waid786

For my 1998 Snoma/S10 swap, I bought a 4.8/4L65E which came out of a 2002 Tahoe. I pulled a 411 PCM from a 2002 Silverado.

For now, I am not planning to make any mods and will be installing the 4.8/4L65E bone stock. Later, I will install a bigger cam and have the PCM re-tuned, Passlock removed and 2nd O2 sensor removed.

Since my 1998 Sonoma/S10 has Passlock & BCM and both are already synced, will it send correct signal to the 2002 Silverado 411 PCM to fire the motor without re-flashing the PCM?

Would I need 2002 Silverado/Tahoe 411 PCM and matching BCM and jus re-teach the Passlock?

My truck does not have power windows or locks. Just ABS and Cruise Control. Not sure how the Silverado PCM will work.

Thanks

Waid

waid786

Anyone?

tfi racing

iTrader: (2)

Nobody here really bothers with that nonsense,just get the vats,rear o2's and evap flashed out like everyone else does.

waid786

I will get re-tuned for hotter cam, Passlock removed, 2nd O2 sensor removed and also EGR, EVAP etc...

For now, just want to be able to install motor & trans in stock form and pay for tune just once.

Thanks

Waid

waid786

I updated my original question.

Since my 1998 Sonoma/S10 has Passlock & BCM and both are already synced, will it send correct signal to the 2002 Silverado 411 PCM to fire the motor without re-flashing the PCM?

Would I need 2002 Silverado/Tahoe 411 PCM and matching BCM and jus re-teach the Passlock?

My truck does not have power windows or locks. Just ABS and Cruise Control. Not sure how the Silverado PCM will work.

Thanks

Waid

turbo_bu

As long as the correct wires are connected, I "think" it may work. If not, you might have to do a Passlock re-learn. Give it a try and lets know.

gsjimmy

Same general combo that I have in my '03 S10. Thinking that your gonna end up with the 2 second run problem (VATS). That BCM has 1 VIN and the Tahoe has another. At a minimum, do get the vin matched, rear O2 eliminated and so forth. This will get you up and running.

Other issue will be wiring. Can buy one done with connectors for around $600, or do it yourself. Either way is going to work. My combo was a premade harness and 0411 reflash. Up and running for the last 6 months and about ready to retune after finding all the gremlins in the combo (takes a while).

gsjimmy

With the S10 you need to be sure everything is located correctly on an LS swap. SBC you can get away with shortcuts, not so with an LS swap.

Be sure to get everything mounted up correctly, no driveline binding. This will cause you issues. Exhaust is a biggy, nothing can touch, and rubber mount the pipes. Don't do this and your going to set off your knock sensors (GEN III 4.8/5.3). I'm still running down a vibration in my combo. Sets off a CEL every 25-30 miles.

What manifold or header are you planning on? I did the 1998/99 LS1 F-body manifolds (steel, not cast). Your Tahoe manifolds will not work, gonna hit the frame big time.

Last item is the mounts. Couple ways to do them, GM Clam shell route (2.8 S10 motor mounts) - this will cause sagging in the engine and may mess up your driveline angles. Other way is the CPP Poly mounts and slider engine side swap mounts. I did it both ways, which is how I found out about the sag in the system.

Sagging engine will cause the exhaust to make contact with the upper control arms (setting off the knock sensors and other fun issues).

Oil Pan - be sure to notch the cross member about 1.25 inches in towards center on the firewall side. Another contact spot. Also the truck pan does hang down. The LH8 pan or Holly pan works much better.

waid786

My fist engine swap was done back in 1999. I swapped a 3.4 V6 out of a 1999 Grand Am with 2,000 miles on it in my 1988 Pontiac Fiero. It had same 411 PCM and a BCM. Back then, we did not have the resources that we have today. I ended up going though the Helm's manual page by page and modified the harness to make it run in my Fiero. I had the original lock cylinder so I was able to find the Passlock resistance value and ended fooling the PCM that the transmission was in Neutral Position bcause the 3.4 was bolted to a 5-Speed and ran just fine.

Regarding the wire harness, S10 is easy as it gets since it uses same C2 connector but few pins in different locations. I also have hard to find 8.5 rear end with disk brakes.

Thanks

Waid

gsjimmy

Sounds like you should have success with this. Good luck on the 8.5, look at the 8.8 Ford Explorer (96-2000) rear disc and solid axel. Only have to redrill the axles to Chevy pattern. Over on the S10forum there is a write-up on how to do it. Width is about 1/2 wider than S10.

waid786

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For Headers, I will be getting the eBay S10 LS1 swap headers. I will also be getting the LH8 pan.

Any issues with these eBay headers?

The truck cost me $1,000 with good running 2.2 and 4L60E. I am going to put the motor & trans on Craigslist while it's running in the truck. I hope to get some decent money for it before Christmas and pay for headers and pan! I hope I can $500 for both. I have couple of weeks off during Christmas and will start he swap then.

Waid

waid786

I am fortunate to have pic-a-part close to me. Paid $50 the Blazer 8.5 with disk brakes and also paid $50 for Explorer 8.8 which I have as well sitting in my shed on their 50% off sale! I took another Explorer 8.8 which I narrowed for my 65 Ford Falcon.

Waid

waid786

You guys seen my less than $100 Electric Steering Write up ?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-issues-3.html

waid786

Can you post a link to this?

Waid

slogo

I think he is talking about this. http://www.currentperformance.com/pr...ne-swap-parts/

waid786

I did not realize there are people on eBay performing flash service for cheap and good reviews!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-LS2-LS6...dXsUO~&vxp=mtr

For $45, it's no brainer!

The reflashing covers only the listed items below:
-Removal of the vehicle antitheft security (VATS) option . This will cause a 2 second start and die symptom if not removed.
-Fan 1 and Fan 2 on/off temperatures. Stock 104/100 108/104 will be used unless otherwise specified.
-Add or delete fans
-Rear gear ratio change- especially important if swapping into another vehicle.
-Tire size-especially important- tire size must be listed as 2xx-xx-xx or tire diameter, not just rim size.
-AC delete-removes sensor, relay monitoring, esp. for older vehicles.
-Transmission type, covering even the older THM350, 400, 700R4, 4L60 (non electronic). Must let me know what transmission you are running.
-Remove rpm limiter* see below
-Remove speed limiter* see below
-Remove emission controls (includes removing the rear O2 sensors)** see below
-Change VIN - only necessary if you are swapping a computer into the same vehicle.
-Change tach signal to match your 6 or 8 cylinder tachometer (stock or aftermarket)