Rowdy burnouts and loud noises: The LSX/Subaru swap project
#561
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Teddy - Sorry my post above exuded arrogance. I stand by my theory, but there was no reason to flaunt my degree or "bet cash money" on it. I was really grumpy yesterday! I'm sorry that came out in keyboard jockeying and poo-pooing on your plans. You did the right thing researching it yourself! Keep up the great work!
#562
Teddy - Sorry my post above exuded arrogance. I stand by my theory, but there was no reason to flaunt my degree or "bet cash money" on it. I was really grumpy yesterday! I'm sorry that came out in keyboard jockeying and poo-pooing on your plans. You did the right thing researching it yourself! Keep up the great work!
#563
I'm nowhere near an engineer but I think most if not all double pass radiator the cores are horizontal. I could see more of an issue with air pockets if you modded that radiator with the inlet and outlet at the tops of the tank.
#564
I had not even considered air pockets. I ended up just chopping the standard ports and tacking in the -20 fittings. I'll weld them on my own welder this weekend, I do not care for the lincoln at work.
#565
Awesome build man. I see your welding comming along great. A few tips for stainless, back purge or use solar flux on the back of the weld. It will improve the appearance a lot. And will keep the weld from sugaring on the back. Stainless even tho it melts at lower amprerage, you have to take into consideration how much heat you are putting into the weld. That will determine your heat affected zone. It migh not make sense at first, but try it on some scrap.
Turn up your heat get the puddle started fast, and run with it.
When you start welding aluminum, you air cooled torch is going to **** you off. Go with a 20 size water cooled. My weapon of choice is a ck worldwide with a flex head. Now for water cooled, you probably dont have a cooler yet. You can make one for under 100$. Or you can feed your torch from your water spiket and have it dump outside. It really doesnt take that much.
For messing with tubing, a few tips. When i get mandrel bends 180* i make a carboard template of the tubing, actually a bunch of them. And cut them up so i have 90, 45, 22.5, 11 and 7* so i do the mockup with the pieces that are the same radiua of the tubing im using, then do the cutting.
As of cutting, the best tool i have is a portable hf bandsaw mounted similar to the swag offroad kit and a harbor freight 12" disc sander with a 60grit zirconia disc( pricy but well worth it) to square up the cuts.
As for the sway bar, you need one. I'd go with a frame mounted one.
For the intercooler,i'd recommend air to water. People get wrapped up with heat soak on the street, but with a well planned heat exchanger system it would be no problem.
Again man, great build, can't wait to see it finished. If you have any questions, don't hessitate.
Turn up your heat get the puddle started fast, and run with it.
When you start welding aluminum, you air cooled torch is going to **** you off. Go with a 20 size water cooled. My weapon of choice is a ck worldwide with a flex head. Now for water cooled, you probably dont have a cooler yet. You can make one for under 100$. Or you can feed your torch from your water spiket and have it dump outside. It really doesnt take that much.
For messing with tubing, a few tips. When i get mandrel bends 180* i make a carboard template of the tubing, actually a bunch of them. And cut them up so i have 90, 45, 22.5, 11 and 7* so i do the mockup with the pieces that are the same radiua of the tubing im using, then do the cutting.
As of cutting, the best tool i have is a portable hf bandsaw mounted similar to the swag offroad kit and a harbor freight 12" disc sander with a 60grit zirconia disc( pricy but well worth it) to square up the cuts.
As for the sway bar, you need one. I'd go with a frame mounted one.
For the intercooler,i'd recommend air to water. People get wrapped up with heat soak on the street, but with a well planned heat exchanger system it would be no problem.
Again man, great build, can't wait to see it finished. If you have any questions, don't hessitate.
#566
^^Thanks for the advice! Im going air to air, air to water isn't neccessary for what I want to do and furtger complicates packaging more so than it already is.
Twas a rather rainy weekend so all the better to whip up some brackets. The radiator was up first as its resting place would determine charge pipe routing as well as overflow placement. Utilizing my new punch flares I whipped up some simple upper and lower brackets. They are use rubber bushings between the bolts but they are not pictured as I forgot them in my box at work.
Two of the fan shroud tabs were bent in shipping so a few tweeks and that was mounted as well.
Now that the radiator was in its home, the overflow could be placed. There was not enough room on the tube front for it so the tower will do fine. I just need to snag some hardware at work and drill the two holes in the tower to weld in the studs.
Twas a rather rainy weekend so all the better to whip up some brackets. The radiator was up first as its resting place would determine charge pipe routing as well as overflow placement. Utilizing my new punch flares I whipped up some simple upper and lower brackets. They are use rubber bushings between the bolts but they are not pictured as I forgot them in my box at work.
Two of the fan shroud tabs were bent in shipping so a few tweeks and that was mounted as well.
Now that the radiator was in its home, the overflow could be placed. There was not enough room on the tube front for it so the tower will do fine. I just need to snag some hardware at work and drill the two holes in the tower to weld in the studs.
#569
They are mittler brothers dimple dies with the punches. You can just get them as flare dies for a bit cheaper.
#570
A productive week/weekend if I do say so myself. I brought my valve covers to work and knocked out the catch can breathers will relative ease. The stock PCV ports are just getting capped.
Up next was the thermostat housing. That required a quick 90 added to it. The -20 tube ends take up a bunch of space and would not clear the radiator elsewise.
The catch can found its forever home nestled next to the overflow on the passenger tower. It had a fingers breath of room with the primary so I figured a bit more clearnace never hurt.
I figured the end tanks would be the hardest part of the cold side so I started there. Bending pieces and having them come out to the desired length and location is always a struggle for me, thankfully 4xxx aluminum is rather pliable. I need to borrow mt buddies bead roller so I can add the tubes to the end tanks and weld everything up.
Up next was the thermostat housing. That required a quick 90 added to it. The -20 tube ends take up a bunch of space and would not clear the radiator elsewise.
The catch can found its forever home nestled next to the overflow on the passenger tower. It had a fingers breath of room with the primary so I figured a bit more clearnace never hurt.
I figured the end tanks would be the hardest part of the cold side so I started there. Bending pieces and having them come out to the desired length and location is always a struggle for me, thankfully 4xxx aluminum is rather pliable. I need to borrow mt buddies bead roller so I can add the tubes to the end tanks and weld everything up.
#572
#574
Cool, cool, cool. First on the weekends list was knock out the mounts for the intercooler so I could have a target to shoot for regarding the charge pipes. Obviously I would forget my die set at work but i pre-drilled the mount for it so I can dimple it at a later date.
Don't mind tbe hammer marks on this mount, the picture was "pre-finishing".
As always I go hardest to easiest so the throttle side was first. After looking at Terry's success with the Millwaukee hole dozers I gave them a shot rather than my usual Lenox variety. I was not disappointed at all.
There was not enough room for a coupler straight off the end tank so I shortened a 90 and welded it directly to the tank after bead rolling of course.
Then it was a simple matter of shortening the radius of the second 90 and the throttle side is done.
Now that things were going well a wrench had to be inserted somehwhere, in this case the second charge pipe could not easily be constructed from bends so pies it was. Prepping pies in general sucks, prepping aluminum pies is downright mind numbing but the deed was done and whipped up the second charge pipe with relative ease. Aftter drilling the hole it was a simple matter of point and shoot.
There will be a silcone coupler between the long portion right off the tank and where the pies stop since the compressor has a Vband. Next week is a plethora of welding and installing the blow off valves, which poses a question. Pre-cooler or post-cooler for the BOVs? Consensus seems to be closer to the throttle body the better. What say you?
#575
It was pointed out to me that if you dump the air before you cool it, it puts less heat into your intercooler.
It may be trivial, the person that explained that didn't seem to think it mattered much either way, but that is why he does it that way.
Last edited by Tim H; 08-29-2018 at 08:37 PM.
#576
TECH Senior Member
I can see the reasoning for the pre-intercooler BOV. Why cool air that will be blown off?? JUST cool the air that will be USED! Makes perfect sense...
#579
I always put mine closest to the throttle body, but my last one I put before the intercooler.
It was pointed out to me that if you dump the air before you cool it, it puts less heat into your intercooler.
It may be trivial, the person that explained that didn't seem to think it mattered much either way, but that is why he does it that way.
It was pointed out to me that if you dump the air before you cool it, it puts less heat into your intercooler.
It may be trivial, the person that explained that didn't seem to think it mattered much either way, but that is why he does it that way.
Its not often I run out of things to progress further on but I guess that's what long weekends are for.
First on the agenda was welding the turbo side chargepipe. That went smoothly as a tacked it in several areas while it was mocked up to prevent any shrinkage or unpredictable movement. I also remembered my dies for the core mount.
As with anything I have bought from Ace Race Parts the core welded like butter. It was getting close to being a bit thick for the trusty Eastwood so I preheated everything with a small propane torch to smooth things along. Here's two of the better beads laid.
The blow off valves made there permanent residence on the upper charge pipe with enough clearance to even mount my grill!
#580
Last week I ordered everything required to plumb the car, water/oil/fuel. Thanks to the hurricane a lot of the packages that were supposed to arrive got postponed to this week, although a few brave souls made it.
My radiator fittings and the braided line showed up. Man do I hate braided line. It sucks to cut, manipulate, and even though I ordered nylon braid it still beat the heck out of my fingers. After battling the assembly of the fittings for a solid few hours, my dad and I prevailed. Makes me very glad I went push-lock for the rest of the lines.
The other brave soul to make through the storm was my scavenge pump. The turbo drain is rather low and is on the verge of being level so I figured better safe than sorry. I whipped up a quick dimpled plate and attached it to the tube front. It's rubber mounted so hopefully the noise is kept to a minimum.
I also made a trip to the local pick and pull. I scored an oil cap, coil bracket hardware, throttle body nuts, and steam vents for a solid 5$.
My radiator fittings and the braided line showed up. Man do I hate braided line. It sucks to cut, manipulate, and even though I ordered nylon braid it still beat the heck out of my fingers. After battling the assembly of the fittings for a solid few hours, my dad and I prevailed. Makes me very glad I went push-lock for the rest of the lines.
The other brave soul to make through the storm was my scavenge pump. The turbo drain is rather low and is on the verge of being level so I figured better safe than sorry. I whipped up a quick dimpled plate and attached it to the tube front. It's rubber mounted so hopefully the noise is kept to a minimum.
I also made a trip to the local pick and pull. I scored an oil cap, coil bracket hardware, throttle body nuts, and steam vents for a solid 5$.