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Rowdy burnouts and loud noises: The LSX/Subaru swap project

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Old 02-05-2017, 11:41 AM
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are you just going to add a spacer to the bolt above/below the tie rod end to secure it in the lower/appropriate position?
Old 02-05-2017, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by doktor b
are you just going to add a spacer to the bolt above/below the tie rod end to secure it in the lower/appropriate position?
Yessir, I've got some 5/8 ID tubing that I can cut to length. I don't know where the final ride height of the car will be, so I can't accurately decide on the spacer height.
Old 02-05-2017, 01:33 PM
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How do you like that eastwood tig?
Old 02-05-2017, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by merim123
How do you like that eastwood tig?
It works stellar. I haven't had any issues with it thus far. If I was doing production based work I'd definitely want something that's water-cooled but other than that I can't complain.
Old 02-09-2017, 06:07 PM
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Welded up my outer tie rods today. Bumpsteer issue is checked off the list. Time to do a floor.





Old 02-09-2017, 08:08 PM
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Looks good.
Old 02-10-2017, 11:29 AM
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I didn't realize you were doing all of this work with an Eastwood TIG. That is good to know that you have had a good experience with it. Keep up the good work!
Old 02-11-2017, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a
I didn't realize you were doing all of this work with an Eastwood TIG. That is good to know that you have had a good experience with it. Keep up the good work!
Thanks man! I've never had issues from either of our Eastwood welders. The mini-mig works just as good as the TIG.
Old 02-11-2017, 09:35 AM
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I have an Eastwood TIG 200 and it has been great.

Andrew
Old 02-13-2017, 02:22 PM
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angle of those tie rods are still way too much, they should be completely parallel with the lower control arms to minimize bump steer.
Old 02-19-2017, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by User-c3
angle of those tie rods are still way too much, they should be completely parallel with the lower control arms to minimize bump steer.
Yes that would indeed be the ideal situation. The one problem is the lower I dropped the knuckle the closer it gets to the LCA. This was as low as I could go without clearancing the LCA to allow the knuckle to make a full sweep. My LCAs are caster adding from a special edition STI so they're set farther forward causing this issue.

So I assembled the long block so it could be sold. I figured it would gather alot more attention on a forsale ad as a swapped Subaru rather than just another LS (hahahaha).





I also sold the Audi. With graduation coming closer and closer I needed to downsize.



Now back to the elephant in the room, my new floor pans. As of right now the plan is to pretty much copy a factory style floor plan replacement. Pretty much cut the shape of the hole and then add an inch to all sides so I can fold it up and create one inch lip all the way around the pan. I think I'm going to stich weld the pan in and then seam seal around it. The part that is giving me trouble is the sealing part. I'm not super familiar with sealing up something like this from future corrosion along with it being waterproof. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
Old 03-02-2017, 05:35 PM
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Unfortunately class and job hunting has been keeping me rather busy so I don't get to work on it as much as I'd like but I got the drivers floor pan in today. After some contemplation I decided that there wasn't any need to bead roll the pan. It's only there to provide support for my heels and keep debris out of the vehicle and is no longer a structural point of the car.

I started with a rough chip board template.



Transfered it to steel.



It required a fair amount of clamping, a floor jack, scissor jack, and persuasive amount of hammering to fit it as one piece.



It's stitch welded every couple inches and supports the entire weight of the car.







The passenger side should go a bit smoother now that I've worked out the kinks.
Old 03-04-2017, 09:16 AM
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If you want to work in VT, you should look up a place in South Burlington called The Auto Shoppe.

Way to keep a this project. Love driveway/garage builds.
Old 03-04-2017, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dan96z71
If you want to work in VT, you should look up a place in South Burlington called The Auto Shoppe.

Way to keep a this project. Love driveway/garage builds.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll inquire and see if they're hiring.
Old 03-04-2017, 08:22 PM
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Just curious, how much money have you spent in the process of everything? I'm looking to begin the same thing on a forester.
Old 03-06-2017, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LSforester
Just curious, how much money have you spent in the process of everything? I'm looking to begin the same thing on a forester.
I'm currently sitting somewhere between 2500-3000 including my welder, bender, dies, notcher, and consumables. The engine, fuel/turbo system, and drivetrain are going to be a pretty penny though.
Old 03-14-2017, 05:32 PM
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Finally done with my capstone class so I got some time to work on my car.

I flipped the template over and viola it evolved into a floor pan.





Once it warms up I can seal them up and paint them. Also, I graduate school in a mere 7 weeks so I'm on the hunt for a job. As most of you have realized I'd like to stay within the performance/fabrication industry so if you guys here of anything hiring don't hesitate to let me know!
Old 03-14-2017, 06:45 PM
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I let my buddy know you might be calling him. He is busier than a one legged man in an *** kicking contest. They are building an LS3 - 525 horse / T56 Magnum iroc with a roadstershop chassis in it this week.
Old 03-14-2017, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dan96z71
I let my buddy know you might be calling him. He is busier than a one legged man in an *** kicking contest. They are building an LS3 - 525 horse / T56 Magnum iroc with a roadstershop chassis in it this week.
That sounds right up my alley and by looks, east coast too! PM his details and I'll give him a ring/email.
Old 03-14-2017, 07:02 PM
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http://www.theautoshoppevt.com/


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