67 goat

McMaster-Carr for the rubber mounts.

This is what I used specifically, but plenty of different sizes available.

67 goat

Installed my Intellitronix LED dash. P/N DP6004 in red. I really like it. I probably prefer the factory gauges, but any electronic-to-mechanical speedometer solution is expensive, and I still didn't have a tach. This was a cheaper solution that gave me working gauges and I think it looks OK in the truck.

My fuel gauge still doesn't work though (didn't work with the factory gauge either). I'm using an '87 R10 sending unit which should be the same 0-90ohm signal, so not sure what I'm missing. It's always pegged at full. Thoughts?

jfg455

iTrader: (5)

Has to be a short to ground somewhere in the circuit for the fuel gauge...

Nice work! I like using Performance Dyno. My friend Derek rents his dyno to do all his tuning as well. Great guys.

67 goat

Thanks! Yea, I think I'll trying running a separate signal wire from the sender to the gauge next.

I can't say enough about Josh and Pete. I often think how lucky I am to have them right in my own backyard.

lowchevytrucks8503

iTrader: (1)

Thank You sir!

67 goat

Haven't posted in awhile, but got the photobucket thing straightened out. I did the $29 a year plan. I thought that was worth it to get all the photos back into my 2 build threads.

Anyway, this past winter I lowered the truck 3" front and rear, new wheels and tires, chevy grill (with late-model GMC emblem), and did 4.11s in the rear. The 4.11s with the T56 are SO nice. Obviously much quicker, but highway cruising is also MUCH better. I could barely use 6th before because of the 3.42s, tall tires, and .56 6th......it was too tall. Now 75mph is around 2200 rpm.....perfect.

At the track, the Nitto 555 G2s hooked surprisingly well. The 4.11s were almost perfect. Truck felt awesome in 4th gear with the nitrous.....pulled really hard as evidenced by the 114mph trap speed. I think this baby is a bit of a sleeper.

Next upgrade is U-joints. I can't believe what wimpy U-joints are used in these 12-bolts.....1310s....how lame. I've broke one already. I'll be upgrading to 1350s this winter if not sooner. Unfortunately it's an expensive project. Between both yokes and a new driveshaft I'm looking at around $700-800. Worth it for reliability I guess. It's either that or I drive the truck easier......and that's certainly not an option.

bmorrow8

67 goat

You're welcome! That's what these build threads are all about....helping others!

I got really lucky with my driveshaft because the length was perfect as-is. TH350s share the same 27 spline output shaft as T56s so your slip-yoke will work, so it's just the length you need to worry about, which will be determined by where you put the motor front to rear . I have my motor pushed as far back as I could. I think my passenger side valve cover is about 3/4" off the firewall. It's funny you mention the driveshaft though, because I'm upgrading mine either this week or next. I keep breaking the wimpy, factory 1310 u-joints when I use the nitrous, especially if I get a little wheel-hop, so I'm having a driveshaft made with 1350 u-joints. Of course, this requires a new slip-yoke and pinion yoke.

As for the clutch pedal and hydraulics, I don't have a pic at the moment, but it was super easy. I'm using factory pedals and a factory master cylinder. If you're truck was an auto, you'll have to drill holes for the master cylinder, but it's cake because GM dimpled the firewall where the holes are supposed to be! Thanks GM! Then I used the factory T56 hydraulic lines to go from the C10 master cylinder to the late-model GTO T56. It only required one adapter at the master cylinder to step down the size. I forget that adapter size, but google will tell you. Or just take the master cylinder and the hydraulic line to any auto parts store and they'll be able to figure out what adapter. If you have trouble though, let me know.

bmorrow8

67 goat

I'm definitely still running the Speed Engineering headers and I couldn't be happier with them. They fit perfect with the T56 and I've done nothing to them except weld on some V-bands. See post #71 for pics. They fit absolutely perfect in every way imaginable. Again, only differences might be where you put your motor.....mine is very far back.

Message away! I'm happy to help. If you need any additional pics, let me know. The truck will be on the lift soon for a driveshaft upgrade anyway.

67 goat

Added a procharger P1SC this Spring. I bought it used and got a super good deal on it. I also added Caltracs, and a T56 magnum, and a 4" driveshaft.

Truck made 480 RWHP (SAE corrected). I only took a photo of actual HP, hence the 500.

The youtube link to the dyno pull only works in Google Chrome for some reason....well, not Internet Explorer anyway.....haven't tried others.

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

nice! how much boost and what fuel?

67 goat

Thanks! 6 psi, 93 octane pump gas

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

killer work man, i bet there's a ton more in it. especially if you find some ethanol

67 goat

Definitely. I actually have a smaller pulley for it already, but I'm a little paranoid. Long story short, about a month ago, first session on the dyno with the procharger, the driveshaft blew (likely due to too much dynamic pinion angle), which totaled the transmission and most of the exhaust. That was an expensive day. Hence the T56 magnum upgrade and caltracs (among other things).

I took a video of the pinion angle while on the dyno this time, and even with the Catracs it moved more than I expected, so I was very hesitant to add more power. I'm going to drive it as-is for this season, then likely to a 4-link next winter, THEN add boost.

Madman81

Do you have any advise on installing a clutch master on these trucks and how close it mounts to the booster. I'm building an 85. Thanks

67 goat

I used a factory C10 master cylinder and I love it. In my opinion, it's the only way to go. It's a factory part and you know it'll fit perfect, especially if you're running factory pedals (which I would also recommend if you don't already have them). It mounts next the brake booster, towards the outside of the truck, with plenty of clearance.

My setup is:
Factory C10 pedals (make sure you get vacuum brake/hydraulic clutch pedals). You can find them on eBay all day.
Factory C10 master cylinder
LS car slave cylinder
LS car hydraulic lines
1 adapter (reducer) to go from the C10 master outlet to the LS car hydraulic line. I don't remember exactly, but roughly the metric equivalent of 1/4 to 3/16. Maybe M6 to M5? Once you have the parts in hand just go to a parts store and you can figure it out.

Madman81

I could buy everything I need for the system for the price of the factory pedal assy....good lawd they're made of gold er something. With that said ice had my eye on the Willwood clutch pedal assy. The slave cylinder I'm using is the internal setup that's attached to the tranny in the bell housing

67 goat

Worth every penny to me. I love factory stuff because you know it fits perfect. It's always a gamble with aftermarket stuff.

Yes, the slave cylinder you speak of is a concentric slave. Standard issue for T56 cars. I'm assuming you're running a T56?

Madman81

I too would rather use factory but dang that price is killer and then you may send up with something not worth having. Correct, I am running a T56 w/ a LS 408