Teddy-2000RS

I was taught that when you have an overhang from the different size materials you don't put a bevel. A tubular sleeve is also going to be welded over the two halves, they weren't pictured because I wanted to insure my lengths were correct before finalizing the axles.

AussieDan

Fair enough, with the tube it should be plenty strong. I would still have beveled it, but I'm no expert!

Teddy-2000RS

My thinking behind not beveling it would be that it would require two passes to fully weld the axle halves. Since they're solid bar rather than a tube, they can easily be overheated. That discouraged me from wanting to run two passes and potentially making them brittle and prone to shearing.

jfg455

iTrader: (5)

It will snap right at the weld point at the end of the tube sleeve due to the weld taking the temper out of the metal. That's assuming you get traction which I don't think will be an issue...

Teddy-2000RS

Kind of a disappointing weekend car wise. I was unable to obtain an argon cylinder, so my hopes of mounting my pedals were dashed. I did get their position sorted though. I used my dad's car as a reference for pedal height and then mirrored it to my own. Hopefully I'll be able to get a bottle this week and then make some actual progress.

I also scooped a WRX gas pedal from the lovely 603 performance crew.



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Teddy-2000RS

My clutch/brake box showed up today as well as my masters. After sitting in another RS with a floor mounted OBP box I made the decision to go hanging. Floor mounted pedals were not comfortable to actuate by any means.

I went with the Southwest Speed billet set up with the "gripper" pedals. They use Wilwood internals and a there own high capacity housing so rebuilds are cheap and as easy as a summit order. Looking for a DBC gas pedal from any Subaru and then I'll mount everything.



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Teddy-2000RS

Pedal box is all mounted up. I built mounts off of the A pillar down bar and the steering column spar. I was able to position them so as I don't need to build a foot rest to actuate them comfortably. I just have to adjust the brake pedal height back some and they'll be perfect.

The majority of the welding had to be done lefty, which is my non dominant hand which was a good way to jump back into out of position welding.



They're definitely not positioned in the stock location



Hopefully getting the gas pedal positioned tomorrow.

Teddy-2000RS

My intital gas pedal placement was axed. It didn't feel right being off the to the side so I opted for a more traditional placement.

I started with some .250 plate and a template



Which turned into this. I mounted it to the column purely for the fact that it lined up good with the brake and clutch pedal.



The bolts were donated from my green coupe's front seat bolts. A small adjustment to the brake pedal and it will be perfect.





Now that I'm back in the groove of things my welds are getting more and more consistent.





Some manually pulsed goodness

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Very impressive! Is that still with the Eastwood Tig??

Teddy-2000RS

Yessir. I would choose my Eastwood over the big lincoln I have at work in a heart beat.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Are you going to switch those cylinders out to a remote reservoir set up?

brawls43

How does it feel sitting in it? The gas pedal being left of the steering column seems like it'd give you a weird body position.

Teddy-2000RS

One as planning on keeping them the way they are. They're high capacity reservoirs. Would you recommend something else?


The column is actually at an angle compared to the car when sitting down, everything lines up to the drivers seat.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

I change brake fluid every year on my steet cars -- every race weekend when I was racing. I'd want remote mounted reservoirs under the hood where 1) if there's a problem/leak with the reservoir I don't end up with brake fluid in the interior of the car where pedals and feet need traction; 2) where I can easily do the flush/fill procedure. Looks like those are going to be up under the dash - what appears to me to be about the worst possible location for ongoing maintenance. And if this is going to be the track rat I think it is --- I'd want much easier access to the reservoirs.

Just me though...

Romulus22

I had no intention of changing the fluid that often but for the pure fact of checking it would've been a pain. I bought a cheap reservoir, VW Corrado I believe. Used some brake fluid compatibile hose and epoxied in a couple fittings to the reservoir lid. Has been leak free since install.

Teddy-2000RS

I won't be running a lower dash so the masters/reservoirs are exposed. If I have heat related fluid issues I'll weld some an fittings onto the reservoirs and remote them to another lovation.

Teddy-2000RS

Small update, but it's forward progress. I've been waiting for the labor day sale to order my MIG. That will hopefully arrive by next weekend. I'll be able to do my tube front and tunnel once that arrives. I'm trying to knock out all the major fab work before refreshing my engine.

My transmission came equipped with an aftermarket short throw shifter that I have yet to identify so that was left was to make the shift lever itself. All of the aftermarket shifters for the
T56 are insanely tall for my seating position, coming in at 10+ inches. Logically I decided to make one. I sandwiched 2 pieces of .125" plate and welded the ridge.





I welded a 12x 1.25 bolt to the top to continue to use my Prodrive shift ****. The majority of the camaro shifters I found were 16x1.25.



The boot will cover the shifter but here's some detail.

Tranz Zam

Totally badass build! I'm very impressed!

Teddy-2000RS

Thanks for the kind words!

2 weekends in row with an update. Now we're making progress.

At the beginning of the week one of my co-workers donated two 2'×6' sheets of .125 thick 4xxx/5xxx (guessing on the alloy) aluminum. I accepted graciously because they are perfect for my oil pan, intake, and all sorts of other goodies.



I started with the oil pan. It sat too low for my liking, about 3 inches below the subframe and steering rack. This seemed like a recipe for disaster so I decided to alleviate this issue. I sumped the pan roughly 3 inches (it's slanted in relation to the pan rail) and then added back in the quart I removed.



It's hard to tell in the pictures but both sides have been widened, the passenger side more so, because the drivers side has the steering rack in the way. I retained the internal baffles and added one to each side of the pan so I don't lose oil around the pickup mid corner.





I also repaired a small section from when the engine fell onto the jack while I was making my subframe.





I'll be adding a drain plug and an oil return, I just held off on ordering it so I can get free shipping from summit.

Side note: This might be a dumb question but where is the dip stick housed. It looks like there might be a place for on top of the oil filter housing but my engine never came with one.

Continuing with the theme of free, I also scooped a stand up drill press. It's a 2000 and was used twice before sitting in a storage unit. I got it from an elderly guys estate sale.



On the topic of tools I also picked up a mig, although unfortunately I had to pay for this one. Eastwood makes some of the best welders I've used for a hell of a price.

Romulus22

Passenger side in the block.