Rowdy burnouts and loud noises: The LSX/Subaru swap project
#521
not sure what they're made of, but i have both sizes and use them pretty hard and have yet to have any issues other than the sticker melting. I've tried pretty much all the crazy cups out there (toxic, cdaven, pyrex, furric, arczone) and the gls have become my favorite cause i don't have to lose sleep at night if my torch slips off my lap/the bench. Doesn't matter in the end though, they all work awesome when a #7/8 wont do
#522
not sure what they're made of, but i have both sizes and use them pretty hard and have yet to have any issues other than the sticker melting. I've tried pretty much all the crazy cups out there (toxic, cdaven, pyrex, furric, arczone) and the gls have become my favorite cause i don't have to lose sleep at night if my torch slips off my lap/the bench. Doesn't matter in the end though, they all work awesome when a #7/8 wont do
If you have been keeping up with the saga this weekend was for the Wastegate provisions. As you saw in my previous post I wanted a cohesive look for the Wastegate placement, a "factory" look if you will. Now as per usual things didn't necessarily go according to my original placement plan. I started with the passenger side as that one had the longest path to take. I used my handy-dandy tube notcher and a few pieces of pie and tacked it in place.
Mounting the driver's side waste gate where I planned was going to interfere with the hood, and as I've probably said multiple times, I don't like parts of the engine poking through the hood. So instead I mirrored the passenger side and canted it to the same degree. I hand notched this one with a angle grinder as steep angles and stainless don't play nice to holesaws.
And off the the car
I ran out of gas welding the pie cuts so I was only able to tack the provisions to the crossover, on a measly 5cfh but no grays thanks to my lovely fupa cup.
To top off the weekend I was able to scoop up my 8.8 and low and behold it fits my driveshaft length wise, thank you foxbody forums. Width wise it fits pretty well and I believe I'll be able to stuff a 28 inch slick into the fender for a real meaty sidewall.
#523
My downpipe material and marmon clamp for the exhaust housing came in yesterday. I made a paper template prior to placing the order to insure i wasn't waisting my money on 5 inch SS. I talked to a few tuners and the general consensus was a BW S480 will drop 50-75whp up top and about 500rpm worth of spool time if i necked from a 5 inch to 4 inch downpipe. That's enough to feel it in the seat of your pants so I opted for the 5 inch.
Here's the template. It left me about 2 inches between the block and theorerical downpipe.
The chopsaw at work didn't have a large enough diameter disc so I called in a favor and was able to cut 10 pies on a super nice liquid cooled bandsaw.
Lets hope it fits like my template did.
Here's the template. It left me about 2 inches between the block and theorerical downpipe.
The chopsaw at work didn't have a large enough diameter disc so I called in a favor and was able to cut 10 pies on a super nice liquid cooled bandsaw.
Lets hope it fits like my template did.
#524
Three day weekend and three days or so worth of progress. Having the precut 5 inch pies was a godsend as my chop saw could even make a full cut through a straight section with a 14 inch disc. The crush washer that holds the dish centered gets in the way.
As you may remember I was worried about making the 180 degree bend around the turbine without going through the hood. I was pleasantly surprised that my template was indeed accurate and I had well over an inch of clearance between the block and downpipe.
Coming up and over the compressor was tricky as I didn't want to interfere with the hood or wastegates while also giving the compressor and headlight ample room.
I foresee needing a heatshield behind the headlight to keep the plug from melting but it does have 3-4 inches of space so I will cross that bridge when the time comes.
As promised, I went with a bullhorn-esque style out of the fender. I drew inspiration from war time fighter planes like the P51 with a slight turn up. Cutting the hole in the fender sucked, they make it look alot easier on Instagram.
Since the holdays gifted me with an extra day I started knocking out the wastegate screamers as well. Originally I was going to recirculate them but space constraints dashed that. Instead i decided to merge the two gates and have a single 2.25 inch screamer on the back side of the downpipe.
It is starting to get a lot easier to lay out bends and picture where I want them to go compared to when I started this whole affair.
As you may remember I was worried about making the 180 degree bend around the turbine without going through the hood. I was pleasantly surprised that my template was indeed accurate and I had well over an inch of clearance between the block and downpipe.
Coming up and over the compressor was tricky as I didn't want to interfere with the hood or wastegates while also giving the compressor and headlight ample room.
I foresee needing a heatshield behind the headlight to keep the plug from melting but it does have 3-4 inches of space so I will cross that bridge when the time comes.
As promised, I went with a bullhorn-esque style out of the fender. I drew inspiration from war time fighter planes like the P51 with a slight turn up. Cutting the hole in the fender sucked, they make it look alot easier on Instagram.
Since the holdays gifted me with an extra day I started knocking out the wastegate screamers as well. Originally I was going to recirculate them but space constraints dashed that. Instead i decided to merge the two gates and have a single 2.25 inch screamer on the back side of the downpipe.
It is starting to get a lot easier to lay out bends and picture where I want them to go compared to when I started this whole affair.
#526
While it's running and driving it shouldn't be an issue. Parked, I would think it would be though. I'll have to see if I can get get some rubber pipe plugs like they use to wash Motorcycles with or something along those lines.
#527
Just carry around a slip over flapper, like the guys running stacks have. That way you could put it on when you park if its going to rain, and if you forget to take it off, it won't fly away. But then run most of the time without because those things look awful.
Nice work. The instagram comment had me rolling. Everything looks easier on insta
Nice work. The instagram comment had me rolling. Everything looks easier on insta
#528
Just carry around a slip over flapper, like the guys running stacks have. That way you could put it on when you park if its going to rain, and if you forget to take it off, it won't fly away. But then run most of the time without because those things look awful.
Nice work. The instagram comment had me rolling. Everything looks easier on insta
Nice work. The instagram comment had me rolling. Everything looks easier on insta
It's true how social media and television make it look so easy. They don't show the three hours it takes to cut all the individual pies, deburr them inside and out and then put it all together.
#529
You'd probably have to make it, but most slide on over tubes. Might be tough with the tube shape at the cut off, not being a straight section. Just make sure to pick a high temp material, it'd suck to have a rubber plug melt down into your turbo...
#530
The ones I have for my motocross bike are silicone based but the muffler barely gets hot enough to burn you. Seeing how the turbine reaches into the 1500° range I wpuld imagine the downpipe gets pretty toasty.
#533
I used to work on enclosed generators, and we had turbos that would cause heat issues after shutdowns and catalysts too. You obviously aren't worrying about catalysts, but the radiant heat even after shutdown can be pretty high. Just something to keep in mind as you get laying out some heat shields and stuff.
#535
As many of you might have figured by now I'm pretty into bikes, moreso than cars most days. Two Thursday's ago a car pulled out of there blind drive and left me with either a rock lined drainage ditch or a guardrail to choose from. Logically I chose the guardrail since I had no intentions of being impaled. A brief trip to the ER informed me that I had severe muscle trauma and a fair bit of internal bleeding. My right thigh took the worst of it.
Now as you might have guessed this slowed progress down a bit. Fortunately the swelling had gone down enough for me to make some progress this weekend. As you might remember from my previous post I was ready to start making the screamers. I tacked the nearest screamer and merge in place for a test fit.
The second wastegate was slightly trickier. After cutting out a few shallower pies I was able to tape together the second screamer. After tacking it together i was quite dismayed to find it about a half inch too long. I was quite confused at this point as my pieces generally shrink after welding not the other way around. While this sounds like an easy fix the bends all operate at slightly different planes so altering dimensions to fit can go bad really fast. I decided that rather than trying to cut it apart i would alter its path slightly to make up for the extra length. I ended up twisting the second screamer on its axis pulling it closer to the wastegate and then adding a straight piece to make up the difference.
The tip after the merge is leftover 2.25" from the crossover and I matched the tip angles for a more pleasing look. This wraps up the hot side other than welding.
Now as you might have guessed this slowed progress down a bit. Fortunately the swelling had gone down enough for me to make some progress this weekend. As you might remember from my previous post I was ready to start making the screamers. I tacked the nearest screamer and merge in place for a test fit.
The second wastegate was slightly trickier. After cutting out a few shallower pies I was able to tape together the second screamer. After tacking it together i was quite dismayed to find it about a half inch too long. I was quite confused at this point as my pieces generally shrink after welding not the other way around. While this sounds like an easy fix the bends all operate at slightly different planes so altering dimensions to fit can go bad really fast. I decided that rather than trying to cut it apart i would alter its path slightly to make up for the extra length. I ended up twisting the second screamer on its axis pulling it closer to the wastegate and then adding a straight piece to make up the difference.
The tip after the merge is leftover 2.25" from the crossover and I matched the tip angles for a more pleasing look. This wraps up the hot side other than welding.
#537
You and me both! Thats what I like about the motocross world, generally the only time you go down is from your own doing.
#539
More progress to was had this weekend. After doing an entire hotside I am finally getting more comfortable with stainless technique wise to really start pumping out some halfway consistent welds.
I started with the screamers as those were what I was worried about the most. Being they attach at two points with bands, there was not a terribly large margin of error for shrinkage. To combat this I welded about 90 percent of it still clamped to the gates which were also clamped to there corresponding places. This seemed to do the trick along with pretty decent fit up if I do say so myself, and after welding the screamer clamped in with little fuss.
A few welds from said screamer
The downpipe went rather quickly as doing large diamter tube is nearly as easy as welding along a flat surface. Again no shrinkage on this one either.
And the glamour shots
The next two big items on the list are the cold side and sorting the solid axle. I finished the upper chassis side brackets for the 4 link last night in Fusion. Its nice to have a 3d model to reference instead of various doodles.