Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 04:57 PM
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Default 67 Chevelle ls1 t66

I am in the process of putting a 99 ls1 into my Chevelle. So far it is in and the driveline angle is set to 3.5 degrees down and the crossmember is in. I used dougs adapter plates and eBay headers.


So now with my tail shaft angle set I need to figure out my driveshaft options I tried because I had it the f body driveshaft but it is to big in diameter and hits the floor brace. Any ideas?
I will post pics later when I get home thanks






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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 09:12 PM
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Cut the brace, make something to tie them back in together. I struggled with it for a little while, but in the end just bent up some plate steel and stitched them together.
Attached Thumbnails 67 Chevelle ls1 t66-elk471.jpg  
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 09:40 PM
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Thanks that is what I was thinking. What angle did you end up with?
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Haddixj
Thanks that is what I was thinking. What angle did you end up with?
The angle relative to the frame is irrelevant. Generally, with a LS swap, you want the engine as low as possible in the chassis and the back of the trans as high as you can get it. You may still run into driveline angle issues, but that will depend on how low the ride height is in the rear.

Andrew
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Old Sep 19, 2015 | 03:22 PM
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Subscribed.
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Old Sep 19, 2015 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Haddixj
Thanks that is what I was thinking. What angle did you end up with?
Everybody and their mother have an opinion on how to do this and no matter what you post, almost everyone will find something ignorant to say about it. lol I spent some time helping a street rod fabricator in Kansas City when I was a young guy and go by what he taught me. Worked for me so far. The worst thing in the world is driveline issues when you're trying to enjoy your newly finished build. Mine are both at 3 degrees.
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Old Sep 19, 2015 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hoss
Everybody and their mother have an opinion on how to do this and no matter what you post, almost everyone will find something ignorant to say about it. lol I spent some time helping a street rod fabricator in Kansas City when I was a young guy and go by what he taught me. Worked for me so far. The worst thing in the world is driveline issues when you're trying to enjoy your newly finished build. Mine are both at 3 degrees.
Three degree relative to what? The front and rear operating angles should be as small as possible, but not zero.

Andrew
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Old Sep 20, 2015 | 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Three degree relative to what? The front and rear operating angles should be as small as possible, but not zero.

Andrew
Why at rest, of course. "Operating angles" really doesn't mean anything.

Haddixj - see what I mean?
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Old Sep 20, 2015 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hoss
Why at rest, of course. "Operating angles" really doesn't mean anything.

Haddixj - see what I mean?
What if you are resting on a hill? Operating angles are well defined and the only thing that matters.

The front operating angle is defined as the angle between the output shaft of the transmission and the driveshaft.

The rear operating angle is defined as the angle between the pinion gear and the driveshaft.

For smooth driveline operation you want the front and rear operating angles to be equal, opposite, and as small as possible (under 3 degrees), but not zero. The rear operating angle can be different from the front angle at rest to account for pinion rise under power. The amount of difference varies based on suspension rear suspension design, bushing type, which determines the total deflexion of the pinion under power.

Andrew
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Old Sep 20, 2015 | 01:56 PM
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So far with my suspension loaded the trans is 3 down and the rear end is about 0 maybe 1/2 up. I will buy adjustable control arms if needed. Now I am going to get a driveshaft made up and start on the tunnel. I only get a few hours a week on the car so progress will not be to fast.
I am planning on going with a tech rods harness. The LS1 has a futal motorsports F13-12 cam in it and ford red top injectors. It had a 6 puck clutch that I am replacing with an Ls7 so it is a better driving car.
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Old Sep 20, 2015 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Haddixj
So far with my suspension loaded the trans is 3 down and the rear end is about 0 maybe 1/2 up. .....
This is meaningless. Are your angles relative to gravity? Are they relative to the frame?

Run a string from the center of the output shaft to the center of the pinion gear in order to get an idea of what the driveshaft angle will be. If the car is lowered in the rear, the driveshaft will most likely run uphill from the trans to the pinion.

Andrew
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Old Sep 20, 2015 | 02:37 PM
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will do
thank you
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Old Nov 27, 2015 | 05:51 PM
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Old Nov 27, 2015 | 05:58 PM
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Little bit of progress over the past few weeks although I decided to pull the body off the frame to get it powder coated. About to place my order with summit and vintage air in the next few weeks. Anything I should be thinking about or planning with the body off? My plan is to replace all the bushings with poly. I'm leaving the brakes for now until I buy new wheels. I have all 4 disc brakes from the camaro donor but need to get the brakets from kore.
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Old Nov 28, 2015 | 11:04 AM
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Project GatTagO knows what hes' talking about. I'd listen to him IMO

Nice and clean looking 67. Best of luck
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 06:34 PM
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what are your plans for the firewall? if you are smoothing it out you may want to mock up the evaporator and make some provisions to mount it . I ended up hanging mine from the cowl cause my firewall was already finished and painted before I ordered the vintage air , if you are using the blockoff plate I dont think you need to worry then . where do you plan on mounting the ecm? JOHN
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 07:23 PM
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I have been looking into smoothing the firewall and I will order my vintage air kit tomorrow so I can mock everything up. I am thinking of buying the abc frame boxing plates and their firewall smoothing kit as I can imagine it will save a ton of work. Ok he vintage air kit the Ac and heater hoses exit near the inner fender well correct? As far as the ecm I am not to sure yet. I might do it in the front inner fender on the drivers side or in the car. Either way the relays and fuses will have to mount in the engine compartment so I will probably leave everything in the engine compartment. Just placed my order with summit for most of everything except just forgot about the body bushings and maybe the f body clutch master bracket for the brake booster.
So far though I am going ls7 clutch kit, hp tuners pro, nylon fuel hose with the vette filter.
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 08:50 PM
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In my case I ordered the vintage air piece by piece , not sure how the kit comes but the evaporator is probably the same . I ran all my lines through the cowl , a bit of a pain but they are mostly hidden . If you look through my thread there are pics . my ecm is in the interior , I wanted to keep the engine comp. as clean as possible .JOHN
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 09:12 PM
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great thread - I am doing the same build. keep up the good work!!
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Old Feb 15, 2016 | 03:17 PM
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ABC performance smoothing panel





All welded up, I TIG'd the entire perimeter after I welded the middle. Plan is to Mock everything up, A/C, wiring harness then pull it back off and paint it body color.





stripped the factory sound insulation using brake clean and a 3" putty knife. I tried acetone it didn't work as well.





Everything coated in rust bullet





same





found an old picture of when I had it in high school around 98
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