So I have read in a few threads that the Taurus cooling fan is super efficient (6000 CFM!) Is there a particular year to look for these on?

 

Whichever one fits your car.

They actually come in slightly different shapes and shroud sizes. The motors themselves might be all the same, I've replaced a few, but the shrouds are definitely different

Be sure and grab the relays with the fans. Most pick and pulls won't notice/care. Will save you from trying to buy a high amp aftermarket relay

 

Volvo cooling fans are the same and unbolt from the plastic shroud. I prefer them because it is easy to make your own shroud and mount the fan. I like the Volvo fan relay, but get a spare as they can fail and have done it to me before. I also found Volvo's in the junk yard to be in better shape (including the fans) than any Taurus I could find.

 

I prefer the early 2000's dodge intrepid fans. Dual speed and move tons of air.

 

Don't the Taurus fans unbolt from the shroud? I was planning on making an aluminum shroud to fit my radiator. Has anyone done this?

 

The best part about the Volvo fans are that the wiring for them runs into a small relay block. Unbolt the block from the fender and take it with the fans. All you have to do is give power to the block and fan signals from PCM, and then ground the block.

 

What model and year range volvos.

 

The motor does separate from the shroud. It's held on by 3 screws. You'll be able to access them after you remove the blade from the motor.

 

What year and model Volvo's?

 

You want the fans off the 940 models. From Taurus, the one from the 3.8L V6. Lots of folks have great success with dual fans/shroud from Ford Contours - one of the benefits of a dual fan set up is you don't have a larger single fan motor right in the middle of the engine (more or less) where it can interfere with water pump clearance, if your fore/aft clearance is a challenge.

Control is MUCH easier on the electrical system if you go with a "soft start" pulse width modulated controller as opposed to switches (thermal or otherwise) and relays. Most fans will hit the electrical system with 2.5 to 3 times the continuous amp load for a brief period at start up - so that big 35-40A fan may hit the system like 120A for a fraction of a second. The system doesn't like that much. The PWM controllers eliminate that big hit. Most of the PWM controllers will also allow you to select a temp set point and the controller will only the spin the fans fast enough to hold the system at the set point. Allows a much tighter operating temp delta. My crate LS3 has a 187F t'stat that results in head temps around 197F-198F. If I used the ECU to control fans, my 08 Corvette ecu would turn one on/off at 226F/220F, and the second at something like 236F/229F. Almost a 40F degree spread on operating temps. My PWM controller is set to a 204F control point. So when I'm under cruise - with enough air across the rad to require no fan - the operating temp stays between 195F and 198F depending on ambient temp. When I slow enough to require the fans to engage, the 204F set point holds operating temps in the 200F-204F range depending on ambients. So a 40F degree spread of operating temp becomes 10F degrees. And as a practical matter, my fans rarely run at anything more than 50% of full speed - minimizing parasitic load and wear/tear on the electrical system. FWIW

 

Good info, who makes PWM controllers for fans?

 

I use a Delta Current Control; Derale makes one that uses licensed DCC technology. I've heard that PWM tech is availble in some of the GM computers - no direct experience with that though.

 

All Gen IV ECUs have native PWM fan control. You can use the C6 Corvette fan control module. Tons of info here:

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=40215

This can also be implemented with aftermarket ECUs. I have this working on my Cougar using the Holley Dominator, C6 fan controller and C6 fan. The C6 fan is also a great alternative.

Andrew

 

I spent a lot of time in that thread -- as I understand it, it's not the ECU that does the PWM control of the fan -- you also have to add the fan control module and and a GM A/C pressure control switch if you don't have one. The module does the controlling - it simply uses info that's available through the ECU. IF you have the right ecu, the right fan control module and someone to alter the parameters in the tune -- then you can go this route. I'm all stock (just VATS, 2nd O2 disable - no "tuning") and didn't have the fan module and already had an aftermarket PWM controller. So no brainer for me to go aftermarket.

 

The ECU provides the PWM signal, while the C6 fan controller box does the rest. There have been numerous discussions as to how the C6 fan controller actually works, but the end result is that it changes the speed of the fan...LOL

The aftermarket PWM controller is also a great option for people using the Gen3 electronics or carbs...what's a carb? LOL

Andrew

 

I think my point, Andrew, was simply you need the proper ecu AND the fan controller. And I've yet to be able to find an effective write up as to how it actually controls -- whether it's a soft start with fixed fan rpm settings for various conditions or if it's capable of true variable speed control to maintain a fixed operating temp. I know that's how my aftermarket unit works. Aftermarket is also a great option for the vast majority of swappers who either can't or don't have access to tuners regardless of which Gen electronics they're using.

 

With the Holley it's true variable control to maintain a set temperature. I monitor fan duty cycle on my dash and as soon as temp starts dropping the fan slows as well. I have full control how the fan reacts through software. I believe the GM setup works the same way.

The new GM fans actually have the controller built in. These fans are massive and move a ton of air. GM rates fans in watts. The C6 fan is 400 watts while the new ones (like in the atsv) are 850 watts!

Andrew

 

Or, rounding off - the C6 is 1/2HP and the ATSV is 1HP. Serious fanage.

 

I saw a 2016 Camaro up close, and I'm pretty sure the fan power wires were 8 gauge. Serious looking Yazaki connector.

Andrew

 

Get the hybrid battery pack and the fan will damn near PULL the car down the road....