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Brakes moving along slowly and annoyingly. I’m terrible at it but I’ll get it.
Here’s a few other updates:
Redid fittings on filter/regulator. No more plastic retainers in my fuel system. Also rigged this aeromotive bracket to fit the stock vette filter. I didn’t like the idea of a single screw holding the thing to the frame. Looks janky not centered but it’s solid as **** now.
Driveshaft finally in with a hair over 1” of slip. Plenty of floor clearance which was a concern.
Mystery of the long ds solved. On top of counterbored and full spline, a 4l80 has 2 different length slip yokes. The longer one is the truck yoke. It’s 1 5/8” longer, full spline and has 1350 joints from the factory. Thought this might help someone else from a headache.
Edit this pic is off the net. I think the short one in this pic is for a 400. That long one is definitely like mine though. Tons of spline engagement. The truck yoke is a nice piece if keeping cost down.
Viking coil overs installed. I think the springs may be too tall or stiff, I’ll find out when it’s on the ground. . We’ll see.
The Chinese spindles I didn’t even use. Was able to use the original drum spindles but had to drill steering arm holes from 7/16 to 1/2”. Hardened steel from the 60’s is no joke! Drill bit used two batteries and didn’t even go in half way, ended up using an automotive reamer that still took 10-15 mins s hole.
Hub/brake/studs cut blah blah all on. Need about a 1/4” spacer to clear brakes with these wheels. Only drivers side done right now, doing passenger side tomorrow.
Called trans guy, he’s coming out Monday to take a look at it, fix it and help me stab it back in.
I would definitely not keep that fuel pressure gauge attached to the fuel rail.
I used to have a sending unit for a fuel pressure gauge hooked up the same way. Eventually that little fitting fatigued and started leaking. Lucky for me, I spotted the issue when I was doing a quick inspection before a long road trip. Had I not found that leak, I could have easily burned my GTO to the ground.
Dammit there’s always something. Thanks for the heads up.
I would hate to have anything bad happen to a beautiful car. If you want to keep a fuel pressure gauge under the hood, just get a -4 AN hose and mount the gauge remotely. As long as there is no significant weight hanging off that little nipple on the rail, you should be OK.
BTW, I used to live in West Chicago...still have family and a lot of friends in the western suburbs.
Put the passenger side hub/rotor/coil overs on Friday night. Brake lines are all bent and in place. Bled everything and that job is done. If trans guy calls, I’m possibly pulling that today and having him fix it.
The 1/4” spacer was on the money to clear front calipers. I can spin again.
Was able to use my original rear flex hose and bracket with a little bending.
Here’s the front T and stainless line going to front caliper.
Moved under its own power today. Great ****** feeling. Car sits 2” lower in back compared to last year. I’m guessing trans weight (power glide vs 4l80). Front tires rub, getting skinnier ones but went around the block and it was awesome. Needs a tune bad.
Aaaand my wix vette filter decided to peg my fuel pressure at 100psi. Took the return line off regulator, just cranked the engine a couple seconds and still got almost 80psi so I don’t think something’s obstructing the return line.
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