Rowdy burnouts and loud noises: The LSX/Subaru swap project
#361
I hope you take this criticism as constructive. Your welds are getting much better, but you're still undercutting pretty badly in some spots. Push more rod into the puddle. Work on you fit-ups more so you don't have to fill such big gaps. Use a flapper wheel instead of a rockwheel and grind with the direction of the tube instead of across it.
#363
#364
Long overdue update, but I am indeed back...Sans premie. There's been a few bumps In the road to making the V2 rear subframe.
My roomate hired me to build a downpipe back exhaust for his MK6 gti. Midway through that my truck decides to over heat and blow its coolant all over me and the mall parking lot. An ice-clogged radiator proved to be the culprit.
My garage isn't heated so welding a bunch of pie cuts in freezing temperatures didn't sound like a good time. Thankfully I have the metal table in the dining room. I proceeded to drag my argon bottle up my back steps. It had snowed the night before and had since turned to ice. I slipped and dropped the cylinder. I had the cap on so there wasn't a ton of drama other than it glanced off the left foot. Upon further inspection it had crushed my toe nail and tore the skin off with it.
Shortly after that a wire in my TIG pedal kinked and broke. After pulling apart the entire pedal just to get to the potentiometer, I soldered in a new length of wire and got back to business. The finished product is a flat black.
Back to the rear subframe. Like the front I went simple and strong.
I utilized the factory ends right up to the lateral link mounts. I boxed all four link mounts and the ends themselves with .125 sheet. The two sides are connected via 1.5" .120 wall tube. The cover is solid bushing mounted while the front retains a factory rubber bushing.
The tubes are gusseted both vertically and horizontally with .125 sheet.
My parents got me a Brykes Racing quick release for Christmas. They're used by Ford Motorsports IMSA cars. I wanted something smaller than the traditional street car quick releases so it didn't stand out.
My roomate hired me to build a downpipe back exhaust for his MK6 gti. Midway through that my truck decides to over heat and blow its coolant all over me and the mall parking lot. An ice-clogged radiator proved to be the culprit.
My garage isn't heated so welding a bunch of pie cuts in freezing temperatures didn't sound like a good time. Thankfully I have the metal table in the dining room. I proceeded to drag my argon bottle up my back steps. It had snowed the night before and had since turned to ice. I slipped and dropped the cylinder. I had the cap on so there wasn't a ton of drama other than it glanced off the left foot. Upon further inspection it had crushed my toe nail and tore the skin off with it.
Shortly after that a wire in my TIG pedal kinked and broke. After pulling apart the entire pedal just to get to the potentiometer, I soldered in a new length of wire and got back to business. The finished product is a flat black.
Back to the rear subframe. Like the front I went simple and strong.
I utilized the factory ends right up to the lateral link mounts. I boxed all four link mounts and the ends themselves with .125 sheet. The two sides are connected via 1.5" .120 wall tube. The cover is solid bushing mounted while the front retains a factory rubber bushing.
The tubes are gusseted both vertically and horizontally with .125 sheet.
My parents got me a Brykes Racing quick release for Christmas. They're used by Ford Motorsports IMSA cars. I wanted something smaller than the traditional street car quick releases so it didn't stand out.
#366
My steering wheel showed up late last week.
I had a large internal debate on whether or not I was going to go suede or leather. I decided on leather because it contrast nicely with the cars more functional aspects.
Adapting my quick release to the wheel was straight forward, utilizing a essentially a scaled down version of your typical wheel spacer. The male side of the quick release is welded to .75" .120 wall tubing which I hammered over the stock steering shaft splines and then welded as well. The column mount idea I stole from my professors 25.1 chassis. It exceeds the SFI requirements being a collapsible column.
Extending the u-joint shaft was as easy as it was the last time I did it 
It was raining or else I would have pulled it out and got better pictures of it together.
I had a large internal debate on whether or not I was going to go suede or leather. I decided on leather because it contrast nicely with the cars more functional aspects.
Adapting my quick release to the wheel was straight forward, utilizing a essentially a scaled down version of your typical wheel spacer. The male side of the quick release is welded to .75" .120 wall tubing which I hammered over the stock steering shaft splines and then welded as well. The column mount idea I stole from my professors 25.1 chassis. It exceeds the SFI requirements being a collapsible column.
Extending the u-joint shaft was as easy as it was the last time I did it 
It was raining or else I would have pulled it out and got better pictures of it together.
#368
#369
Got my seat belts last week and spent the majority of the week deciphering various rule books to ge the safest possible mounts. Having to mount everything in double shear effectively double the amount of tabs that needed cut, which was rather tedious. I had to add a cross tube between the seat rails for a proper crotch strap, seeing how I don't have a floor.
Im very happy I went with the platinum over the black.
Getting pretty consistent out of position as well.
Because I can't take it out without getting a full body spread.
Im very happy I went with the platinum over the black.
Getting pretty consistent out of position as well.
Because I can't take it out without getting a full body spread.
#370
I may or may not have cut the rest of the frame rails and floor out. I boxed the remaining rail ends to the rocker, a-pillar boxes, and the fire wall. Just about ready to put a floor back in.
#372
#373
On The Tree
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great to see your progress!
Looks heavy? Looks a tad lighter than stock to me with all that metal gone and replaced with tube... love your work and it's inspiring especially for a home build. But what you can get away with stateside compared to here is crazy.... cut big holes in firewall, tube whatever, crumple zones cut out etc... lucky buggers!
Doesn't look like you have but please please don't skimp on the seat + harness mount construction.. if something went wrong you don't want to be all 'I wish I'd done that x way'...
Keep it up! I can't wait to see this on a YT video and drink the tears of the detractors in the comment section.
Looks heavy? Looks a tad lighter than stock to me with all that metal gone and replaced with tube... love your work and it's inspiring especially for a home build. But what you can get away with stateside compared to here is crazy.... cut big holes in firewall, tube whatever, crumple zones cut out etc... lucky buggers!
Doesn't look like you have but please please don't skimp on the seat + harness mount construction.. if something went wrong you don't want to be all 'I wish I'd done that x way'...
Keep it up! I can't wait to see this on a YT video and drink the tears of the detractors in the comment section.
#374
Great to see your progress!
Looks heavy? Looks a tad lighter than stock to me with all that metal gone and replaced with tube... love your work and it's inspiring especially for a home build. But what you can get away with stateside compared to here is crazy.... cut big holes in firewall, tube whatever, crumple zones cut out etc... lucky buggers!
Doesn't look like you have but please please don't skimp on the seat + harness mount construction.. if something went wrong you don't want to be all 'I wish I'd done that x way'...
Keep it up! I can't wait to see this on a YT video and drink the tears of the detractors in the comment section.
Looks heavy? Looks a tad lighter than stock to me with all that metal gone and replaced with tube... love your work and it's inspiring especially for a home build. But what you can get away with stateside compared to here is crazy.... cut big holes in firewall, tube whatever, crumple zones cut out etc... lucky buggers!
Doesn't look like you have but please please don't skimp on the seat + harness mount construction.. if something went wrong you don't want to be all 'I wish I'd done that x way'...
Keep it up! I can't wait to see this on a YT video and drink the tears of the detractors in the comment section.
There's plenty of legal hoops to jump through for me to drive this on the street but its definitely possible. If New Zealand laws are anywhere in the realm of Australia's I for sure couldn't get away with this.
The seats are mounted straight to the floor's tube construction which is tied into four corners of the cage. The seat belt brackets are all double shear .125 plate with half inch bolts per RJS/SFIs instructions.
Thank you for the kind words! Detractors is an understatement when I roll up to the car's first Subaru oriented meet.
#375
Jay
#376
There will be a few. Just don't be all up in there revving the engine and doing burnouts pissing people off and I bet most of the people will think it's cool. I consider myself a car guy, and can appreciate the work on any car. I do like some more than others, tho. lol
Jay
Jay
#377
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
Eff all that...you get the car up and running, LIGHT EM UP, n drive it like ya stole it. Im hoping thats what she was built for! Lol, im tired of seeing all these high end street cars parked in parking lots n driveways these days..I aint seen 1 single new z06 yet in the passing lane..all in right lane doing 55mph in 65mph zone...
Caught myself passing a ferrari 458 n mclaren car in same day on the garden state parkway last week...shooda been in Cadillacs instead. Lol, rant off
P.s. work looks great as usual
Caught myself passing a ferrari 458 n mclaren car in same day on the garden state parkway last week...shooda been in Cadillacs instead. Lol, rant off
P.s. work looks great as usual
#378
Eff all that...you get the car up and running, LIGHT EM UP, n drive it like ya stole it. Im hoping thats what she was built for! Lol, im tired of seeing all these high end street cars parked in parking lots n driveways these days..I aint seen 1 single new z06 yet in the passing lane..all in right lane doing 55mph in 65mph zone...
Caught myself passing a ferrari 458 n mclaren car in same day on the garden state parkway last week...shooda been in Cadillacs instead. Lol, rant off
P.s. work looks great as usual
Caught myself passing a ferrari 458 n mclaren car in same day on the garden state parkway last week...shooda been in Cadillacs instead. Lol, rant off
P.s. work looks great as usual
Setting the engine low in the chassis had some draw back. The steering rack had to be lowered, increasing tie rod angle to an undesirable degree. This called for lowered steering provision on the knuckle.
Now I have about 3 inches of "bumpsteer adjustment" dependent on the cars final ride height. The 5/8 heims should give good steering feed back as well.
Close ups
Im going to clean up the knuckles and press the hubs back in during class monday. Once I determine the thread pitch of the inner tie rods I can thread my outer tie rod tubes.