No power to engine harness fuse panel
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I've never done a fuel injected engine swap before, so I need a little direction in my troubleshooting. I'm trying to provide as much info as possible for those that may offer feedback, excuse me if anything is overkill... I'm installing an LS2 in my 72 Cutlass. I rewired the body with AAW harness with a trunk mounted battery and remote Ford solenoid.
I'm using the Current Performance engine harness which is connected to the body harness via the pink ignition wire. I have constant power(12.5v) from the battery to the body fuse box. When the key is in the start position, I have 12.5v power at solenoid S terminal and the battery terminal to the starter. When I check the Current Performance fuse panel, I have key on power to the ignition relay only. The engine harness is grounded to the rear of the driver side cylinder head. Not sure if this matters, but I did not have and original bolt and i used a regular metric stainless one? If things were working properly, shouldn't my fuel pump kick on once the key is placed in the on/run position?
I am looking at trying to figure out what I possibly missed or where to check next. Any feedback offered is greatly appreciated.
I'm using the Current Performance engine harness which is connected to the body harness via the pink ignition wire. I have constant power(12.5v) from the battery to the body fuse box. When the key is in the start position, I have 12.5v power at solenoid S terminal and the battery terminal to the starter. When I check the Current Performance fuse panel, I have key on power to the ignition relay only. The engine harness is grounded to the rear of the driver side cylinder head. Not sure if this matters, but I did not have and original bolt and i used a regular metric stainless one? If things were working properly, shouldn't my fuel pump kick on once the key is placed in the on/run position?
I am looking at trying to figure out what I possibly missed or where to check next. Any feedback offered is greatly appreciated.
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almost impossible to troubleshoot without seeing your wiring diagrams. But, if you have power to the ignition relay, then check to see if you have a ground to the other side of the relay coil. You should have 4 wires on that relay. 1 would be the 12v switched from your pink wire, a ground on the other side of the coil. then a larger always hot wire from battery to common relay contact and then a feed from the normally open relay contact to your new fuse box.
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Your engine harness will need constant 12v power as well for the fan/fuel pump relays, otherwise the pumps will not kick on even if the relays click when you key on.
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almost impossible to troubleshoot without seeing your wiring diagrams. But, if you have power to the ignition relay, then check to see if you have a ground to the other side of the relay coil. You should have 4 wires on that relay. 1 would be the 12v switched from your pink wire, a ground on the other side of the coil. then a larger always hot wire from battery to common relay contact and then a feed from the normally open relay contact to your new fuse box.
That makes sense... Let me see where I screwed up.
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Did they provide the fuse/relay panel with the harness? The 12v power will likely go into the panel somewhere. Should be fairly easy to track it if you know where the ECU fuse or fuel pump relays are.
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CP provided everything. I just got off the phone with them. I use a remote battery with a Ford solenoid from the rear to the starter. The constant power to the harness is from the battery post on the starter. Since the battery post only gets power during cranking in need to move it to another source with constant 12v.
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Thanks guys for pointing me in the right direction. I did not have constant 12v due to the use of the remote solenoid. I moved the wire from the starter to the alternator and everything is working as designed.