PNDL with manual swap
If u need help with this or tuning PM me.
The diagram below is from a 2007 Impala SS (E67 T42 and a 4T65e-hd), so it might not be the same as your 2007 truck. But you should be able to find the same thing for the truck.
The Range switch has 4 wires that will either be open (not connect to anything) or connected to ground. For the Impala application Range Signals A & P are opne, and Range Signals B & C are grounded when the transmission range switch is in Drive.

When you wire it up this way, there are a few more issues to address.
If the ECM/BCM controls the starter curcuit, it won't start in D due to the safety interlock. My swap was in an 88 Fiero, so I just used the Fiero starter circuit and left the ecm out of the starting function entirely. The ecm would then set a code that the engine was starting in D, but that was easy to turn off with HP Tuners.
However, HP Tuners had very little access to turn off transmission codes with the LS4 (FWD) application, so I worked to mimic several signals to avoid setting codes I could not eliminate.
- Shift Solenoids and TCC. Wired up resistors (1K ohm I think) to all the shift solenoids and TCC so they would see a load and not set a code as well.
- Transmission temp, looked up the resistor values and added a resistor to show 180 degrees.
- The manual transmission VSS was wired up to the T42 just like the auto one.
The only code I couldn't eliminate (or turn off with HP Tuners) was the input shaft speed sensor (not connected, not replicated) code. A a guy with tunercat software was able to disable that code.
Once you get the engine running and the transmission not setting codes, then you need to adjust your airflow and spark tables to avoid stalling when you press the clutch (auto calibrations don't use a clutch pedal switch) or coast to a stop with the clutch pedal pressed.
As you can see there is a fair amount of work to run a manual with an auto calibration. If your application allows segment swaps and you can get the ecm setup for a manual transmission, I would go that route.
Unfortunately I threw a belt, overheated the engine, and blew a head gasket, so tuning is put on hold while I fix the head gaskets
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When I scan the car you can watch the transmission go through the motions of 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear (auto) while I am rowing the gears 1-6 with the manual.
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Could it have the 4k rpm limiter bc it thinks its still in park? Under the engine fuel tab u can move the limiter to around 6k. See if this helps.

Have a CEL on but it doesn’t seem to be affecting anything, going to finish hooking up the resistors per the chart and have my guy look at the tune again once I get everything cleaned up.
When you take it back to your tuner, you might want to go ahead and disable every auto transmission code and diagnostic check as well as all torque limitations. Once all the transmission codes are turned off, you probably don't need any of the resistors for the shift solenoids or TCC.
The only non-transmission related code should be starting in D vs. P/N, but it is easy to turn off as well.
I did some testing with some relays on the range switches to make the ecm see P/N when the clutch pedal was pressed as well as when the shifter was placed in reverse, but the ecm didn't like it and disabled gas pedal function. After that I didn't explore any other options and just turned off the starting code.
Last edited by fieroguru; Jan 28, 2018 at 09:59 AM.

Have a CEL on but it doesn’t seem to be affecting anything, going to finish hooking up the resistors per the chart and have my guy look at the tune again once I get everything cleaned up.
I wired up the "brake switch" to a power source today, thinking that might been the problem (without it, the ECM would think the brakes are always on). But, no change
The details are included in the speadsheet I attached a few posts ago.
I drove to town (5 miles) and on the way back I gave it some more gas and no 4000 rpm wall! I stopped along the way and did a 1-2 pull up to about 5600 rpms (runs pretty good
) red pointer is maxSo, I wonder if there is some hardwired rpm limit based on coolant temperature too
I drove to town (5 miles) and on the way back I gave it some more gas and no 4000 rpm wall! I stopped along the way and did a 1-2 pull up to about 5600 rpms (runs pretty good
) red pointer is maxSo, I wonder if there is some hardwired rpm limit based on coolant temperature too





