorsports boost control and gauge. I had tried the pump before but I just put it in place of the old pump and didn't think about it being in an empty bucket so I pulled it out and modified the bucket today to make it work. I included some pictures on how to pull the bed off alone with a cherry picker.
The oil catch can was super simple and I just mounted it toward the cab in the engine bay so it is out of the way. I used a FOMOCO one way PCV valve to keep from pressurizing the engine under boost. The PCV valve fit in nicely with a new grommet on the valve cover.
The gauge is a boost gauge, wideband, and boost controller all in one to keep from having multiple gauges so here is the MAP and solenoid install. I used metal line to go from the solenoid to the wastegate so heat from the downpipe isn't an issue in the future. In the last picture the huge plug is for the wideband O2 and has previsions to attach for tuning software or another gauge if you are into that kind of thing.
12-31-2014, 10:21 PM
#5
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02 hd exhaust uses dual exx hast from manifolds throught the muffler then after the muffler becomes a single 2.75 pipe I believe. The muffler is dual in dual out. Rcsb hd either.
just a little advice on your air filter make a shield the cuts it off from the engine bay as air temps get hot like that. I don't have a turbo but tuning mine on a warm day my ait's got high a d kept pulling a little timing. After making a shield and insulating it and mod dingthe fender and rad support to get more fresh cold air Iit helped out a lot.
nice build I'm planning on adding a turbo to my 6.0 hd similar to what your doing but it'sa long bed 4x4 it's a ton heavier then what you got going.
just a little advice on your air filter make a shield the cuts it off from the engine bay as air temps get hot like that. I don't have a turbo but tuning mine on a warm day my ait's got high a d kept pulling a little timing. After making a shield and insulating it and mod dingthe fender and rad support to get more fresh cold air Iit helped out a lot.
nice build I'm planning on adding a turbo to my 6.0 hd similar to what your doing but it'sa long bed 4x4 it's a ton heavier then what you got going.
01-01-2015, 09:44 AM
#6
Thanks for the tips man! I'm in the process of making the shield now to keep it separated from the hot air. And the exhaust I have been looking at is on mostly the duramax trucks and has a 3.5" single in and out muffler. I thought it was 3" but measured at the junkyard.
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01-01-2015, 01:40 PM
#9
Thanks for the tips man! I'm in the process of making the shield now to keep it separated from the hot air. And the exhaust I have been looking at is on mostly the duramax trucks and has a 3.5" single in and out muffler. I thought it was 3" but measured at the junkyard.
01-04-2015, 05:07 PM
#11
Here is a quick video with the exhaust out the back. For anyone picking turbo sizes, the Benita I have (7868 .96 ar) seems pretty good for my 6.0. It was afraid it would spool way to fast but you have to want it to make boost so daily driving around is nice.
02-23-2015, 05:18 PM
#12
Just a small update for anyone who followed this. I switched out the manual windows and locks to electric, added leather seats, painted it, and lastly got it dyno'd. I don't have the chart but I'll get it soon. At 4psi it made 410 rwhp and 487 rwtq. The boost controller wouldn't keep the gate closed so we had to stop there until I investigate further. The wheels aren't as big as they look in the picture. I was just downhill.
Leather seats installed and door panels
Parts girl with 3.5" in and out glass pack
And overall
Leather seats installed and door panels
Parts girl with 3.5" in and out glass pack
And overall
03-08-2015, 07:40 PM
#16
Kind of an odd job but today I got rid of the steel antenna and put a generic eBay shark fin antenna on the roof. The whole reason I went this route is because the previous owner had a CB and I didn't close the hole before we painted.
03-19-2015, 03:35 PM
#19
After troubleshooting everything possible, I believe my Tial is a knockoff and bleeding boost. I reran every vacuum line and pvc hose to be sure nothing was wrong also with no change. I refuse to believe the turbo is too small because of similar builds. It loses about 1 PSI by redline no matter what spring or boost controller setting I put in it.