jayyk31

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I wanted to start a build thread here as I have one on other s10 forums and I just went through 25 mins of typing just to loose everything I wrote when I got a phone call!!! Grrrrr! Obviously I'm posting this on my phone! Well I'm gonna make it short & sweet with a bunch of pics & I hope to update this as much as possible. Its gonna b a street truck, driven occasionally in good weather , garage kept. Was supposed to ONLY be an engine build & swap but turned into a frame off restoration due to my jumping the gun & buying a truck with rust issues! Lol! Please I welcome all help, info, & criticism as this is a hobby for me & it is not my day job! I enjoy building this truck, especially the engine work! I want to compromise between a drag set up & a twisties set up if i can. Here's the info as best I can provide...
Truck:
- 1989 2wd extended cab s10 frame
- 1992 4wd extended cab Sonoma body. Due to rot/rust I replaced ; both cab corners, cab corner extensions, both rockers, both inside inner rockers, all 6 cab supports, driver side floor pan, & a bunch of other metal! A **** ton of work!
- Keeping ac, power steering, but going with a 4 wheel disc manual brake set up
- 2002 4wd 8.6 Blazer rear (upgrade to a Tru- trac, stronger axles, & prob a 3.90 gearing), might have it shortened & axle tubes welded up
- stock 2 piece driveshaft GONE; gonna go with a 1 piece DS instead. Still have to do some metal work on the cab for it to clear.
- I changed the frame up a bit & reinforced it some, then had it powder coated. Also notched the k- member for the oil pan clearance.
- Keeping rear leaf suspension. Going with sliders, rubber front spring eye bushings, and either a belltech drop leafs or a stock 3 pack. Also undecided on rear shock location but Def gonna go with a good DA shock. Cal- trac traction bars are a definite must!
- front suspension will be tubular uppers & lowers, tall ball joints, DJM drop spindles & coil overs.

more in the next post....

jayyk31

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Continued...


-battery will b relocated to bed as well as the fuel cell.
- interior will stay mostly stock with some changes made. I'm loosing the rear jump seats and stuff like that.
- Paint & body work will b last
- gonna go with a 2" cowl hood if I can squeeze the fast LSXRT intake under that! Lol!

Engine & Trans:
- '03 lq4 block, bored .030 over with a 4" forged crank.
- wiseco -3 cc forged floating pistons going for 11.6:1 compression
- Lunati Voodoo 4" crank (crank rigger wheel tig welded to avoid spinning)
- Callies forged h beam 6.125 rods
- block machining & rotating assembly balanced by Westchester Crank
- Mamo top end: his 235cc heads, custom spec'd cam, his valvetrain, and the lifters he recommends. He's an awesome guy to deal with & Def excited to get this thing running!
- Stainlessworks 1 7/8'ths long tubes
- Fast LSXRT intake ported bt Tony
- most likely going with a 0411 pcm from a 6 speed f- body.
- tuned by me with hp tuners

- close ratio t56 magnum
- clutch & flywheel is undecided at this point


Continue on next post...

jayyk31

iTrader: (2)

- King main & rod bearings
-all ARP hardware

Here's some pics...

jayyk31

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And forgot, I'm using an 8.6 rear out of an '02 4wd blazer. Gonna go with 3.90 gears most likely, stronger axles, and have the tubes welded. Might have it narrow a bit too, undecided on that. More pics...

jayyk31

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jayyk31

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I have a bunch more pics, I just have to upload them to photobucket. Did I mention that I hate photobucket! I will post them up as soon as they upload.

jayyk31

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This truck is the '89 which I realized had a rotted floor.


Then I found this yellow 4wd Sonoma with a solid floor but other rotted ****, rotted **** I can handle. So I decided to swap this cab onto the '89 frame. Damn I wish I was capable of making a new floor cause I would have kept the '89 cab. Everything else was in great shape except the floor.


Anyway that was the beginning, about 6 months ago. Now I know how to weld and fabricate metal! Lol!

10droped

iTrader: (1)

What oil pan you got there?

jayyk31

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That's the Autocraft oil pan... It's for a 1st gen Camaro but I knew I was notching the crossmember so I went with it. It's got good baffling in it & I read some good stuff about it...
http://www.autokraft.org/products/

static low 92

iTrader: (2)

That frame look fantastic. Good job.

I want to room at some point to do a frame off build and do a nice stiff chassis.... Need a bigger garage lol

jayyk31

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Thanks alot man, I appreciate the compliments!!! Dude it was a lot of work & thankfully I have a great boss who let's me use his shop for my build. He's into cars & stuff. He's got a '08 427 Rouche Mustang with a tvs & the works! So we both work on our vehicles! But I tell ya, the frame is actually a bunch stiffer than stock. And I didn't do too much but remove the factory crossmembers & add some steel tubing & I boxed in some sections!

jayyk31

iTrader: (2)

So I got everything back from the machine shop last Fri. Everything came out real good & looks awesome. They did a damn good job & very timely I must say!

1 little thing I had them do was throw a few tack welds on the reluctor ring for safe measure. Hopefully I will never have to worry about that thing moving on me in the future.

1st thing I did was scrub the hell out of the block & crank with hot soapy (dawn dish detergent) water and rinse it it out real good. I used a bunch of different sized gun cleaning brushes, nylon brushes, etc... Cleaned it real good then blow dryed it with shop air & loaded it up with wd-40 for rust prevention.
I then painted the block "cast iron grey".
I installed all the various plugs, trans dowel pins, & head dowels.
Last night I re- mic'd the crank & measures the mains for oil clearance.
Mains were: #1 .0016
#2 .0016
#3 .0018
#4 .0016
#5 .0013
This was with the King XP standard bearings. I'm ordering the standard "X" bearings today which give me .001 MORE oil clearance. Not sure how I'm gonna get the correct clearance on the #5 main, as u see its the tightest of them all.
- anybody have any suggestions on how to do that I'm all ears, thanks!

The crank pins were all spot on from 2.5590- 2.5589
Next up is the rods. I have to order a "rod bolt stretch guage" so as soon as I do I will get them all measured up & assemble the pistons & so forth. Any way here's some pics...

jayyk31

iTrader: (2)

Got the "x" .001 more clearance main bearings in & measured them up. Came up with .0021- .0023. Not sure if I'm gonna run that as I would like to be up above .0025- .0028 if possible.

Measured up the rod clearance & came up with .0023- .0024 with .005 stretch consistently. The rod journals on the crank mic'd @ 2.0991- 2.0992.
From what I believe I'm good on the rod clearance & will run them as is.

So next I will finish gapping the other half of the rings. And as soon as I figure out what to do with the mains clearance it's time for final assembly on the bottom end.

jayyk31

iTrader: (2)

Got my heads in from Tony today! Wow! Awesome work he does man!!! He machined the head to accept the 10mm hardware for the YT rockers too! Def really excited to get everything together now! I have to place an order with him for the rest of my valvetrain, cam, and some other stuff next. Also got my main oil clearance in the range I'm comfortable with between .0027- .0030 with the set of bearings from Federal- Mogul. Crank end play is about .004. So I installed the crank and am now gapping the rings so I can put the rods & pistons in. Here's a few pics...