analyte

iTrader: (5)

I wired in a Dakota Digital HND-2 cruise module using a BP-Automotive harness for my LQ9 conversion. It was prewired for CC.

I spoke with DD last week to verify the wiring since the instructions weren't clear, and I also found out how to make sure all was good. Afterwards, I spoke with Bill at BP to verify nothing was needed in the ECM to activate the cruise. He said it should work, but sometimes they are difficult to get to work and to call him back with any issues.

I got everything wired up today, and I checked my connections per DD:

• Brake signal wire - 0V without brake, 12V with brake
• Power wire good, unit turns on and gets 12V
• Ground good
• Set button 12V when pushed, 0V when not
• Resume button 12V when pushed, 0V when not

After checking everything I took the car for a drive, and it didn't work. I came back home and verified everything again, but I'm stumped. I will give Bill a call on Monday if I don't figure it out, but I don't want to bother him over the weekend.

Anyone have any ideas as to what I may have missed?

Thanks,
Kerry

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

You say you have the wire that is hot when brakes are applied hooke up to the TAC module, but do you have the brake wire to the PCM hooked up? It would be hot with the brakes NOT applied, I believe its pin 33. Also, you dont have LED brake lights do you? If you do you will need an artificial load on the brake circuit to make it work.

analyte

iTrader: (5)

No LED lights so no issue there.

The harness was built with four wires from the TAC for cruise. The one wire for the brake signal is what goes to the brake switch that is only 12V when brakes are applied per DD. The others tie into the HND-2 itself; on/off, set, and resume. They get power as required.

Should there be another wire, or is the wire from the harness for the brake switch what ties back into port 33? Should I pull my TAC and check it and/or something else?

Kerry

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Youre correct on the TAC wiring, just the four wires. You have a brake light switch with two sets of contacts, correct? The front two contacts are for the brake lights and the rear are for the torque converter lock up and cruise. Should be an ignition hot on one terminal and the other goes to the PCM, on C1-33 if I remember correctly, I dont have my schematics handy. The PCM needs power to that pin when the brakes are not applied to lock up the converter and also operate the cruise. What year is your engine, I can look at my schematics when I get home and let you know for sure what wire it is.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

I just realized in your sig that you are running a T56 so your harness most likley doesnt have that wire for the TCC lock up. You would need to add it. I would also add one to the clutch pedal and wire them in series so that pushing either pedal down will release the cruise. Otherwise if you push in the clutch with the cruise on it will shoot straight to the rev limiter.

analyte

iTrader: (5)

My engine is an 05.

So I'm with you on the wiring except for the last wire you mentioned that I need to add.

I don't have a TCC, but I need to add one? Correct?? Will this wire run from the hot side of the brake pedal switch to C1-33? If not there, where do I tie it in again? Or does the current brake switch wire tie into C1-33, and this new wire will need to go elsewhere.

Gotcha on the wire to the clutch pedal. I hadn't thought of that.

I appreciate you taking the time to help.

Kerry

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I'm going to assume you just have the original brake light switch still? If so, you need to replace it with a switch with two sets of contacts, one normally closed and one normally open like this one. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....id=460&jpid=10 Then on the two contacts furthest from the plunger part you would hook ignition power to one terminal and the other terminal to C1-33. On a factory application there is a clutch switch wire that goes to C1-35, but for simplicity, I would just wire another switch in series with the brake switch. So it would be ignition power to one terminal of the brake switch (rear terminal) then the other terminal rin a wire to the clutch pedal switch on one terminal, then the other terminal to C1-33. That way pushing either the brake or clutch will release the cruise. Hope that's not clear as mud......

analyte

iTrader: (5)

Actually, that makes complete sense. I didn't realize I needed to upgrade to a different brake light switch so I'll see if the local parts store has one in stock.

I also didn't realize a second switchable power wire was needed to the brake switch so that is something different as well. Stay tuned!!

Thanks,
Kerry

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Another part number for that switch is AC Delco #D850A or the oem number in the rock auto post.

analyte

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the extra part number!!

No one had it locally so I ordered one this evening. I hope to have it in hand by Tuesday at the latest.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Do you already have a switch on the clutch pedal? Not sure what year they started that but I know a 71 nova has one. Just curious what you're going to do for that if you dont. Another of those 4 prong brake switches would work, but you'd have to find a way to mount it. Easy if you have a welder I would think, but not everyone does.

analyte

iTrader: (5)

I do not have a switch currently on the 66.

I was under there and figured I'll have to weld a piece with a hole tapped similar to whats on the brake pedal. No big deal, just have to pull the pedals out to do it. I'll consider this med term for now. First I'll get it working, and then work on the clutch just to keep things simple....

analyte

iTrader: (5)

I was able to pick the new switch up tonight and just got in wired in. Is this correct?

- Brake power and signal wires to front two terminals
- Light blue wire for C1-33 to the third terminal from the button
- 15amp ignition power to the last terminal

The switch with terminal was too big to screw in like the original due to a support so I had to wiggle it in with some pressure. I tested the brake lights and all is good there. I may add a zip tie just to ensure it doesn't pop out....lol

Too dark to test drive tonight, but I'll plan on leaving a little early tomorrow evening to try it out. Hopefully this is it!!

Kerry

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

That sounds correct. As for it not screwing in, did you have nuts on both sides of the original switch? They should fit the new switch, and then you point the switch away from the bracket so the wires clear and just adjust the two nuts. The newer vehicles use a retainer type thing pressed in the hole rather than the nuts so that the switch just presses in, makes it quicker on the assembly line I guess.

analyte

iTrader: (5)

No adjustment nuts on my old or new switch. It literally just screwed in the hole, but it's possible they used to have them prior to me acquiring it.

That said, I'll swing back by the parts store and look in the help section for the nuts.

analyte

iTrader: (5)

Ok, I just took a test drive wired like above and it still doesn't work. Hmm...

At the site going to C1-33, I'm getting 5 Volts when brakes are off and 12 when on. I tried switching the IG power and C1-33 terminals, but there with no change.

Is my switch bad? Am I off somewhere else?

analyte

iTrader: (5)

OK, my unknown confusion led to a waste of time though I believe I'm now on the right track. I went back and read your first few posts, and I've gotten the lt blue tight wire mixed up with the C1-33 wire thinking they were one and the same. With that out of the way, this is what I'm thinking.

4 post brake switch

- First two terminals normal brake light switch (normally closed, but 12V when brakes are applied)
- Third terminal gets keyed power with 15amp fuse
- Fourth terminal gets the TCC brake signal wire that goes to C1-33 (normally open so 12V from the keyed power on the third terminal when brakes aren't applied)

My one question left is where again does the lt blue wire to TAC 1-6 go? Do I tie it into the normal brake light switch to get 12V when brakes are applied?

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Yes, this wire goes to the brake light circuit and is hot when the brakes are applied.

analyte

iTrader: (5)

Thanks!!

I'll get it all hooked up and take another test drive.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Get the nuts for the switch. There's a possibility you will need to adjust the switch to get it to work. Sometimes if the brake switch isn't in far enough, the brake lights will be off with the pedal released, but the other two contacts wont be closed and not allow it to work, so if it doeant work right away, try adjusting the switch in a bit.