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Thanks Todd for the quick response. If I have to shorten the drive shaft that is no problem. I will post how it worked out once the engine/trans is in the car. My main problem is I want the engine/tranny at optimal angle and if I have to raise the entire tranny hump a bit that is no problem. I do plan to possibly try a 6 speed manual in the car (if I live that long) so setting up the angles now with the T400 in the car. What angle would be optimal?
Thanks
Jarhead
The optimum engine/trans inclination angle is determined by what results in the best U-joint operating angles. That in itself is influenced by your vehicle ride height and the type of rear end you are using (rear ends have different pinion heights with the Ford 9” being the lowest.
Thanks Todd, I should have the engine in next month and we will see how it works out. On the power steering setup, too bad you guys couldn't have somehow used the much cheaper and easier to get truck PS pump. Oh well, such is life.
Jarhead
Thanks Todd, I should have the engine in next month and we will see how it works out. On the power steering setup, too bad you guys couldn't have somehow used the much cheaper and easier to get truck PS pump. Oh well, such is life.
Jarhead
Let me know if you need help checking your U-joint working angles once you get your engine in. The problem with the PS pumps is they have different means of mounting and the input shaft O.D.’s are different so you have constraints you need to work within in order to get the pulley alignment correct.
Hey Todd are the new poly motor mounts and metal cages actually for sale yet? Jegs is showing unknown shipping date from manufacture. I am ready to buy the Hooker rearward swap mounts and I need the poly mounts too. Thanks Jarhead
Hey Todd are the new poly motor mounts and metal cages actually for sale yet? Jegs is showing unknown shipping date from manufacture. I am ready to buy the Hooker rearward swap mounts and I need the poly mounts too. Thanks Jarhead
Hey jarheadl34. The Hooker poly inserts and mount cages you see on the Jeg's website are for applications that are designed for to use the old-school SB Chevy type clamshells and inserts. The inserts and clamshells you need to use for your application are based on GM 4th-gen F-body motor mounts, which look similar to the SB Chevy mounts at a quick glance, but are completely different in design. We will be releasing our own versions of those clamshells and mounts in the future, but I can't say when that will happen. Until that happens, you'll need to use parts from different sources. You can acquire the cages by getting a couple of Anchor Industries 4th-gen F-body motor mounts (part number 3064) and then you can drill the rivets out of them and install a set of aftermarket 4th-gen F-body poly inserts into them to end up with what you're looking for.
Hello Everyone,
Amazing Thread!! Thank you Toddoky for the time, dedication and effort with this thread. I have a 64 Olds F-85/Cutlass Hardtop that I will install a LS1(LM7) and a T-56 or the stock 4l60e. Hopefully I can drop the engine to get rebuild in a couple of weeks and after start on this build. I will post pics as I go hoping to help someone in the future. Toddoky, in post #226 you stated that the forward-bias brackets would be the best way to go? I plan on ordering the Hooker long tube headers as well.
Looks like a good car to start with Alex. Yes, I recommend using the Hooker Blackheart foreword-bias engine mounting brackets for any installation where a T56 or late-model automatic transmission is being used as it minimizes, or eliminates the need to modify the trans tunnel sheet metal. I also recommend that you use the Holley 302-3 oil pan to provide the best clearances between the oil pan and the engine crossmember.
Great looking F85, I have always thought that the 64-65 F85s were the best looking of all GM A bodies. But of course I have two 65 F85s so I am bias.
Jarhead
This picture shows the Hooker forward mounts using stock LS clamshell mounts and Hooker frame stands and Hooker LS swap manifolds. Alex Olds this is what yours will end up looking similar to. Note there is a lot of room between the firewall (which we slicked up) and the motor. Easy access to the tranny bellhousing bolts too. Todd really did a nice job on theses mounts. Todd I need to ask a favor. My car cannot use the Hooker transmission mount because of some added parallel frame rails being added to stiffen my chassis. If you do not mind could you measure the height of the tranny mount position in relation to the bottom edge of the crossmember (which is the same as the frame it sits on). I want to see where the Hooker crossmember puts the transmission output shaft height. Thanks a lot Todd and again thanks for designing such perfect parts.
Jarhead
A powerglide case mocked up. I have the tranny up pretty high here, probably higher than I could place a T400 case which is bigger and is what I will run in the car. Just wondering what the Hooker crossmember height would be in relation to what I can fit in there. To get optimal angle I will cut the tunnel if needed as the floors need some work anyway.
Jarhead
Your other limiting factor will be the power steering pump pulley hitting the steering box. You need to install whatever accessories you plan to run so you can get a good idea of what you are working with. Optimal driveline angles will also be effected by the final rear ride height. I suggest you nail that down first, then accessories, then you can have a better idea where to put the back of the trans. The general rule is that the lower the rear ride height, the higher the back of the transmission has to go.
06-07-2018, 11:32 AM
