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Long tube headers will never be legal on converter-equipped vehicles as they occupy the space the converters must occupy. And converters can't be moved very far from their OEM location.
The first pic looks like a 7.625" rear. Did you replace the rear with an 8.5?
Jay
yes we decided to replace the rear and go with the 8.5. You can see the tubes bump up in size near the center section that gives away it's an 8.5 just hard to tell in the first pics since it's so dirty.
I was leaning toward an 8.5 in my S10 because I didn't want to have to redrill the axles and move the spring pads to do an Explorer rear, but they're SOOO much easier to find. I'm also told they're more reliable because the G80 limited slip generally sucks. lol
I was leaning toward an 8.5 in my S10 because I didn't want to have to redrill the axles and move the spring pads to do an Explorer rear, but they're SOOO much easier to find. I'm also told they're more reliable because the G80 limited slip generally sucks. lol
Jay
we went with Richmond 3:73 gears, Yukon 30 spline axles, and a tru-trac. Hopefully it will hold up to some drag strip passes.
Sure it will be fine, it's not like you're doing a big single turbo build with 1000rwhp. lol (And neither am I.)
The Explorer rear end swap is so common/popular, I'm amazed someone isn't selling sets of short side axles already drilled for the Chevy bolt pattern.
Not as cheap as redrilling them yourself, but I'd feel better about buying them from a reputable manufacturer than doing it myself by drilling them out using a wheel adapter or something.
If someone did a kit with the adapter u-joint and a pair of axles (and maybe bearings and gaskets) I bet they'd sell a ton of them! (hint, hint, lol)
Quick update on where I'm at now on building the truck. Just got the new Hooker Blackheart steering shaft installed so there's a couple pics of both 1st and 2nd Gen steering shafts that will be available. As soon as they become available I will post in this thread with part numbers.
Hopefully by the weekend I'll dig deep into installing the Holley EFI system. Wiring and EFI are my favorite part of the build so I will go step by step on the EFI install to show just how easy it is to use Holley EFI.
Top steering shaft is for 2nd Gen trucks bottom is for 1st Gen trucks
1st Gen steering shaft installed
550-611 Holley Terminator EFI kit for 58X LS engines with DBW
we went with Richmond 3:73 gears, Yukon 30 spline axles, and a tru-trac. Hopefully it will hold up to some drag strip passes.
This rear end with the upgrades you have made, will hold ~800 without any issue. I know of a few guys personally who have done it. I sold one of the guys the rear end who was running in the mid 8's and only changed because he knew he was going to shoot for more.
That Holley is a sweet little setup. The only downside to that vs the Dominator as you probably know are the I/O's.
This rear end with the upgrades you have made, will hold ~800 without any issue. I know of a few guys personally who have done it. I sold one of the guys the rear end who was running in the mid 8's and only changed because he knew he was going to shoot for more.
That Holley is a sweet little setup. The only downside to that vs the Dominator as you probably know are the I/O's.
That's good news to hear on the rearend! Can you explain your last comment please?
This rear end with the upgrades you have made, will hold ~800 without any issue. I know of a few guys personally who have done it. I sold one of the guys the rear end who was running in the mid 8's and only changed because he knew he was going to shoot for more.
That Holley is a sweet little setup. The only downside to that vs the Dominator as you probably know are the I/O's.
This Holley Terminator kit actually has the Dominator ECU due to us running DBW. Any Terminator kit that has trans control or DBW will be a Dominator ECU. The HP ECU has a lot less I/O's than the Dominator as you were probably talking about, if running a basic street/strip car the HP ECU is great, no need for all those extra I/O's. Here's a breakdown of differences between the HP and Dominator ECU.
- HP
2 high side (+12v) PWM or switched outputs 2 low side (ground) PWM or switched outputs 4 Multi-inputs
- Dominator
20 high side (+12v) PWM or switched outputs 16 how side (ground) PWM or switched outputs 6 speed inputs (magnetic or hall effect) 30 0-5v sensor inputs 13 Multi-inputs - The Dominator has a “configuration input selection” pin that allows up to 4 calibrations to be selected with a key switch.
Wide Band Oxygen Sensor Inputs
- HP – One input
- Dominator – Two inputs
- The Dominator can control certain Drive by Wire throttle body applications, the HP does not.
- The Dominator can control certain Electronic Transmissions, the HP does not.
-Both systems use the same harness and could be upgraded at anytime
-No HP restrictions on either ECU
since we are running DBW this kit comes with the Dominator ECU
LS3 engine harness
main power harness plugs straight in the ECU and must connect straight to the battery to give the ECU power
every connection is labeled on the engine harness
5-loose wires
red/white= key switched hot (must be used)
black= clean ground (must be used)
blue/white= tach signal (do not have to use)
green= fuel pump (do not have to use)
red=12V source (must be used)
so a total of 5 wires counting the main ECU power must be hooked up in order for the system to operate
I needed to move the CTS to the right rear instead of the left front which means i need the wires to be longer. The photo shows how I reccommed to splice the wires if adding length to the wires. I prefer using connectors with heat shrink/glue over solder, solder on a small wire like 20-22ga will break with movement and vibration.
completed joint
added heat wrap due to the wires being near the header
Factory harness being modified for a cleaner fit
Getting rid of all that 2.8V6 wiring. Hope the headlights still work!
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