SS 1st Gen F-body Headers (on the cheap)
#1
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I just finished using these headers: http://www.speed-engineering.com/sho...e-version.html on my 1969 firebird 5.3 swap. Yes I know they are intended for a 98-02 fbody, but that rear tube on the drivers side was perfect to clear my mechanical clutch linkage (Muncie swap).
The passenger side fit perfectly, absolutely no trouble here, you can just slide it right in, even after the engine is in.
The driver's side is where the mods come in. My engine is set back 1", to replicate the stock location of the Muncie and re-use the driveshaft. The two rear tubes don't need to be modded, only the front ones. Even a cheap mig welder and some .030 flux core wire will work here. The front two tubes need to be cut at the flange. Cut a section out here so that the tubes can be pushed in closer to the flange and re-welded in order to clear the steering box. After this, they can be installed, but you will most likely have to pull the engine up and feed them in through the bottom. I already had the engine out so I just lowered the engine onto them and bolted them up with the engine 3/4 of the way in.
You will also have to change some of the geometry of the driver's side front tube. It comes down too soon and interferes with the steering linkage. A shallower elbow and transition will fix this.
I know it seems like a lot of work just to save $300 - $400, but if you're patient and have decent mig skills it's a walk in the park. I finished mine in a couple of days, and I had the polarity on my mig backwards (there goes my credibility on this site lol) so imagine how easy it will be for you!
Any questions go ahead and ask. Thanks for reading.
The passenger side fit perfectly, absolutely no trouble here, you can just slide it right in, even after the engine is in.
The driver's side is where the mods come in. My engine is set back 1", to replicate the stock location of the Muncie and re-use the driveshaft. The two rear tubes don't need to be modded, only the front ones. Even a cheap mig welder and some .030 flux core wire will work here. The front two tubes need to be cut at the flange. Cut a section out here so that the tubes can be pushed in closer to the flange and re-welded in order to clear the steering box. After this, they can be installed, but you will most likely have to pull the engine up and feed them in through the bottom. I already had the engine out so I just lowered the engine onto them and bolted them up with the engine 3/4 of the way in.
You will also have to change some of the geometry of the driver's side front tube. It comes down too soon and interferes with the steering linkage. A shallower elbow and transition will fix this.
I know it seems like a lot of work just to save $300 - $400, but if you're patient and have decent mig skills it's a walk in the park. I finished mine in a couple of days, and I had the polarity on my mig backwards (there goes my credibility on this site lol) so imagine how easy it will be for you!
Any questions go ahead and ask. Thanks for reading.
#2
TECH Regular
iTrader: (12)
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Why do all of that when they have a 1st gen set of swap headers for the same price?
http://www.speed-engineering.com/ls-...6-engines.html
Edit: I see they only have 1 7/8" primaries for 1st gens and both 1 3/4" and 1 7/8" for 4th gen. I'm planning to put their 1st gen set in my 69 Firebird but it's got a 6.0.
http://www.speed-engineering.com/ls-...6-engines.html
Edit: I see they only have 1 7/8" primaries for 1st gens and both 1 3/4" and 1 7/8" for 4th gen. I'm planning to put their 1st gen set in my 69 Firebird but it's got a 6.0.
#3
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Why do all of that when they have a 1st gen set of swap headers for the same price?
www.speed-engineering.com/ls-conversions-swaps/exhaust/ls-conversions-swap-headers/camaro-longtube-headers-ls-conversion-swap-1967-69-ls1-ls2-ls3-ls6-engines.html
Edit: I see they only have 1 7/8" primaries for 1st gens and both 1 3/4" and 1 7/8" for 4th gen. I'm planning to put their 1st gen set in my 69 Firebird but it's got a 6.0.
www.speed-engineering.com/ls-conversions-swaps/exhaust/ls-conversions-swap-headers/camaro-longtube-headers-ls-conversion-swap-1967-69-ls1-ls2-ls3-ls6-engines.html
Edit: I see they only have 1 7/8" primaries for 1st gens and both 1 3/4" and 1 7/8" for 4th gen. I'm planning to put their 1st gen set in my 69 Firebird but it's got a 6.0.
#6
#7
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just finished using these headers: http://www.speed-engineering.com/sho...e-version.html on my 1969 firebird 5.3 swap. Yes I know they are intended for a 98-02 fbody, but that rear tube on the drivers side was perfect to clear my mechanical clutch linkage (Muncie swap).
The passenger side fit perfectly, absolutely no trouble here, you can just slide it right in, even after the engine is in.
The driver's side is where the mods come in. My engine is set back 1", to replicate the stock location of the Muncie and re-use the driveshaft. The two rear tubes don't need to be modded, only the front ones. Even a cheap mig welder and some .030 flux core wire will work here. The front two tubes need to be cut at the flange. Cut a section out here so that the tubes can be pushed in closer to the flange and re-welded in order to clear the steering box. After this, they can be installed, but you will most likely have to pull the engine up and feed them in through the bottom. I already had the engine out so I just lowered the engine onto them and bolted them up with the engine 3/4 of the way in.
You will also have to change some of the geometry of the driver's side front tube. It comes down too soon and interferes with the steering linkage. A shallower elbow and transition will fix this.
I know it seems like a lot of work just to save $300 - $400, but if you're patient and have decent mig skills it's a walk in the park. I finished mine in a couple of days, and I had the polarity on my mig backwards (there goes my credibility on this site lol) so imagine how easy it will be for you!
Any questions go ahead and ask. Thanks for reading.
The passenger side fit perfectly, absolutely no trouble here, you can just slide it right in, even after the engine is in.
The driver's side is where the mods come in. My engine is set back 1", to replicate the stock location of the Muncie and re-use the driveshaft. The two rear tubes don't need to be modded, only the front ones. Even a cheap mig welder and some .030 flux core wire will work here. The front two tubes need to be cut at the flange. Cut a section out here so that the tubes can be pushed in closer to the flange and re-welded in order to clear the steering box. After this, they can be installed, but you will most likely have to pull the engine up and feed them in through the bottom. I already had the engine out so I just lowered the engine onto them and bolted them up with the engine 3/4 of the way in.
You will also have to change some of the geometry of the driver's side front tube. It comes down too soon and interferes with the steering linkage. A shallower elbow and transition will fix this.
I know it seems like a lot of work just to save $300 - $400, but if you're patient and have decent mig skills it's a walk in the park. I finished mine in a couple of days, and I had the polarity on my mig backwards (there goes my credibility on this site lol) so imagine how easy it will be for you!
Any questions go ahead and ask. Thanks for reading.
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#8
#9
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Do you have a better picture of the mechanical linkage?
I'm working on a similar setup, and still working through setback, etc.
What did you use for the pivot ball for the z-bar?
Thanks!
Richard
I'm working on a similar setup, and still working through setback, etc.
What did you use for the pivot ball for the z-bar?
Thanks!
Richard
#10
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sorry, It's a bit tight to get a pic of the linkage. I used the same pivot ball that the linkage was on originally, but with the 621 bellhousing, it was too far back on my car. I made an adapter plate out of 1/4" steel. It moves the pivot ball forward 1.5" and up .375" IIRC. It took some trial and error to get it right, it has trouble even if it's a little bit off.
#12
On The Tree
iTrader: (108)
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The latest hooker LS swap parts for first gen are different and everything fits nicely. Its not cheap, but you dont have to hack into anything- mounts/headers/oil pan/trans x-member etc. Lowers the engine and provides correct driveline angle for smooth running at highway speeds. For $229 its well worth risking those speedway headers. Most swap headers instructions refer to the required engine plates that work with the header. I did not realize these were so cheap.
#13
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I used these headers in my 1969 firebird with stock subframe and steering box and they fit great , only modification was to steering column neutral switch linkage bracket ( i just removed it since in using a different shifter with neutral switch ) trans-dapt mounts and Holley pan 510-302-2 clears all steering linkage ,
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sorry, It's a bit tight to get a pic of the linkage. I used the same pivot ball that the linkage was on originally, but with the 621 bellhousing, it was too far back on my car. I made an adapter plate out of 1/4" steel. It moves the pivot ball forward 1.5" and up .375" IIRC. It took some trial and error to get it right, it has trouble even if it's a little bit off.
Imdoing a 1st gen swap using the hooker swap kit minus their headers.
#16
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With the 1" setback plates that keep the transmission in the stock location, my passenger side head has approximately 3/8" - 1/2" from the firewall. I can get a more accurate number for you when I'm home in a couple weeks.