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Hooker 1964-67 A-body LS swap system preview thread

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Old 06-16-2016, 07:29 PM
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I just sat down and read through this whole thing, I definitely know which way I'm going now. I can't say I'll be buying a whole system but definitely most of a system to get my swap done in my skylark.


Will the th400 and 4l80 cross members be the same with multiple patterns or will there be an adapter plate to allow the running of either trans? (I haven't purchased a trans yet and it will be on a first come first bought when I do have the money)


Looks like I'll need the forward engine mounts, oil pan, and trans cross member for sure, and possibly the accessory drives unless I run the truck set I have laying around.


Can't wait to start buying parts.


Thanks Todd
Old 06-16-2016, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 67Lark
I just sat down and read through this whole thing, I definitely know which way I'm going now. I can't say I'll be buying a whole system but definitely most of a system to get my swap done in my skylark.


Will the th400 and 4l80 cross members be the same with multiple patterns or will there be an adapter plate to allow the running of either trans? (I haven't purchased a trans yet and it will be on a first come first bought when I do have the money)


Looks like I'll need the forward engine mounts, oil pan, and trans cross member for sure, and possibly the accessory drives unless I run the truck set I have laying around.


Can't wait to start buying parts.


Thanks Todd
Glad to have you onboard 67Lark. The crossmember works for all transmissions covered in the application through the bi-level configuration of the center section...a 4L80 would be installed using the holes in the upper surface of the beam and a TH400 would be installed on the lower cantilever shelf using an available riser block between the crossmember and the trans mount.
Old 06-20-2016, 10:33 AM
  #183  
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I've attached this diagram depicting the effects of engine placement on driveline/U-joint angles for you guys using 4L80/4L85 transmissions in your A-body swaps. This should help you visualize, before you buy any parts, how using forward-bias engine mounting brackets allows you to achieve far better U-joint working angles than using typical 1"set-back engine brackets, unless you are willing to cut/rebuild the choke point in the tunnel of all 64-72 A-bodies just behind the transmission well. The overall effect is best observed by training your eyes on the bottom surfaces of the transmission pans of both positions depicted.
Old 06-20-2016, 10:41 AM
  #184  
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Those of us with cars lowered 2" still have issues with shaft angles. I have had a vibration since I got the car and finally realized it was from being lowered.


Do you have any visuals of the stock engine and trans locations in a comparable picture?
Old 06-20-2016, 10:49 AM
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Spot on Todd. Those diagrams are perfect.

I too have the same issue when lowering Cameron. The lower it gets the worse the angles are. I have thought a few times about reworking the floor.
Old 06-20-2016, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 67Lark
Those of us with cars lowered 2" still have issues with shaft angles. I have had a vibration since I got the car and finally realized it was from being lowered.


Do you have any visuals of the stock engine and trans locations in a comparable picture?
That's a good point that deserves further clarification Cameron. The information I provided applies to cars that have been lowered no more than 1" in the rear and the minimum degree of U-joint operation you'll be able to achieve will be dependent on the pinion height of the rearend you are using.
For someone in your situation, a Ford 9" rearend would provide you the best possible opportunity to achieve minimum angles without having to cut your tunnel open due to the pinion height of the Ford 9" being .75" lower than that of a GM 12-bolt rearend.

If you are running 2" of suspension drop in the rear of your A-body, and a GM 10-bolt or 12-bolt rearend, you will absolutely need to cut/rebuild your tunnel to achieve optimized U-joint operating angles
Old 06-20-2016, 11:29 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
....

If you are running 2" of suspension drop in the rear of your A-body, and a GM 10-bolt or 12-bolt rearend, you will absolutely need to cut/rebuild your tunnel to achieve optimized U-joint operating angles
Or use a driveshaft that uses a modern CV joint in the front, like I've done with my GTO.

Andrew
Old 06-20-2016, 11:48 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Or use a driveshaft that uses a modern CV joint in the front, like I've done with my GTO.

Andrew
That's likely what I'll end up doing but I'll have to wait and see what I do for a trans and rear before that comes along.
Old 06-20-2016, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Or use a driveshaft that uses a modern CV joint in the front, like I've done with my GTO.

Andrew
Yes Andrew, that is another option for someone to consider. My aversion to going that route is the cost involved and lower height of the transmission pan and header collectors that would be present under the car. I would prefer to reshape the tunnel in such instances as my labor is free and doing so would raise the trans pan and header collectors up higher off of the ground.
Old 06-20-2016, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Or use a driveshaft that uses a modern CV joint in the front, like I've done with my GTO.

Andrew
Tell them how much your driveshaft cost Andrew.
Old 06-20-2016, 12:28 PM
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I just raised the floor. I wanted my motor to sit back so that I would have enough room for a decent cold air intake. I did not want to have to use a sharp bend to clear the radiator and fans.

With those running a carb type intake that is not an issue. For those of us running a stock style intake with the front mounted throttle body it can be.
Old 06-20-2016, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
Tell them how much your driveshaft cost Andrew.
CV front and UJoint rear aluminum shaft is $950 plus shipping. Carbon fiber is a couple hundred more and double CV is more yet. My car is lowered about 2" from factory and I have the 5 speed in the tunnel pretty high. I had vibration problems with the 5 speed and 461. The LS made the angles worse even though my trans is tight to the floors. I have the aluminum version and it flat out works. A good 3.5" aluminum shaft high speed balanced starts at $500. For $450 more you have a real solution without guessing if the standard shaft is going to work.
Old 06-20-2016, 12:52 PM
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After having already decided I want the forward mounts I came to the realization that they may not work. When using the forward mounts would there be enough room to set up a front mount turbo in one of these a-bodies or does that 1.25" take up too much valuable real estate?
Old 06-20-2016, 12:59 PM
  #194  
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It will be each individuals choice to make based on the desired end characteristics they want their LS swapped car to possess. My intention of posting the information was to just make a visual representation of the issue available so those using a 4L80/4L85 can better plan their swap to achieve their desired goals without throwing a bunch of parts at it and hoping things will work out. Since the new Hooker A-body swap systems include both forward-bias and rear-bias engine brackets that cover both engine positions, I don't have a horse in the race.
Old 06-26-2016, 06:01 PM
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How soon will his kit hit the market? Especially the headers and exhaust .
Old 06-26-2016, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bcars68
How soon will his kit hit the market? Especially the headers and exhaust .
The engine brackets and long-tubes will become available first...I'm going to guess and say 30 days on those. The exhaust systems will take more time to become available as there is quite a bit of fixturing to be built prior to the first production run. That amount of work should represent a timeframe of about 60 days for the exhaust systems.
Old 06-27-2016, 02:59 PM
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Today was a big day for progress as I received the parts I've been waiting on to assemble the pre-production transmission crossmember. I loaded it into the Holley 67 Chevelle following the assembly process to validate its fitment in the car. Everything fit great, which means it will be sent forward to enable the first production run to take place. Here's a shot of it in the car...
Old 06-27-2016, 03:52 PM
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Wow, that came out nice! What did the crossmember come out weighing?
Old 06-27-2016, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by speedtigger
Wow, that came out nice! What did the crossmember come out weighing?
I'll be getting into the CAD model tomorrow for a couple of last minute tweaks, so I'll get a weight for you then and post it up.
Old 06-28-2016, 11:20 AM
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Speedtigger, the weight of the welded crossmember assembly is 21.97 lbs. and the frame adapter brackets are 6.4 lbs. each, so that comes to a total of 34.8 lbs.


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