1937 Ford Sedan
Next: Steering. Oh boy been dreading this
Got a shorty column from Ididit and first mounted it like this.


Didn't really like the column mounts because they hung down too far. Didn't really like the flange bearing at the firewall because it just didn't feel right. SO, fast forward to rev 3 or so
Fab director created this 2 piece mount that will cradle the column and be mounted with t bolt clamps that will be hidden. I said "Will the T bolt clamps be strong enough?" He said "They use 8 of them to mount a Top Fuel motor " so I figured he had thought this through
. AND the drop down piece I will build for the dash, which will be about 2" lower, will hide the brackets, so it will be hidden nicely and have a very clean look and be comfortable to drive
And we got to the rack with minimal angles on a total of 4 u joints. We studied very hard on a steer clear unit, but this was actually a much better way. Cant wait to feel it on the highway, but it sure does feel good in the shop
No binding whatsoever because the angles are very small. I did build a stand for 2 heim joints out on the frame that will be in later pics, but the shorty column was definitely the key to make that turn toward the rack early. Thanks Ken and Eric for advice on this!!
1st half

2nd half - big hole is for column harness

In car - feels great looks great thanks fab director for this idea!

More soon on the rest of the steering...............................
Got a shorty column from Ididit and first mounted it like this.

Didn't really like the column mounts because they hung down too far. Didn't really like the flange bearing at the firewall because it just didn't feel right. SO, fast forward to rev 3 or so

Fab director created this 2 piece mount that will cradle the column and be mounted with t bolt clamps that will be hidden. I said "Will the T bolt clamps be strong enough?" He said "They use 8 of them to mount a Top Fuel motor " so I figured he had thought this through
. AND the drop down piece I will build for the dash, which will be about 2" lower, will hide the brackets, so it will be hidden nicely and have a very clean look and be comfortable to drive
And we got to the rack with minimal angles on a total of 4 u joints. We studied very hard on a steer clear unit, but this was actually a much better way. Cant wait to feel it on the highway, but it sure does feel good in the shop
No binding whatsoever because the angles are very small. I did build a stand for 2 heim joints out on the frame that will be in later pics, but the shorty column was definitely the key to make that turn toward the rack early. Thanks Ken and Eric for advice on this!! 1st half

2nd half - big hole is for column harness

In car - feels great looks great thanks fab director for this idea!

More soon on the rest of the steering...............................
Thanks ! there is a fix so you can see the early pictures if you are using firefox.
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-us/fir...otobucket-fix/
And this for Google chrome
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...flicjjgj?hl=en
They worked for me.
As for the surgery I had mine done ( Not breaking it ) and now pollips are back have to go again. as well as the second side. Don't do too much bending over!!! I hope you feel better soon.
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-us/fir...otobucket-fix/
And this for Google chrome
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...flicjjgj?hl=en
They worked for me.
As for the surgery I had mine done ( Not breaking it ) and now pollips are back have to go again. as well as the second side. Don't do too much bending over!!! I hope you feel better soon.
The steering shaft went through a place on the firewall that had a radius in it. I had to figure out what to do with this ugly hole and also seal it somehow. I don't know how people normally do this, but I just went with my idea and it could still be refined later if it doesn't work out.

I had a piece made on a lathe that would hold a seal around the shaft. You cant tell from this pic but it has a recess on the backside. Once this piece was built I just kind of worked off of that.

I tacked a temporary bushing to hold alignment during fab and welding. This is where the seal will live.

Roughed in. OK body man make me look good

I had a piece made on a lathe that would hold a seal around the shaft. You cant tell from this pic but it has a recess on the backside. Once this piece was built I just kind of worked off of that.

I tacked a temporary bushing to hold alignment during fab and welding. This is where the seal will live.

Roughed in. OK body man make me look good
Now that the steering is mostly figured out it is time to nail the motor. Had some material broke and carved out a couple of mounts.

Verified all dimensions and tacked mounts in place. Although not shown in this picture, the steering shaft didn't interfere with the motor mount
. Feels good when you get to finally nail some stuff down and you know everything else should fit.

Verified all dimensions and tacked mounts in place. Although not shown in this picture, the steering shaft didn't interfere with the motor mount
. Feels good when you get to finally nail some stuff down and you know everything else should fit.
Attn Ken and Karl:
That's about all the updates for now thanks for asking about the project. As soon as I heal up I'm going to tackle the exhaust system. I know I'll have to notch the frame where the exhaust manifolds are sitting on top of the frame right now. Then make some pass throughs for the crossmembers. Also considering cutting out the rear crossmember that has a drop in the middle and make one that goes straight across to give the tailpipes more room. I have started a thread called "Quite exhaust ideas??". If you have any input lay it on me. More soon..........
That's about all the updates for now thanks for asking about the project. As soon as I heal up I'm going to tackle the exhaust system. I know I'll have to notch the frame where the exhaust manifolds are sitting on top of the frame right now. Then make some pass throughs for the crossmembers. Also considering cutting out the rear crossmember that has a drop in the middle and make one that goes straight across to give the tailpipes more room. I have started a thread called "Quite exhaust ideas??". If you have any input lay it on me. More soon..........
Yes, I would definitely get rid of the rear transverse leaf spring crossmember. That's the mistake I made by keeping mine. Was real convenient to mount the shocks to, but totally in the way of putting any kind of tail pipes in there. I also considered going under the rear end, but with the sway bar under the axle, I just think it would be too low.
Great updates. How the recovery from the surgery is going well. I have thought about getting my sinus passages done since I have broken my nose three times since middle school. I keep putting it off because I don't want to go thru the recovery part, that and knock on wood, I have not had much problem the last few years....
Man, I feel like a slacker. I haven't done anything on mine yet. I did build this in the interim out of my cast off parts. I hate to get rid of anything, so the stuff that is "so so" goes on the shop truck. The good stuff gets reserved for the next build. I'm definitely gonna pick your brain on this deal. We are building an LS powered 68 El Camino though.
January 11th I received a phone call from law enforcement that my Dad had been found deceased.....probably the hardest blow I have ever taken. It was totally unexpected. I've had many personal struggles the past 3 months dealing with his possessions, finances, etc., etc. I know this is a car chatboard but just these few sentences helps me heal! Thanks to my local gearheads for helping me through it. I do know one thing for sure...my Dad, who was a bonified car guy, would want me in the shop finishing this project! Rest easy Dad while me and the fab director try to get back in the groove on this project
Stay tuned..............
Stay tuned.............. Yes, this is a car forum, which makes all of us and you car guys, which means you have our support thru the times you are going thru right now! You have my, and I would think many others' sincere condolences on losing your father! May he rest in peace!
Kharp...stay strong and remember the good times.
Andrew
Thanks for your responses it certainly means ALOT! It really does. I'm going to play all of my Dads CD collection (300+) on my new shop stereo while I try to get back on track on this car
. But first I'm going to catch up on some posts. I had talked about making another rear crossmember to allow more room for tailpipes etc. Eric and Ken were on board with the idea so here we go. Here is the original.

My buddy Butch has a large press to bend the 3/16 material. Had to play with some sample stuff and then made 2 pieces in case I screwed one up. The last bends on each side run wild and will be trimmed later.

Made a wood jig to get both ends square to the world.


Made some tabs to hold it while I got the final fit done on the lips and the ends. I think it looks much cleaner than the factory piece.

Tacked it in place and made a shock tool for building the mounts.

Boy did I get a bunch of opinions on shock angles. I ended up mounting them straight up and down and 15 degrees side to side.

Only thing left is the final welding, which I'll get a bunch of things welded at one time by a "real" welder
.
. But first I'm going to catch up on some posts. I had talked about making another rear crossmember to allow more room for tailpipes etc. Eric and Ken were on board with the idea so here we go. Here is the original. 
My buddy Butch has a large press to bend the 3/16 material. Had to play with some sample stuff and then made 2 pieces in case I screwed one up. The last bends on each side run wild and will be trimmed later.

Made a wood jig to get both ends square to the world.


Made some tabs to hold it while I got the final fit done on the lips and the ends. I think it looks much cleaner than the factory piece.

Tacked it in place and made a shock tool for building the mounts.

Boy did I get a bunch of opinions on shock angles. I ended up mounting them straight up and down and 15 degrees side to side.

Only thing left is the final welding, which I'll get a bunch of things welded at one time by a "real" welder
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